micklner Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 How do you remove the Loco body please?. I have removed the obvious front and rear screws from the chassis, and the body wont budge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 There are 5 screwws in total to remove. " small and 3 very small. I can't recall exactly where they were. I am still in the process of reamimg out the splashers si hopefully i'll be able to work out where they go when I come to reassemble. I could do with a coraser cutting disc. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) Quickly sorted thanks , Two larger screws front and rear ( rear screw also holds the Tender pull bar) and two smaller ones either side of the larger rear one. Body then came off quite easily . As already mentioned previously , be careful of the Reversing and Sand operating Rods at the same time. Edited October 21, 2022 by micklner Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_sterling Posted October 23, 2022 Share Posted October 23, 2022 On 20/09/2022 at 20:21, Johan DC said: I broke one of the buffershanks (is that the correct name?) Wouldn't be a problem if I didn't loose the broken parts. Any idea where I might get a replacement? Metal of plastic is fine. Markits are a also decent shout (Alan Gibson stock them, as well as a number of other outlets, Peters Spares, Roxy etc). I've used them on all of my printed loco shells, but have recently moved over to printing the shanks on the shell, and using the 'mechanical' aspects of the Markits buffers. No issue with the Markits buffers, they look great, more that I want the benefit of additional material on the bufferbeams to stabilise for printing. As mentioned Alan Gibson also does the buffers, although they 'appear' like the buffer heads are undersize. Probably not though. Paul. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guardian Posted September 1, 2023 Share Posted September 1, 2023 As any pictures of the lined LNER version seem to be gone, I may show some pics of N 27 no. 1214 acquired last year LNER N 27 class no. 1214. Oxfard Rail OR76J27004XS. Apparently, I was lucky as I received a properly assembled model. It is a good runner and has quite good tractive effort due to its diecast body. The ESU decoder handles the motor smothly, in particular after reduction of the top speed. It is what a J 27 should be - an unpretentious workhorse... Best, Mark 5 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted September 1, 2023 Share Posted September 1, 2023 J27 "tarted up". Bradwell Chimney and Safety Valves. I have just acquired a BR version which will be backdated to LNER version in due course. Lovely Locos. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
liathach Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 Received the Br Late Version over the weekend. Offer from one of the big shops. RHS coupling rod had been bent badly between the middle and rear drivers in both planes. Test run seemed fine, so rather than return, I removed the rod and gently got it back straight. Another test run good. I decided to apply powders weathering. After running for barely ten minutes, the loco would intermittently stop. After going round the houses, it appears it suffers from a mobile axle gear on the leading driver! I've asked the retailer (cc'd OR) to send a replacement wheelset. Not impressed with the QC or box checking by the retailer! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_sterling Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 On 01/09/2023 at 14:59, micklner said: J27 "tarted up". Bradwell Chimney and Safety Valves. I have just acquired a BR version which will be backdated to LNER version in due course. Lovely Locos. Do you go direct to Bradwell for the parts please Mick? Email, phone? Thanks.. Paul.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted October 24, 2023 Share Posted October 24, 2023 8 hours ago, Paul_sterling said: Do you go direct to Bradwell for the parts please Mick? Email, phone? Thanks.. Paul.. E Mail, Dave is is very helpful as well. He is on the Scalefour Society Page under Traders. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted October 24, 2023 Share Posted October 24, 2023 My other J27 is now a J26 , I was unable to find any 1930's era photos of the J27 with a Two Rail Tender. Bradwell castings again , Footplate rivets removed and repainted. Lightly weathered with powders,coaled and crewed. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad McCann Posted October 27, 2023 Share Posted October 27, 2023 Sorry if this has already been covered; I only have a phone and it's a cumbersome process to try and read back on a lengthy thread with it, but is there an aftermarket supplier of the later flatter dome? I'd quite like to replace that provided on the model as it's by far the most common arrangement for the later survivors. Thanks. Davy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetalkinlens Posted October 27, 2023 Share Posted October 27, 2023 2 hours ago, Mad McCann said: Sorry if this has already been covered; I only have a phone and it's a cumbersome process to try and read back on a lengthy thread with it, but is there an aftermarket supplier of the later flatter dome? I'd quite like to replace that provided on the model as it's by far the most common arrangement for the later survivors. Thanks. Davy. This is what you will be wanting (mould 4): https://traders.scalefour.org/DaveBradwell/castings/ Worth noting only Oxford’s 65817 has the correct boiler for the low dome. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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