Rail Joiners for Dublo 3 Rail

[Wolseley]

I will soon start laying track on my layout and, as would be expected given the age of my equipment, there are a significant number of pieces of track (Hornby Dublo 3 rail) that have damaged rail joiners. Although most of them can probably be bent back into shape, doing so might compromise their ability to conduct electricity efficiently and, of course, some are pretty much beyond repair.

 

Does anyone know if one of the currently available makes would be a suitable replacement?

 

My first thought was Peco code 100 rail joiners, because they look pretty much the same and have the benefit of being freely available.  I do recall, however, reading somewhere that Dublo track is something like code 107 or 110, so maybe the Peco rail joiners might be rather hard to fit and even harder to take off.

 

My other thought was rail joiners intended for Marklin K-track, although I have no idea how easy it is to get hold of them.  Michael Foster, in his history of Hornby Dublo, comments that Dublo 3 rail track can join up to Marklin track, although the base of the Marklin track is slightly higher than the Dublo.  I also noticed comments on a Marklin based forum about K-track being code 108.  I would assume that this means that Marklin rail joiners would fit better than Peco.

 

Does anyone have some thoughts on this, or any other suggestions?

Edited January 8, 2019 by Wolseley

[Golden Fleece 30]

I have some old Marklin 3 rail track that fits nicely to Dublo but no idea on the newer ones. With the stud contact I inverted it to make a continous rail as Dublo pick up shoes make to much noise on studs.

 

If I remember I tried Peco without success as too narrow for Dublo rail.

 

Garry

[Il Grifone]

Dublo 3 rail track is code 125 IIRC (I'll measure some and try and find some Märklin 3 rail and measure that too. The Märklin base is quite a lot higher than Dublo.) I believe the 2 rail is code 110. (It is higher than code 100 and stock bumps on a joint.)

 

The joiners are brass (nickel plated on later track) and rather delicate. I always check them before purchase, though I have a stock of scrap curves to supply spares. (These were intended to provide rail for a fiddle yard - another project in the 'to do' pile! The joiners are always slack, so I carefully lever them out with a screwdriver underneath and restraighten the base if necessary. I then tighten the joiner, set the tab at a fraction beyond 90° and slide it back in. As far as I know , there are no other joiners that fit, as the rail base is quite wide and the rail profile is a Hornby invention. At least it isn't folded tinplate like some of their competitors! It should be possible to make replacement joiners from brass sheet, but as of yet I haven't needed to try. The common track costs 50p a piece at the toy fair I visit every couple of months, so I can afford to be choosey - no bits that have been trodden on, painted green along the sides (why?   ), missing terminal nuts, damaged joiners etc. It's probably dearer in Australia though?

[sagaguy]

Keep an eye out for rusty or damaged track,it can be aquired cheaply & pinch the joiners & dump the rest.They can be reshaped with a pair of flat nose pliers after removing from the rail.

 

                                             Ray.

[john new]

I think when I was using my HD regularly all I did was slightly open up the standard PECO code 100 ones using a small flat blade screwdriver, then force them on with open nose pliers. The other rail then becomes a force fit too. Missing fishplates was never an issue I had a problem overcoming. Nickel silver is soft and the size difference minimal.

Edited January 8, 2019 by john new

[Wolseley]

My comment about Dublo track possibly being something like code 107 or 110 was based on a recollection of something I read, I cannot remember where, about two years ago.  It seems that my memory may be faulty or, if it is not, the information I read back then was faulty.  I stand corrected.

 

It sounds like Marklin track joiners, if suitable, would have to be for a long deleted range of track, which would probably be just as hard, if not harder, to get than Dublo.

 

Used track, if you can find it here these days, is a good bit more than 50p a piece.  There used to be a very good (although not cheap) second-hand model railway shop not too far away (Train Trader at Pymble) where I did make quite a few purchases, including a quantity of track, but unfortunately they closed down a couple of years ago.  The only other source within reach of Sydney that I am aware of is Trains, Planes and Automobiles at Mt Victoria in the Blue Mountains, however they are open for irregular hours and are a 90 minute drive away - I have dealt with them by mail order a couple of times, but the first time the track I ordered (thankfully only two pieces) was not in very good condition (one was rusty and the other had green paint all down one side) and my second order never arrived, with a follow up email from me going unanswered.  Needless to say, I am not dealing with them again.

 

Just about the only source for track for me now (although I only need a few half and quarter straights) is either eBay or John Winkley.  I know in the latter case that means ordering from the UK, but his prices are fair, postage reasonable (second only to Hattons) and delivery prompt.

