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Screw link couplings

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Hi Michael,


Thanks for posting the pictures. The one shown is the later type, with the bend down "tommy bar" that is part of the etch for the middle section.


I see what you mean about the "pip" at the end that could catch the hook. On the original type the ends of the etch for the centre part are a smooth curve - I've just inspected some of mine, so they're a lot less likely to snag. A bit tedious for you having bought the made-up ones, but your best answer is probably a quick dress with a file if needed just before you fit them. They shouldn't spring open, and if the outer links seem about to fall off then I'd suggest using a pair of pointed sweezers, use the points applied to the link just by where it meets the centre part and squeeze gently.


I've always made up my own, and find it quite therapeutic when something on another project isn't going well, being repetitive it can get me back a bit of confidence! I realised a while ago that the components can have flaws, one is that the circles on the outer link that grip the centre aren't always properly clear, and need a gentle ream out for them to sit properly. Shaping the outer links, which you need to do yourself with the kit variety, also has a knack, and I try (but often fail) to get a slight horseshoe which also helps a free swing. I would imagine that the factory assembled variety can have these flaws as well, it depends how careful the assembler is.


You'll have found I'm sure that with some buffer types the links aren't quite long enough, you can either set the coupling out a bit from the headstock, or as I discovered a little while ago, use a product by Roxey Mouldings, who do an etch which includes a mix of short and long outer links that are compatible with the Smiths variants.


There are times that I wish I'd used tension locks, then I go to an exhibition and see how awful they look in comparison and realise I made the right choice!



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