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Gladiator Jersey Lily C4/C5


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My next build will be another Gladiator kit. This is the ex-GCR LNER C4 or possibly the C5. The confusion comes because if possible this will be the C5 version. The C5 was a 3 cylinder compound version of the 2 cylinder simple C4.  Gladiator can provide an extra etch to simulate the front cover, but there are no instructions (yet) so it isn't advertised. If we can find a set of plates for this build it will be a C5.

 

Like all of the Gladiator GCR locos, there are many bits in the box, with options to cover the GCR and LNER/BR eras. This loco will be resplendent in GCR livery.

 

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I have already removed a couple of bits from the etches to emboss the rivets.

 

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I am not sure if I am going to start with the tender or with the loco this time. I am sure that it is going to take longer than the J6!

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I will also follow this build.  Like Shez I have an enthusiasm for the NB and recently purchase a kit to build a NB Atlantic in O gauge.  Looking at the layout of castings in the first post I think the kit I purchased is more of a scratch building aid.  These Atlantics must have made heads really turn in the 1900s with their large belpaire boilers and decent cabs.  In photos of the time they look massive and must have been real publicity gifts to these companies.  They certainly worked for the NB by putting the Aberdonian on the public map.  Indeed I suppose the Gresley 2-8-2s were a later response to sharp timings over a difficult route.

The GCR Atlantics were machines of beauty. I am sure this model when built and liveried in the GCR express livery will caputure the perfection of the design. I will be interested to see how an expert builder balances the loco and deals with the bogie and trailing wheel clearances. The instructions in my kit rather gloss over the problem.

Edited by M Wright
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The toss of the coin resulted in the tender being started first. No issues at all so far.

 

I put pins in the brake beams to locate the pull rods.

 

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The brakeblocks were opened out with a piercing saw to accept the hangers and again pinned with a wire and soldered at teh rear.

 

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All went together as it should. The sandpipes will be cut to length later.

 

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The loco frame etches make provision for cut-outs above the bogie wheels to give clearance. I am not expecting any significant problems with balancing.

 

Now for the tender body.

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Would I be right in thinking that you've put springing on the central wheel bearings to allow for up and down movement?

 

If so, it would be helpful indeeed to know exactly what you've done.

 

Many thanks,

 

John.

John, they are not sprung as such (but they might become so).

 

The kit designer made provision for vertical movement of the centre axle by incorporating a half-etched guide allowing material to be removed easily to permit up and down freedom. The design uses a piece of wire soldered into the bearings (I drill them first) that stops the bearings from rotating in the frames. The design also allows for a 6BA screw to be fitted into the centre spacer about which the middle axle will rock. I haven't fitted this yet.

 

I have in previous builds included coil springs around the vertical wire, but it is difficult to get the springing correct: too stiff and the chassis will rock about the centre wheels. Too soft and no benefit. So I may yet change to the Ken Mason method that he also uses for the centre axle of locos. Springing provided by horizontal piano wire (or similar) bearing on the top of the centre bearings and again located in a hole in the top of the bearing to stop it rotating.

 

I will try to remember to take some more photos to show the current state of play.

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Here are a couple of shots that may show the centre bearing more clearly.

 

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Next the valances were added to the bottom plate with the buffer beam and drag beam to form the tender base.

 

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The flare section was sweated to teh rear panel, formed to shape and then added to the bottom plate with the rear tank support.

 

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I have been working on the tender sides, top and coal space. More later.

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Hope you had a good Christmas.

 

Nice to see you back at the bench again. Looking forward to seeing this one progress.

 

I've got to be careful with the F1 it's progressing to well, if I'm not careful the only thing I'll be doing in 2019 is painting.

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Hope you had a good Christmas.

 

Nice to see you back at the bench again. Looking forward to seeing this one progress.

 

I've got to be careful with the F1 it's progressing to well, if I'm not careful the only thing I'll be doing in 2019 is painting.

Working Christmas Day: attending the inauguration ceremony of the Taoyun mayor......

 

Hope yours was better!

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A Happy New Year to you all!

 

Here are the missing pictures from yesterday.

 

After the back had been fitted, I fixed the flares to the sides and rolled them to shape. It took me a couple of goes to get the initial attachment correct: no real issues, I just wanted to be sure they were correct. The sides were then added to the base and fixed to the rear plate. I ensured that there was a good fillet of solder along all of the joints.

 

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The coal hopper was formed to shape. The discolouration is because I took the photo after I had fitted it to the top plate and, being unhappy with the fit, used the gas hob to get it off.

 

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The tank top and front were then formed. It is interesting that the designer included the all-but-invisible tool box.

 

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The coal hopper was then added for the second time. It is important to get the alignment correct here or you may end up with the bulkhead not being vertical. Just a little filing of the hopper front was required to get it correct.

 

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The tank top/bulkhead was then fitted. I also added the third nut to the front. The instructions are not quite clear as they make provision for two varieties of tender frame, either of which might be supplied and have slightly different locations.

 

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Next up was the front coal plate, front and rear scoop mechanism covers and rear coal plate. I had to remove a lot of material form the bottom of the rear coal plate.

 

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I then added the side plates. Still have to add some supporting ribs.

 

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The toolbox cover has been added, but requires the handles and stops. I'll use small rivets for these rather than the wire suggested in the instructions. (See yesterday's photos).

