Jump to content
 

A little help identifying some LNER (loco) and GW (wagons) items from the 1930s please :)


Bucoops
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

Good Morning, I'm hoping to get some help identifying a loco and a couple of (very clean!) GW wagons from a photo of Shenfield station shortly after rebuilding in the 1930s. A bonus question is for the water crane - is it a standard LNER design or is it a GER one?

 

I *think* the loco may be a J39? But I have no idea about the wagons as GWR is a little alien to me :)

 

identify.jpg.7cb06dea88f3f2b5c77a88d7ac7f52e2.jpg

 

Thank you for any assistance :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Wow! A tricky picture to interpret! I can't help with GW stuff I'm afraid. I agree the loco could be a J39 but it looks like its attached to a GE tender? Its not a J19/20 since they did not have a vacuum(?) pipe running under the boiler handrail as this loco seems to have. I would go for a B17 but stand to be corrected!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B  

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Difficult to tell, but the tender looks to have a coping plate that's a bit too tall to be GE.  I think it might be one of the early LNER group standard tenders with the stepped out coping plates.  A handful of the J39s on GE metals in the 30s had these.

 

D

Edited by Darryl Tooley
typo
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Sorry for the quality - it's the best of a bad bunch of the same picture :)

 

I think it's too short to be a B17 but not 100%?

 

I'm guessing it's a Group Standard 3500gal rather than a 4200gal if it's an LNER one.

 

Thanks for the input so far :) 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

They also appear to be quite clean, which suggests they were still new at the time of the photo, which may help.  I agree they are probably the standard 'Parto' type van, but might be Fruit.  There is a ventilator visible on the end of the leading one which rules out Mogo or Banana.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking at the image more it also appears that the first 3 vans are GWR due to the roof profile and roof colour. Possibly part of a wagon load consignment to the same destination. Possibly from somewhere on GWR metals to somewhere on LNER metals. (Hope that makes sense)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

They look like 17'6" Minks (1000s built under many diagrams) or Partos (100s built and some used for specific destinations) so I would go for Minks. Loads of variety vac/non vac but likely to be 10' wheelbase on that date clean.

Will

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Bucoops said:

Thanks - as it will be at the front of a representative train I'd prefer them to have a bit of weight to them. I don't mind plastic kits but would prefer to at least change the chassis to metal.

I found with kit built vans it's pretty easy to add weight using either plasticine or fishing lead

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

These and all sorts of old bits of whitemetal and mazak, even old nails, nuts and bolts, have been given the opportunity of exciting new careers in the Kitmaster/Parkside/Ratio ballasting industry on my layout, with the aid of a bit of epoxy...  Keep the centre of balance low by gluing it to the wagon floor.  Opens and flats are more of a problem, as you have to hide the ballast beneath the floor unless the wagon is permanently loaded or sheeted and nails embedded in plasticene or Milliput is my go to; I also hang on to any RTR wagon ballast strips from scrapped wagons and it might even be worth picking up a few cheap Triangs or Limas at a show or swapmeet just for these.  Lowmacs and Weltrols are a nightmare without loads; with Weltrols the best you can probably do is replace the bogies with whitemetal ones, and use metal wheels on Lowmacs.

 

Replacing entire kit chassis with RTR sounds like a simple solution, but it isn't, because the RTR chassis have integral floors, so the kit bodies sit too high on them.  Plastic kits can be made to run well with a bit of ballasting, and metal wheels and brass cup bearings which many of them are supplied with deze daze.  Parksides come with NEM coupling mounts but Kitmaster (previously Dapol previously Airfix previously Rosebud Kitmaster) and Ratio come with their own type of rigid plastic tension lock couplings.  These are unmitigated sh*t, will pollute your life if you use them, and are best replaced with NEMs; you can buy the dovetail mounts from Parkside.  You have to carve the kit's coupling mounting off and may have to trim the Parkside dovetail to get the correct coupling bar height before gluing them direct to the kit floor; take care to mount them square to the buffer beam and the correct distance in from it by comparing to an RTR wagon.

 

Bogies are harder to retrofit NEM dovetails to, and I'd recommend using Bachmann bogies, which they sell as spares, if suitable, but you are of course restricted to GW plate or LMS diamond frame types.  At least these are suitable for the Ratio bogie bolster wagons.

 

I've had some success mounting bogies using press studs as available in haberdashers' or craft shops for clothes, and from your local anything shop probably as well, cheap as chips so buy a few different sizes to get the correct ride height for your vehicles, which you can check by trial and error against an RTR vehicle for buffer height.  The bogies are easily removed if needed, and care needs to be taken in gluing them dead centre to the vehicle floor so that the body is correctly balanced, but a previous hole for a bogie pivot will automatically 'centre' them for you.  

 

It's also worth replacing buffers with cast or turned metal ones which look much better and give extra ballast weight.  Cast whitemetal vacuum cylinders will help as well.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Somewhere I have a few Parkside wagons with 1p pieces glued in. Seemed like a good idea at the time, and their relative value has dropped even more so even more worth it now!

 

I don't plan to use RTR, but if I can't find any of the ABS kits I'll look at the options.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
On 15/10/2019 at 17:13, The Johnster said:

Opens and flats are more of a problem, as you have to hide the ballast beneath the floor unless the wagon is permanently loaded or

My 16T Minerals built from kits have a thin bit of steel sheet on top of the plastic floor. The steel came from shortening a cooker hood chimney. It's sprayed with primer then rust colour before powder weathering and matt varnish. Adds about 25 grams to the weight.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, TheSignalEngineer said:

My 16T Minerals built from kits have a thin bit of steel sheet on top of the plastic floor. The steel came from shortening a cooker hood chimney. It's sprayed with primer then rust colour before powder weathering and matt varnish. Adds about 25 grams to the weight.

Good idea!

Link to post
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, TheSignalEngineer said:

My 16T Minerals built from kits have a thin bit of steel sheet on top of the plastic floor. The steel came from shortening a cooker hood chimney. It's sprayed with primer then rust colour before powder weathering and matt varnish. Adds about 25 grams to the weight.

Sounds a very elaborate way to make steel go rusty !

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...