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[Mookie]

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Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[Fat Controller]

Are you building the 4mm scale or the 7mm scale one?

[Mookie]

On 23/01/2019 at 22:18, Fat Controller said:

Are you building the 4mm scale or the 7mm scale one?

 

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Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[SRman]

The Parkside kits use some standardised sprues for the underframes, so parts are included for alternatives and even duplicates where the same sprue is needed for some doubled-up parts. It is probably cheaper for them to churn out two sprues with all the parts rather than two differently designed sprues with only those parts needed for a particular kit.

Keep all the unused parts in the old modeller's scrap box for future use on other projects.

[markjj]

Most Parkside kits contain different options so do many other kits. You won't go wrong with a Parkside kit though just read the instructions carefully and like all kits research your prototype by finding good close up photos.

[Fat Controller]

And to echo a previous response- keep the left-overs. They come in handy when scratch-building or kit-bashing, or even when repairing damaged vehicles. I'm intrigued to know what parts are duplicated in this model.

[Mookie]

On 24/01/2019 at 08:28, Fat Controller said:

And to echo a previous response- keep the left-overs. They come in handy when scratch-building or kit-bashing, or even when repairing damaged vehicles. I'm intrigued to know what parts are duplicated in this model.

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Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[31A]

A is a mounting for a tension lock type coupling (fixed sort not NEM mounting); I think B is a mounting for the tension lock coupling for which parts are included in the kit, and C are door stops for an open wagon such as a 5-plank merchandise, i.e. not needed for a Conflat.  The part outlined in red on the extreme left is the enclosed body spring for a shock absorbing wagon (again not needed for a Conflat) and the other part outlined in red is a duplicate headstock (buffer beam) only really needed when the underframe is sold separately for fitting to other types of wagon.

[Nickey Line]

Hi Mookie, A is a mounting block for Hornby/Bachmann couplings, B is part of Parkside's own coupling, and C are dropside door springs, not required for this kit.

Hope this helps.

 

Oops beaten to it!

Edited January 24, 2019 by Nickey Line

[Fat Controller]

Hello Brian,

 

here's a few images of the kit.

 

One is the construction of the kit. Parkside_2.jpg

 

The other show the sprue with the extra parts, excluding the container that sits on the wagon.

 

Parkside_1.jpg

 

x2 refers to how many duplicate sprues.

 

Red is extra parts to make a different frame – frame end, buffers etc.

 

Green A and B, I'm not sure if they are parts for another kit and C looks like the teeth you get for holding on the hand brakes. Which are not on the instructions.

 

Also you get 4 brake handles and brake shoe mouldings.

 

kind regards,

 

Mookie

'A' is a mounting block for Hornby style couplings

'B' I can't identify

'C' look like door bangers, for when the chassis is used on an open wagon.

If you buy the Vanwide, you will have a complete set of solebars with auxilary springs, suitable for things like LMS open wagons and vans.

Parkside, before being taken over by Peco, used to supply individual sprues, which were a great aid to kit-bashing.

[Izzy]

Hi Mookie,

 

I have made one of these. Not brilliant, but okay.

 

The BR conflat A's were both 4 and 8 shoe (clasp) fitted. The bits in the kit allow for 4 shoe, but you have to remember that the brake gear will be 'handed' the same on both sides, a mirror image rather than opposite. That is why the extra mouldings are useful as you thus need two the same, each moulding having opposite ones for independent side brakes, so one of each. However they must also match the way the vaccum cylinder operates, (it's central rod will be pulled upwards). Additionally one brake lever must operate in reverse to the other side. This does often confuse me, so I always try and work it out from the central rod through the V hangers, which way it turns after adding the vaccum cylinder, and go from there. You need to find/make extra bits to make it up properly, (I use some straight brass wire and plasticard), but it is worth the effort.

 

Bear with me and I will try and take a couple of shots of mine later to illustrate when I finish what I am doing at present.

 

Izzy

[Mookie]

On 24/01/2019 at 16:45, Izzy said:

Hi Mookie,

 

I have made one of these. Not brilliant, but okay.

 

The BR conflat A's were both 4 and 8 shoe (clasp) fitted. The bits in the kit allow for 4 shoe, but you have to remember that the brake gear will be 'handed' the same on both sides, a mirror image rather than opposite. That is why the extra mouldings are useful as you thus need two the same, each moulding having opposite ones for independent side brakes, so one of each. However they must also match the way the vaccum cylinder operates, (it's central rod will be pulled upwards). Additionally one brake lever must operate in reverse to the other side. This does often confuse me, so I always try and work it out from the central rod through the V hangers, which way it turns after adding the vaccum cylinder, and go from there. You need to find/make extra bits to make it up properly, (I use some straight brass wire and plasticard), but it is worth the effort.

 

Bear with me and I will try and take a couple of shots of mine later to illustrate when I finish what I am doing at present.

 

Izzy

 

 

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Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[Fat Controller]

Hi Mookie,

 

I have made one of these. Not brilliant, but okay.

 

The BR conflat A's were both 4 and 8 shoe (clasp) fitted. The bits in the kit allow for 4 shoe, but you have to remember that the brake gear will be 'handed' the same on both sides, a mirror image rather than opposite. That is why the extra mouldings are useful as you thus need two the same, each moulding having opposite ones for independent side brakes, so one of each. However they must also match the way the vaccum cylinder operates, (it's central rod will be pulled upwards). Additionally one brake lever must operate in reverse to the other side. This does often confuse me, so I always try and work it out from the central rod through the V hangers, which way it turns after adding the vaccum cylinder, and go from there. You need to find/make extra bits to make it up properly, (I use some straight brass wire and plasticard), but it is worth the effort.