 

I have just finished a census of my track and it looks like I may not have any missing rail joiners, thanks to those I recovered from poor quality binned track from bulk buys, so I may just have to contend with bent ones.  I can see a bit of work with needle nose pliers coming up.  The other thing is that, although I do not really want to remove good rail joiners from perfectly good track, a count of what I have on hand shows me that I have 24 too many standard curves, and 29 too many full straights, so if I can't bend a damaged rail joiner back into shape, maybe I'll just swap it with another one.

[peach james]

How about Peter Scrimshaw here in Canada ?  Full curves are 0.50/each...

 

Shipping would be the only downside...but he might be willing to scrap the track for the fishplates for a nominal amount.  

 

http://www.hornbydubloemporium.com/default.html

 

I've known him for >30 years now !  (all of a sudden, I feel OLD, as I met him when I was about 12...)

 

James

[john new]

How about Peter Scrimshaw here in Canada ? Full curves are 0.50/each...

 

Shipping would be the only downside...but he might be willing to scrap the track for the fishplates for a nominal amount.

 

http://www.hornbydubloemporium.com/default.html

 

I've known him for >30 years now ! (all of a sudden, I feel OLD, as I met him when I was about 12...)

 

James

A general observation on HD Imports. There may still be a weird tax added here by U.K. customs on HD imports from overseas as tax wasn't paid domestically when they were exported originally. Has stopped me buying locos in the past for re-import but obviously will be only be a small £ value on track even if HMRC spot what it is. Edited January 9, 2019 by john new

[Il Grifone]

A general observation on HD Imports. There may still be a weird tax added here by U.K. customs on HD imports from overseas as tax wasn't paid domestically when they were exported originally. Has stopped me buying locos in the past for re-import but obviously will be only be a small £ value on track even if HMRC spot what it is.

 

I think imports to the UK are exempt import duty up to quite a reasonable figure, but fall foul of VAT above £18. This is then charged at 20% plus the Post Office's charge of £8 for the privilege of collecting it. Personal property and gifts are exempt but the subject is rather complex and carries severe penalties for evasion. (Not paying your taxes is the most serious crime you can commit....   )

[john new]

I think imports to the UK are exempt import duty up to quite a reasonable figure, but fall foul of VAT above £18. This is then charged at 20% plus the Post Office's charge of £8 for the privilege of collecting it. Personal property and gifts are exempt but the subject is rather complex and carries severe penalties for evasion. (Not paying your taxes is the most serious crime you can commit.... )

That makes sense with my memory, it was an export Canadian livery Atholl I was after at the time but didn't buy. At the time I could have afforded the loco but (from memory) the importation taxes and carriage would have roughly doubled the cost. Sadly I never did get one of them. A fair while back now so the rules may well have changed.

 

An unrelated problem with ex-USA imported 2nd hand goods, a rare book described as in good condition by vendor which arrived with the both the leather covers ripped off, has soured me from such dealings. I suspect the covers possibly went during customs checks but the repairs cost me roughly what I'd bought it for to have it professionally rebound! Problem with rarities is that when you've spent a year or two tracking a copy down you don't send it back.

Edited January 10, 2019 by john new

[brianusa]

Importing to the UK is one of my favourite moans.  One of my old Hornby trains needed work so I sent it back to one of the famous repairers but they wouldn't release it until said customs and VAT charges and whatever else had to be paid. Bear in mind that this was to be returned to me on completion of the repair and so not staying in the UK.  So I was duly informed and had to get a relative go and pay the bill.  Part of the problem was that the repair person didn't accept CCs or P/Pal at the time, a common situation for those of us who dabble in English trains.  Luckily now, one of my cyber friends can be paid via P/Pal which is a help.

 

Brian.

[BR60103]

Topic 1

I just measured a Dublo Simplec point. The rail is .105" (code 105). Total height (sleeper+rail) is .205". The base of the rail is .092" wide. Peco code 100 is .090 wide.

For about 55 years the point has had a Peco rail joiner and something else (finer, North American). There is a visible bump where the 2 rails meet, but needs close inspection.

Topic 2

I lent some books to a cousin in the States. She FedExed the last 2 back. A month later I got a bill for $36 from FedEx for Duty, handling, sales tax. I noticed she'd declared a value of $50 on the books which were 2 paperbacks that retail around $10-12 in Canada. And I'd chucked out the packaging, of course.

[Wolseley]

Importing to the UK is one of my favourite moans.  One of my old Hornby trains needed work so I sent it back to one of the famous repairers but they wouldn't release it until said customs and VAT charges and whatever else had to be paid. Bear in mind that this was to be returned to me on completion of the repair and so not staying in the UK.  So I was duly informed and had to get a relative go and pay the bill.  Part of the problem was that the repair person didn't accept CCs or P/Pal at the time, a common situation for those of us who dabble in English trains.  Luckily now, one of my cyber friends can be paid via P/Pal which is a help.

