LMS D1927 3 plank scratchbuild in 7mm - DONE!

[Guest WM183]

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Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183
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[Hal Nail]

What did you use to scribe the planks? Is it quite easy to get them regular?

[Guest WM183]

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[brossard]

Clever method.  Good tip for starting holes in brass.  My drill tends to wander when starting a hole.

 

Another method that I like for scribing is the Olfa PC-L:

 

https://www.rona.ca/en/utility-knife-00025018--1?viewStore=41450&&cm_mmc=shopping_google-_-8120594399-_-86908132514-_-pla-357729074531&gclid=CjwKCAjw7e_0BRB7EiwAlH-goIN5BhyutRx28XN5wEocIlY71-QePvCUtTVYbgqfpPN0s9uzGk5csBoCksMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

It leaves a nice bevelled line.

 

In ancient times modellers would make something similar called a "scrawker".

 

http://www.clag.org.uk/scrawker.html

 

John

Edited April 19, 2020 by brossard

[Guest WM183]

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Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183
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[brossard]

Very informative for those just starting out.  Just goes to show you don't need a lot of fancy tools.  I'm more or less the same with a relatively small collection of tools I use most often.  There's a box of other tools that I only rarely use.

 

One thing I don't see is the large Olfa knife with detachable blades.  I probably use this most of all.

 

John

[Guest WM183]

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[brossard]

Ah yes, that's the thing I was referring to.  Very useful for making heavy cuts.  I make a lot of card structures and a scalpel/Xacto #10 is too flimsy to cut 2mm card.

 

John

[Hal Nail]

Apart from a razor saw almost exactly the same as my tools. I use the craft knife and my little flat file the most and should really think about buying shares in blade manufacturers!

Edited April 19, 2020 by Hal Nail

[brossard]

I use a razor saw mostly for trackwork.  Like cutting turnout timbers and making precise cuts of track across board edges.  I had tried using a Dremel cutting disk for that.  It is fast but makes a mess.

 

John

[Guest WM183]

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[brossard]

I think that goes for all of us until we try.  I like Scalescenes.  I've done a fair few Lcut kits as well.  You can see my buildings in the layout thread below.

 

John

[Guest WM183]

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[Hal Nail]

10 minutes ago, WM183 said:

Today some 0.013 in guitar string was delivered and I was able to begin fitting the chassis together. This little wagon just floats along. I probably would use 14 or even 15 thousandths next time,  as it's a bit soft sprung with 13.

I've got Rotosound, Ernie Ball and Gibson's to hand and they all go 10, 13, 17 but Ernie Ball "11s" have a 14 2nd string by the looks of it. 

You'd need tough fingers to play those!

[Guest WM183]

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[Hal Nail]

I checked intending to send a spare if I'd had any!

 

Are you able to photo what you've done with the springing at all? It has crossed my mind to try but i've got no idea how long they would need to be etc!

 

[Guest WM183]

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[Hal Nail]

Thanks! Id forgotten you had used those etches.

 

Slaters vacs are nice but I find the springs have a nack of snagging and being ruined so I usually insert wire. Its a fiddly process as you need to fix the mount, the spring, the internal wire if used and the end.

 

I have only ever come across one decent cast set which infortunately werent branded (possibly ABS) and I've run out now. All the others I've tried have been awful.

 

I've gone with Heljan couplings which probably arent the most accurate but at c£20 for 5 arent bad. Funnily enough just bought some instanter links from Hobby Holidays - I always seem to be short of those.

 

Does wind me up that buffers, hoses and couplings can cost more than a 2nd hand kit! 

 

Ps just realised the wagon I'm just fitting instanters to is also a d1927 and should be screw link!

Edited April 22, 2020 by Hal Nail

[brossard]

I'm with Hal, Slaters vac pipes are very good.

 

To be contrary, I don't insert a wire just let it all dangle free.  To get around the snagging, which I have done once or twice, buy a pack of spare springs.  For the BR type pipes I use black tack (like blu tack only much stronger) to attach the QR connection to the holder.

 

I generally don't like Parkside pipes, they are WM and too heavy and crude for me.  That said, if you are stuck, you can cut off the bag and replace it with a Slaters spring.

 

Hal, why would a D1927 have to have a screw link coupling?  I would have thought freight stock would get an instanter.  Stock rated to travel in a passenger train would certainly need a screw link.

 

John

[The Bigbee Line]

The dia.1927 were built fitted and unfitted. Unfitted 20’6” over buffers. Fitted 20’11” over buffers. The fitted had screw couplings and were “XP” rated. The LMS did not fit instanters they were a GWR thing. Later used by BR. 

[brossard]

Well there's the answer then. 

 

John

[Marshall5]

To complicate matters further, in the 50's, B.R. converted many of the hitherto unfitted D1927's to vacuum brakes.  When I built my Haywood D1927 kit I followed B.R.'s lead fitted vac. brakes, tie bars between the axleboxes and instanters.

Ray.

[Guest WM183]

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[Hal Nail]

I've had another look at photos in light of the chat about retro fits and the LMS style vac pipes are quite different in appearance to the BR ones. Not sure if that impacts on the choice.

[brossard]

4 hours ago, Marshall5 said:

To complicate matters further, in the 50's, B.R. converted many of the hitherto unfitted D1927's to vacuum brakes.  When I built my Haywood D1927 kit I followed B.R.'s lead fitted vac. brakes, tie bars between the axleboxes and instanters.

Ray.

I'm curious about the "Haywood" kit you mention.  At the beginning of this thread there was a search for such a kit which drew a blank.  Do you know if Haywood are still around?

 

John