Newcomer question about track laying

[andyste1]

Hi, I’m planning my first layout (N scale) and have a question: if I was to lay my track, ballast, etc, then in the future I decide to upgrade the points to powered ones, is it something that can be retrofitted or would it involve lifting the track to install?

 

In an ideal world i realise it is easier to install from the word go, but I’m trying to keep initial costs down. However I’m worried about the disruption involved if i wanted to add such a feature in the future.

 

If I can sneak in a second, similar question: how easy is it to start with DC control and upgrade to DCC in the future?

[imt]

Just as an example (I am not sure what other manufacturers do) DCC Concepts Cobalt point motors (there are analogue and DCC versions) have a template which you can use to pre-drill pilot holes etc.  I used it and was able to retro-fit some motors later.  I think your idea is perfectly feasible.  Another route is to simply drill a hole through the baseboard under the point tie bar and fit a servo later.  The more careful preparation the better in the end.  Fitting anything under baseboards after they have track and scenery on them can result in a very sore neck and back, and damage to the layout.  Mine was dismantle-able so I was able to split up the boards and put them on their sides clamped to a workbench - minimal damage and I could see what I was doing!

 

There is little difference between DC and DCC wiring.  Wire droppers to every length of track, not limited to those you want as isolating sections in DC, then you can just link it all up to a power bus.  With forethought you could design your DC track feeds such that they fed the droppers too, then it becomes even easier.  Again, plan in advance and make sure that you can get underneath/extract baseboards from the whole etc. so you can do things later.

[kevinlms]

 

In an ideal world i realise it is easier to install from the word go, but I’m trying to keep initial costs down. However I’m worried about the disruption involved if i wanted to add such a feature in the future.

 

Why not buy yourself a single point motor of choice and use it as a template, so you have cutouts for them in the correct location already?

 

As has already been suggested, make your baseboards so they can be turned on their sides. Its MUCH easier to fit them, without the air turning blue!

[The Johnster]

And paint the underneath white; this'll also make work there much easier to see.

[john new]

And paint the underneath white; this'll also make work there much easier to see.

Good tip for any scale, thanks.

[imt]

If you have not seen this before - go to https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html for solid advice on wiring.  I does NOT need to be complicated, but (as with everything in life) a bit of careful planning first can avoid a lot of heartache later.  If you need/want to test ideas out first, then try to build a small shunting layout or similar to try out ideas and check that they will work. If you have the space, a bit of a "roundy roundy" with some sidings may help to get the ideas straight.

[DCB]

Wiring for DC with a number of sections will save hours of wasted time fault finding compared to just wiring everything permanently DCC style.

I don't see any need for droppers to every piece of track if you have proper overload protection,  I would suggest 1/2 amp or 1 amp polyswitches (Cheap like 25 p each auto resetting overload protection) in the feeds.  Most folk don't bother, they have a partial short, fry some fishplates and decide to fit droppers every 18" and keep shoving in 3 to 6 amps.    If you start DC planning an upgrade get a DCC controller and feed the layout through a DCC decoder, saves buying two different controllers.