Electrofrog Point Problem

[Sol]

4 hours ago, NINJA said:

That wiping contact under the blade always seemed a good idea, why drop it?

 

 

I had asked Peco why they did that as I was going to use those wiping contacts as a reason why I didn't provide additional switching. They did it at the time of updating the turnout for mainly two reasons.

1. Many modified the turnout for DCC by isolating the frog & bonding blades to stock rails ( just like Unifrog is now)

2. Many people pushed them down out of the way so as not too cause any problems.

 

I can under 1.,  but 2. ???

[SM42]

Has anyone using just blade contact to stock rail ever tried using graphite to improve / guarantee the connection?

 

Pencils are cheaper than specialist applications I would suggest.

 

Would there be a downside to doing so?

 

Andy

[John ks]

Graphite is conductive & if you get too much in the wrong place in an electrical circuit it will conduct & can get very hot, so use it at your own peril

 

I once ended up with a mix of oil & graphite collecting across the insulator between a wheel & axle

It got hot enough to destroy the insulator & make the wheelset unusable & may have ruined the bogie frame also

 

 

John

 

[kevinlms]

21 hours ago, Crewlisle said:

lywell Junction,

 

The suggestions below do not directly answer your specific problem but might help others with similar questions about point blade/frog polarity.

 

My DCC 00 gauge layout 'Crewlisle' is over 40 years old & has 32 Peco Code 100 points which were originally all Insul Frog.  About 25 years ago I started to convert them to Electro Frogs to improve their reliability by replacing the plastic frog with a hand crafted brass one soldered to adjoining rails with the points still in situ.  See photo.  They all performed flawlessly, but eventually wore out so about 10 years ago I started replacing them with new Electro Frogs.  They are fitted as they came out of the box using Peco solenoid motors via a 16V CDU, no polarity switches & operated by Peco's stud contact operation on mini track diagrams.

 

The only polarity switch on the layout is for the live diamond crossing at the double junction which is converted from a Peco Insulfrog Short Crossing.  The two points are powered by Peco PL-10 solenoid motors via the 16V CDU.  One of the motors is fitted with a PL-13 switch to operate a colour light signal & the other point is fitted with a PL-10 motor + three PL-13 switches to operate the live diamond polarity & a feather on a colour light signal.  All points work perfectly with just the blade contact.  My secret is that when cleaning the track I also use some fine wet & dry to clean the contact surfaces of the blades, applying Servisol 10 switch cleaning lubricant in both the solenoid motors & the switches & Deluxe Materials 'Track Magic' between the switched blades & fixed rail.  My motors & switches have been on the layout for about 35 years.  No motors have required to be replaced; the PL-13 switches twice.

 

By many on these forums who advocate polarity changing point  motors or switches are mandatory I am considered to be a heretic & should be burnt at the stake!  The point springs are strong enough for positive electrical contact providing the inner faces of the movable blades are kept clean.  The number of polarity failures I have had over the last 30 years can be counted on one hand & then only to sidings.  However, with Code 75 points you may require a polarity switch due to the smaller contact area between the switch blade & fixed rail.  I have noticed on some Code 100 points, the electrical surface contact between the fixed & moveable rail is not always 100% so I have had to 'squeeze' them together with pliers to increase the electrical contact area.  I have a total of 32 Code 100 points ranging from small radius Y points up to large radius curved points on my layout.   I only started having to renew them with new Code 100 Electro Frogs about 10 years ago as they had ‘worn out!  All had been renewed before the 'Uni' frog had been incorporated into Peco points.

 

 

My guess is that you do it all yourself & don't rely on an 'assistant', or at a club where multiple members might be tempted to 'have a go'!