 

Brian.

 

 

As you might guess from my username, I own and drive an old car, a Wolseley 15/60.  While most parts are available locally, some have to be sourced from the UK.  I have had some dealings with a firm in Ipswich, which carries the most comprehensive range of parts available for these cars anywhere in the world.  Some are new, some second-hand, and other parts are provided on an exchange basis.  Where an exchange is involved, they advise overseas customers to clearly mark the parcel "Goods of U.K. origin returned for repair".  I have not had to send any parts for exchange yet, so I don't know how effective this is for avoiding import duty.

[Il Grifone]

As you might guess from my username, I own and drive an old car, a Wolseley 15/60.  While most parts are available locally, some have to be sourced from the UK.  I have had some dealings with a firm in Ipswich, which carries the most comprehensive range of parts available for these cars anywhere in the world.  Some are new, some second-hand, and other parts are provided on an exchange basis.  Where an exchange is involved, they advise overseas customers to clearly mark the parcel "Goods of U.K. origin returned for repair".  I have not had to send any parts for exchange yet, so I don't know how effective this is for avoiding import duty.

 

It might work as they are to be re-exported, but presumably when originally exported they were exempt from purchase tax/VAT and thus eligible if re-imported. A grey area like much of HMRC legislation.

[Wolseley]

It might work as they are to be re-exported, but presumably when originally exported they were exempt from purchase tax/VAT and thus eligible if re-imported. A grey area like much of HMRC legislation.

 

 

The pump on my windscreen washer bottle (bottle is an understatement - it's a glass jar about the size of one of those big pickle jars) died some time ago and I suppose I should do something about it some day.  The only reason that the car hasn't failed its registration test (the regulations state that, if a windscreen washer is fitted, it should work) is that there is no-one in Australia who fixes them and the mechanic I take it to is well aware of that.  If I do get around to doing it, it will be on an exchange basis, so I'll let you know if I get hit for any unexpected charges.

[john new]

It might work as they are to be re-exported, but presumably when originally exported they were exempt from purchase tax/VAT and thus eligible if re-imported. A grey area like much of HMRC legislation.

That no tax paid on exports was what I was told re the Canadian Atholl I mentioned above, but gets charged if you bring it back, luckily I'd asked the question before buying.

Edited January 11, 2019 by john new

[Il Grifone]

The pump on my windscreen washer bottle (bottle is an understatement - it's a glass jar about the size of one of those big pickle jars) died some time ago and I suppose I should do something about it some day.  The only reason that the car hasn't failed its registration test (the regulations state that, if a windscreen washer is fitted, it should work) is that there is no-one in Australia who fixes them and the mechanic I take it to is well aware of that.  If I do get around to doing it, it will be on an exchange basis, so I'll let you know if I get hit for any unexpected charges.

 

I didn't realise they came fitted with washers back then. My 15/60 didn't have one. I can recall fitting an after market washer to one of my cars (the Corsair IIRC). It consisted of a rubber push button device screwed under the dashboard plus the pipework etc.. It was better than nothing, but only just! Couldn't you fit a pump from something else? Though I suppose you want to keep it original. BMC (and Ford*) were keen on Lucas components at the time, which weren't reknowned for reliability....

 

Grifone waffle warning!

(They were easy to exchange though. The generator failed on my Corsair. A visit to a junk yard, £3 changed hands and 15 minutes later it was fitted and I was on my way An exchange unit in Halfords would have been £8.50 IIRC (it was about the time of the switch to decimal currency). A later experience with a Fiat 850 Pulmino (minibus) was less straightforward. WE had come to visit my parents after while we were living in Italy and the generator failed on the way, we did the last sixty miles on the battery! Obviously no one had the right unit (not even the local Fiat dealer! - though we were warned it was very expensive!) but eventually we tracked one down. It didn't last long however. Once back in Italy it transpired that though it was from a Fiat 850 car,  the generator on ours rotated in the opposite direction (despite being basically the same engine) I gather the brushes were off set from the centre line in different directions (none of that nonsense with Lucas - one size fitted all!). It was quite expensive, but nothing like the price quoted in England.

 

* I think Vauxhall too, but I don't know for sure, as their reputation for rust put me off ever buying one.  Not that BMC and Ford were immune (far from it), but Vauxhalls were the worst. The experience I had with a hired Insignia not so long ago confirmed my prejudice. Going around a roundabout, the engine stalled and I lost both steering and brakes instantly. Luckily I was only going slowly! My daughter's Mk II Mondeo had a steering fluid leak, which resulted in heavy steering, but never so bad as not to be able to steer at all.