 

Right, back to the bench..............

 

 

 

 

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So here is the bulkhead with the door stops and handles added.

 

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And the strengthening ribs and lifting eyes added.

 

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Next were the frames and steps:

 

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Then the the fall plate.

 

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That completes most of the 'very hot' work, so I'll put away the 80W iron and get out the 40W and 'whitemetal' irons for the next soldering jobs.

Edited by david.hill64
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  • 2 weeks later...

Life is a bit hectic at present, so not much time for modelling and less for posting.

 

The tender is nearly complete: I have broken a tender axlebox spring so I'll need to pick up a replacement next week when I am home for the Bristol show.

 

I have now started on the loco chassis:pictures to follow.

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Looks good David. I always liked the Brighton Atlantics. Shame they never ran to the south west. Might have to find an excuse to build one.

At teh risk of being accused of blatant advertising, I have to say that the Gladiator H2 goes together very well and I am sure that the H1 kits will be the same.

 

It's interesting to see how the different kit designers have approached how to do the rear pony truck. Peter Dobson designed the H1/2 kits with a conventional truck: David Andrews has made this C4 akin to a long wheel base 0-6-0 with the rear wheels a different diameter.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I started one of these ages ago and it hasn't been touched for a year or more.

 

I looked at building it as a C5 so I could have a "namer" but there is at least one subtle difference, which made me decide to stick to a C4.

 

It is the position of the slide bars on the outside cylinders, relative to the footplate.

 

I haven't checked to see exactly which bit is different but on the C5 the top slidebar is almost hidden from view but on the C4 it is clearly visible.

 

It is probably that the outside cylinders are mounted slightly higher on the compound. It is easy to miss but worth checking out before going ahead.

 

There was a bit of discussion about the tender rear of GCR locos on the thread about the new 4mm Valour kit but the inside of the tender should look like the attached. The box for the scoop gear next to the coal divider plate is inset. That is why the handle is offset. The handle should be in the centre of the box.

 

I hope that you don't mind me pointing such things out. It wasn't easy to find out what it should look like and now that I know, it seemed right to share the information.

Butler Henderson 04052008 010.jpg

 

The photo is the self trimming tender attached to Butler henderson but the standard 4,000 gallon tenders were the same. 

Edited by t-b-g
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12 hours ago, Deano747 said:

Hi David

 

I thoroughly enjoy following your builds.

It's all very quiet on here! Hope all is well with Mr and Mrs Gladiator?!

 

Regards, Deano.

Haven't been able to get to the bench for a couple of weeks. I went home for the Bristol show and picked up a dreadful cold. Since getting back to Taiwan I've been sent on a business trip to Australia (there are much worse places to be) so no progress. Back to the bench next week, hopefully with supercharged mojo.

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4 hours ago, t-b-g said:

I started one of these ages ago and it hasn't been touched for a year or more.

 

I looked at building it as a C5 so I could have a "namer" but there is at least one subtle difference, which made me decide to stick to a C4.

 

It is the position of the slide bars on the outside cylinders, relative to the footplate.

 

I haven't checked to see exactly which bit is different but on the C5 the top slidebar is almost hidden from view but on the C4 it is clearly visible.

 

It is probably that the outside cylinders are mounted slightly higher on the compound. It is easy to miss but worth checking out before going ahead.

 

There was a bit of discussion about the tender rear of GCR locos on the thread about the new 4mm Valour kit but the inside of the tender should look like the attached. The box for the scoop gear next to the coal divider plate is inset. That is why the handle is offset. The handle should be in the centre of the box.

 

I hope that you don't mind me pointing such things out. It wasn't easy to find out what it should look like and now that I know, it seemed right to share the information.

Butler Henderson 04052008 010.jpg

 

The photo is the self trimming tender attached to Butler henderson but the standard 4,000 gallon tenders were the same. 

Excellent points. I have many photos of the C5's and am still weighing up whether I can do this or not. The tender photo is very interesting. I'll try to find the discussion on the 4mm version.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, first let's see if I can upload some photos.

 

Reminds me of a Morecombe and Wise sketch with Andre Previn: all the right photos, but not necessarily in the right order.........

 

For various reasons I have decided to move onto the loco body. The main reason is to get clarity about cylinder location if this is to be a C5.

 

The running plate is in three sections which are attached to the valences, starting with the centre section. I found the front section to be slightly long, so it was cut back. Buffer beam, drag beam, drag beam overlay were added next.

 

The splasher sides are part of the running plate centre section etch and have to be bent up. I scored the fold lines first and then supported the outside of the running plate with some brass strip in a hold and fold to make the bends.

 

The splasher tops were then annealed and added.

 

A few short sentences for a few hours work...........

 

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Work has gotten in the way this week, but with the weekend here some progress.

 

Cab formed and added:

 

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Followed by the firebox:

 

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The boiler and smokebox assembly next:

 

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I have to confess to doing something really stupid, and to make it worse it was the same error that I did with the J6: I soldered the smokebox wrapper around the smokebox instead of forming the lower shape. So a couple of hours work was undone on the gas hob and then redone.

 

Next fitted to the footplate. Then add the frame extensions and valve chest cover.

 

 

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The cruel lens shows some gaps to be filled. But now looks like a engine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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