 

Bear with me and I will try and take a couple of shots of mine later to illustrate when I finish what I am doing at present.

 

Izzy

For the 8-shoe one, ideally you should use the 'Red Panda' underframe that Parkside used to manufacture and distribute for someone else. Not sure where to get these from now.

[81C]

Try this website .

 

https://www.hamodels.net/coach-and-wagon-buffers-and-couplings.html

[Nickey Line]

 

Will this do? The shackles are a bit overscale, but better than none at all; made up from some bits of chain and an etch from Wizard Models.

[Izzy]

Here are a few shots as promised. They mostly concern the brake gear options because the rest of the kit pretty much falls together, as do most Parkside kits, especially the newer ones.

 

I have used a couple of other wagons from Parkside kits to show the differences, although it is also the case that with fitted wagons the actual design of the operating rods etc varies according to company with regard to pre-BR wagons, and some of these carried on being used with many early BR built/designed wagons.

 

This is a standard 4-shoe fitted wagon.

 

 

and this is a clasp brake one.

 

 

All the rigging/rods bits are from 0.45mm hard brass wire soldered up to suit, and plasticard.

 

I am afraid my conflat A isn't as good as Nicky Line's, or indeed finished yet, I still have some decals to find and apply. I think this is not an issue with the latest Parkside by Peco kits as I understand they all now include them, which is much better than before. Just makes these excellent kits even better. Virtually all my small amount of rolling stock is made from Parkside, with just a few Dapol/exAirfix. No RTR at all.

 

I have made securing lines from fine florists soft iron wire, it's very thin, about 0.2mm, and easily bent to shape. I also carved off the rings and made replacements out of it,  as well as the lifting hooks on the roof. Just needs careful use of a 0.3mm drill for the holes.........

 

 

 

 

Hope these are of use info wise,

 

Have fun!

 

Izzy

[Dunsignalling]

One tip, for Parkside and other kits as well as most r-t-r models, concerns the tie-bars that link the axle-guards on most fitted wagons.

 

These, where present in the first place, are extremely vulnerable, often become distorted, and (in my experience  ) sometimes even get broken during construction.

 

Fortunately (and speaking only as a satisfied customer) etched brass replacements are available, to suit various wheelbase dimensions, from that other maker of a wide range of plastic wagon kits, Cambrian Models. Only done a couple so far, but I think this is going to become an ongoing process for the foreseeable future....

 

John

Edited January 25, 2019 by Dunsignalling

[Mookie]

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Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[Nickey Line]

I am afraid my conflat A isn't as good as Nicky Line's, or indeed finished yet,

 

I have made securing lines from fine florists soft iron wire, it's very thin, about 0.2mm, and easily bent to shape. I also carved off the rings and made replacements out of it,  as well as the lifting hooks on the roof. Just needs careful use of a 0.3mm drill for the holes.........

 

 

 

Looks fine to me, Izzy. I particularly like the shackles, and what you've done with the lifting rings. My shackles look clumsy in comparison...

[RThompson]

There is lifting rings available as an etch from RT Models www.rtmodels.co.uk (website reopening shortly) and I believe the shackles from ambis engineering www.ambisengineering.co.uk

[Mookie]

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Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[Nickey Line]

36 minutes ago, Mookie said:

Well here's my first attempt at a rolling stock kit.

Looks like a tidy job there Mookie 

For weight I usually use coppers glued inside vans and containers. For other wagons I use lead strip glued to the underside of the floor. A total of 20-25 grams per axle is reckoned to be a good benchmark.

For paint I currently use Humbrol and Phoenix Precision enamels. If I didn't already have a stock of paint I'd use acrylics in preference; much cleaner. Phoenix and Railmatch are the ranges for rail-specific colours; lots of choices for other colours, Vallejo, Games Workshop etc.

[Mookie]

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Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[jwealleans]

I'm pleased to see containers properly chained down - it makes such a difference and yet so few people seem to do it.  The chains on mine aren't as good as Izzy's above.  i shall be looking out for some florists' wire.  My only concern would be that my stock is used at exhibitions and has to be robust enough to stand up to the transport and handling.

I make my chains using Geoff Kent's method (The 4mm Wagon, think it might be Part 3)

 

You don't have to chain them if that looks a bit daunting - looking at photos will show you plenty of examples of containers lashed onto or into wagons, or sometimes chained and lashed:

Containers in Highs seem to have been especially popular as it prevented the doors being opened and the contents pilfered.

You can see the lashing rings and eyes on this shot - I use Roxey Mouldings 4A135 etch for the eyes, which just glue into a .5mm hole, then roll .3 wire round a drill to make the rings. 

 

You don't say what era you model so it's difficult to give specific paint advice except that where possible I use Halfords aerosols as they're larger and better quality than the specialist paint suppliers.  The BR containers here are BMW Zinnobar Red.  Somewhere in the depths of RMWeb there is a thread on car equivalents for railway colours.  The RAF Lossiemouth club also used to publish a list on their web page.

 

 

 

[Mookie]

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Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie