Shedmaster 47 Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Hello folks; apologies if this is meant to be elsewhere...I have a Heljan 00 gauge class 33 loco ,as well as a Dapol class 68 that both suffer the same annoying problem : they both have NEM couplings that droop, to the point of almost touching the sleepers with the hook!! I don't wish to replace with a different type if at all possible ...just curious as to what can be done to fix the problem on what are in all other respects excellent models.. Any help would be gratefully received. Thanks.. Allan.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danemouth Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Allan, I have exactly the same problem with my Class 22 so I too would welcome I solution! Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 I've had a Bachmann FNA wagon which had the same problem with it not coupling with my stock at the right height My solution is fairly simple: but it cannot cure totally bent couplings! I use a small piece of thin plasticard (I'd estimate no thicker than 20thou) as per the photo below (it's the white square) I glued with a combination of CA glue and Plastic Weld to glue the plasic. ONCE DRY, file the added plastic until it fits tightly into the NEM pocket, the usual cause of droopy couplings I find is that it's not completely tight in the pocket. Hope this helps Jules 3 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Hi, The problem with the Heljan coupling pocket is the awful design of the mount, the pocket will always droop once the process has started. Our rake of doggies has a 50% droop rate, we fixed it by an application of a tiny blob of Tacky Wax between the top of the pocket and the wagon. OK, the coupling cannot pivot but neither will it droop (the coupling dropper can foul rails at crossing etc) and the use of Tacky Wax means that the 'fix' is not permanent and can be removed. Not perfect but things seldom are but it works, it doesn't cost much and no animals were harmed in the process. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster 47 Posted July 14, 2019 Author Share Posted July 14, 2019 Thanks guys .. Will give it a go .!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Thin metal (etch cut off for example) pushed between the coupling and inside bottom of the socket is other solution; alternatively try another manufacturers coupling which might just be slightly thicker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster 47 Posted July 15, 2019 Author Share Posted July 15, 2019 Thanks butler ..As you say a thin slither of packing material, should do the trick ..however on the Dapol 68 it would appear to be the whole socket assembly that's dropping.!! Its a pity as the loco is fine in all other respects .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 8 hours ago, Shedmaster 47 said: Thanks butler ..As you say a thin slither of packing material, should do the trick ..however on the Dapol 68 it would appear to be the whole socket assembly that's dropping.!! Its a pity as the loco is fine in all other respects .... I think that the solution was mentioned three posts ago. No amount of packing will raise the coupling pocket. It needs to be secured to the wagon to stop it drooping. If a permanent solution of glue is not preferred, a tiny blob of Tacky Wax will secure the pocket to the wagon to stop it drooping but can be removed without damage to either the wagon or the coupling pocket. Cheers Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster 47 Posted July 16, 2019 Author Share Posted July 16, 2019 Thanks Jack.. I will see just what I can do...the coupling pocket has to swing however ( to negotiate curves ) ; as its mounted to the class 68 locomotives bogie frame It causes derailment if permanently secured straight ..... Thanks ....allan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 15 minutes ago, Shedmaster 47 said: Thanks Jack.. I will see just what I can do...the coupling pocket has to swing however ( to negotiate curves ) ; as its mounted to the class 68 locomotives bogie frame It causes derailment if permanently secured straight ..... Thanks ....allan Errr, no it does not need to swing unless using toy-like curves but if you haven't tried it how can you know? Cheers Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted July 16, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 16, 2019 I have a Heljan Hymek that suffered the droopy pocket problem, and my usual Kadee couplers came out way too low on the height gauge. My solution was to remove the Heljan pocket and fit a (height-adjustable) Symoba CCU to the main-frame, thereby making the coupler independent of the bogie. It works on this loco and looks like it should do the trick on a Class 33, too, but locos with 6-wheel bogies may not have enough overhang at the ends to do this without needing to cut the end of the bogie. If you have easier-than-train-set curves, and use tension lock couplers, you may be better off just fitting wire "goal-posts" to the loco. This has the added advantage that the buffer beam details don't get in the way. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted July 16, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 16, 2019 Please can you tell us more about how you solved the problem on your Hymek? I’m not familiar with the Symoba products, other than what I’ve just looked up on the net. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted July 16, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 16, 2019 (edited) 36 minutes ago, ColinK said: Please can you tell us more about how you solved the problem on your Hymek? I’m not familiar with the Symoba products, other than what I’ve just looked up on the net. I just removed the NEM pockets from the ends of the bogies, then glued the CCUs direct to the underside of the chassis casting, up tight against the ridge at the end. That gave the correct reach for #18 Kadees and the back corners of the base clear the wheels. The latter is the thing that may be an issue with some other loco types. Be careful with glue if its at all runny as it can wick up through the clips holding the unit together and cause it to seize up (permanently). To prevent this I put a couple drops of thin oil into the unit first and work it to-and-fro to ensure the innards are covered. it can be removed later with cotton buds, lighter fuel etc. Best plan is to do a semi-dry run using double sided tape. John Edited July 16, 2019 by Dunsignalling 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster 47 Posted July 16, 2019 Author Share Posted July 16, 2019 3 hours ago, Jack Benson said: Errr, no it does not need to swing unless using toy-like curves but if you haven't tried it how can you know? Cheers Jack Hiya Jack ; sadly yes I DO have " 2nd" radius curves on my small layout .. I am away from home at the min ,but will try your remedy and report back ... .thanks friend . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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