Painting Network Southeast livery

[Dan Griffin]

Hi,

 

Can anyone point me to a tutorial about painting NSE livery?

 

Has anyone used the transfers that are available from Fox?

 

I am looking at repainting a Lime 117 and a Hornby VEP into this livery.

 

Thanks

[Guest teacupteacup]

Hi,

 

Can anyone point me to a tutorial about painting NSE livery?

 

Has anyone used the transfers that are available from Fox?

 

I am looking at repainting a Lime 117 and a Hornby VEP into this livery.

 

Thanks

I dont think there is a tutorial as such but I always paint light to dark.  For NSE I'd start off with a white primer and go from there.  

 

Fox transfers livery elements are great - I believe they are matched to Railmatch enamel paints.

 

Take it slow, allow plenty of time to dry between coats and colours.  Seal the paint with gloss varnish before applying the decals, then gloss varnish again before your final varnish finish

[johnb]

I used Fox transfers on a Lima 117 that I redid into NSE some years ago now. They went on well and looked pretty good. Sorry but can't give a photo as I've since sold it on.

 

John

[sub39h]

[The Fatadder]

Not the easiest livery to spray, and lots of masking to do, but looks very good when it’s done.

 

I work with a white primer as a start point, then spray the lower sides white. I prefer to work with the white as a base coat so mask everywhere else and spray the blue, red and yellow (lots of drying and a good clean between coats) each time spraying onto a white base. Finally I do the grey (which covers well enough to be sprayed over colour meaning I won’t usually mask the white off on the roof while spraying the blue)

 

Once all that is finished, adding the OHLE line is the hardest part, I don’t get on with the transfer and really need to learn to use a lining pen.

 

Transfers are the last to go on, my preference is Railtec given they do packs with numbers and logos, but Fox are equally good. Nameplates are always from Shawplan Extreme Etchings for the best quality

 

 

I think it looks a lot better using paint than transfers for the stripes.

[Guest teacupteacup]

Thats a great video which shows the most important part of any repaint - preparation for priming, and preparation for decalling

 

I use Dettol (original brown formula) for stripping paint, a good scrub after all the paint is off is needed though.

 

For varnishing I've started using Windsor & Newton Galleria acrylic varnishes, the spray on great, have great coverage and dont smell!  They do take a while to dry fully though

 

Like yourself I prefer using Precision Paints, I do think they have a much better match to the prototype colours

 

Using the transfers to achieve the original curved upswepts on NSE isnt a bad idea, but getting them to sit over raised detail needs a lot of care.  Personally I'd spray them

Edited October 20, 2018 by teacupteacup

[john new]

Thats a great video which shows the most important part of any repaint - preparation for priming, and preparation for decalling

 

I use Dettol (original brown formula) for stripping paint, a good scrub after all the paint is off is needed though.

 

For varnishing I've started using Windsor & Newton Galleria acrylic varnishes, the spray on great, have great coverage and dont smell!  They do take a while to dry fully though

 

Like yourself I prefer using Precision Paints, I do think they have a much better match to the prototype colours

 

Using the transfers to achieve the original curved upswepts on NSE isnt a bad idea, but getting them to sit over raised detail needs a lot of care.  Personally I'd spray them

Dettol is a paint strip method I've only recently seen mentioned, and have not yet tried, so a couple of newbie type questions -

 

1) What is the difference to look for when buying to ensure it is the old formulae Dettol please. (A photo of the correct bottle would help). 

2)  If I can't find any of the right type of Dettol what else is good for stripping plastic models?

 

I ask as this is a method that does NOT eat plastics. It is a couple of plastic loco' bodies that I now need to strip back/respray and previously I've only ever stripped die-casts (cars/H Dublo) and with Polystripper or Nitromores which obviously you don't put anywhere near plastics.

 

 

Thank you in advance for any answers posted.

Edited November 10, 2018 by john new

[sub39h]

Dettol is a paint strip method I've only recently seen mentioned, and have not yet tried, so a couple of newbie type questions -

 

1) What is the difference to look for when buying to ensure it is the old formulae Dettol please. (A photo of the correct bottle would help).

2) If I can't find any of the right type of Dettol what else is good for stripping plastic models?

 

I ask as this is a method that does NOT eat plastics. It is a couple of plastic loco' bodies that I now need to strip back/respray and previously I've only ever stripped die-casts (cars/H Dublo) and with Polystripper or Nitromores which obviously you don't put anywhere near plastics.

 

 

Thank you in advance for any answers posted.

I believe it is the isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in the Dettol that strips the paint. No other cheapo disinfectant has it in I don’t think. You’re better off buying IPA neat off eBay etc I think.

[john new]

I believe it is the isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in the Dettol that strips the paint. No other cheapo disinfectant has it in I don’t think. You’re better off buying IPA neat off eBay etc I think.

Just seen where the Brown ref comes from - see https://www.dettol.co.uk/products/  

[piranha230]

Yes buy the ipa from Ebay and add 10% tap water to it, this activates the stripping of the paint, it is very cheap to buy and you will be left with a fully stripped clean plastic bodyshell with no damage, I used Superstrip from Phoenix precision and it damaged some bodyshells.