Peco Smartfrog problems

[RTJ]

...essentially I can't get it/them to work!  I have the controller board ("SmartSwitch") wired up and all 4 switches operate the 4 servos OK (in fact, very well), BUT I cannot get the 4 Smartfrogs to work. I have checked all the wiring...but there is just no voltage at all on the output terminal to the frog(s). I assumed the fault was with the Smartswitch but that has just been replaced FoC under warranty by RailsofSheffield, (very good service btw). The new one doesn't work as expected either.

 

I've got microswitches as a 'belt-and-braces' answer if all else fails.

 

If anyone else is contemplating this system I would say that the 4 frog switchers @ about £10 each is an extra expense that seems poor value. The basic system ("Smartswitch") is fine if you can buy it as a special offer (which I did). I would then either mate it with a Megapointscontroller (https://megapointscontrollers.co.uk/product/servo-controller-4r/) or go the full hog and buy their complete Megapoints system outright, (other similar systems are available).

 

Usual disclaimers.

 

In short, has anyone else had similar problems and been able to overcome them?

 

Thanks,

 

Richard.

[Andrew P]

I've wired mine to both DC and DCC with just two wires to the Stock Rails and it's worked under both systems with no extra switches or power, most strange that you have had problems.

[RTJ]

36 minutes ago, Andrew P said:

I've wired mine to both DC and DCC with just two wires to the Stock Rails and it's worked under both systems with no extra switches or power, most strange that you have had problems.

Andy, thanks; I too have use both DCC and DC - and still no joy.

 

I use DC for testing as it's easier for the multimeter to reflect an accurate- and speedier - response.

 

BW

 

R

[Andrew P]

I just wondered if maybe you were trying to make it more complicated than it needs to be, i.e. I only use the two track feeds and nothing to the Frog etc, but put insulators on the ''V'' and new power feeds the other side.

 

[RTJ]

12 hours ago, Andrew P said:

I just wondered if maybe you were trying to make it more complicated than it needs to be, i.e. I only use the two track feeds and nothing to the Frog etc, but put insulators on the ''V'' and new power feeds the other side.

 

If I do that Andy I get my locos either stopping or juddering over the frog.

 

Thanks,

 

Richard.

[SMR CHRIS]

I can’t find my smart switch instructions at the moment,   but from deep memory I think it needed a Independent power supply for the electronics within to function fully,  is it the type that will actuate the servo if you run through the frog with the point incorrectly set ?? And yes it should work with DC or DCC if wired correctly.

I eventually went a different way with points on my O scale layout after deciding I would no longer cater for duel DC/DCC and installed Tam Valley Frog juicers, for the Auto frog polarity.

I have the kept the Smart switch’s for a future project DC/DCC layout project.

If I find the units and instructions to jog the memory I’ll let you know, I do remember they weren’t that clear re the power supply side. 

Best of luck 

[RTJ]

30 minutes ago, SMR CHRIS said:

I can’t find my smart switch instructions at the moment,   but from deep memory I think it needed a Independent power supply for the electronics within to function fully,  is it the type that will actuate the servo if you run through the frog with the point incorrectly set ?? And yes it should work with DC or DCC if wired correctly.

I eventually went a different way with points on my O scale layout after deciding I would no longer cater for duel DC/DCC and installed Tam Valley Frog juicers, for the Auto frog polarity.

I have the kept the Smart switch’s for a future project DC/DCC layout project.

If I find the units and instructions to jog the memory I’ll let you know, I do remember they weren’t that clear re the power supply side. 

Best of luck 

Hi Chris, thanks.

 

You are correct...the Smartfrogs do need a 12V DC supply. I have a Gaugemaster 16V AC supply with the supplied rectifier which is supposed to supply 12V DC (in fact it's 16V DC) and I wonder if that's the problem. I have a lab bench supply somewhere that I can use for a stable 12V supply (when the Cricket and Rugby have finished!).

 

The track is suplied by an old H&M controller (12V DC). When /if I get it all sorted I'll revert to DCC.

 

If it all fails I'll try microswitches and thus ditch the 4 Smartfrogs. 

 

Thanks again,

 

Richard