otherplanet Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 This works well if you have headlights or tail lights, as you can assign this 'LED2' function to an existing light. However it will (at least on some models /settings) flash if you are using the selecta function and have deselect this reciever, which can be annoying. I have recently bought a couple of 3mm flickering orange Leds to try fitting them in the grate, and then connect to the LED2 function. My hope is the flashing of a dull grate will be less noticeable They look OK on the bench when used with a high value resistor to tone them down, but I need to actually build another steamer to try them in anger. . 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 I don't do lights or sound, but, just out of interest, how do you make them work in RC and do they 'stay alive'. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasdavetheroad Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 2 minutes ago, PenrithBeacon said: I don't do lights or sound, but, just out of interest, how do you make them work in RC and do they 'stay alive'. Regards Almost all my experience is with Deltang equipment and basically the receivers have a number of 'P' pads to which can control various devices including LED's. They work on 3V so the LED resistor has a different value than DCC. There are default automatic forward/reverse plus you can use a switch on the transmitter to switch up to 4 LED's in any combination, this requires programming. I set up a bench test with front and rear white and red LED's each end. A single 3 way switch means you can have them on/off in any combination including all on!. I should have videoed it. They can stay alive as long as the receiver is getting power. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 Thanks for that. I have a Micron Tx which has a three way toggle switch (up/down/push) which I imagine is much the same functionality. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasdavetheroad Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 2 hours ago, PenrithBeacon said: Thanks for that. I have a Micron Tx which has a three way toggle switch (up/down/push) which I imagine is much the same functionality. Cheers What model? there are various ones with differing switches Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 (edited) This one Seems to be a good one, at least it does what I want Cheers Edited June 14, 2020 by PenrithBeacon More words Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted June 14, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 14, 2020 That's the same as mine, on my one the A/B switch doesn't toggle to either direction, it always returns to centre (guess that means it's a momentary switch?). I posted this on another thread but it may also interest you guys... After refining the battery installation on the Bagnall (to add an on/off switch behind the cab step and a plug next to the bufferbeam for charging) I did an endurance test - loco upside down on full throttle. I was blown away by how long it lasted - 3h36m running at a constant 3.7v (so about a third of maximum speed on normal 12v), from a 70mah battery. By comparison a Bachmann 3F chassis did 2h30m using a 200mah battery. 1st pic shows the loco being charged - you can see the switch housing poking out behind the cab steps. 2nd pic shows roughly where the battery and switch go with the receiver in the smokebox. The charging socket uses the hole drilled in the frame extensions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted June 14, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 14, 2020 Remarkable. What motor are you using? That’s a rather nice looking loco. Is there more about it elsewhere on RMWeb? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted June 14, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 14, 2020 (edited) Thanks Simon, it's a Hardys Hobbies 16" Bagnall designed to fit the Hornby Peckett B2 chassis, using the standard Hornby motor etc. I've only posted about it a little bit on this thread: Edited June 14, 2020 by Corbs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fallen Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 That looks good Corbs, and very impressive performance as well! Frank 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fallen Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 20 hours ago, PenrithBeacon said: I don't do lights or sound, but, just out of interest, how do you make them work in RC and do they 'stay alive'. Regards I have a similar transmitter, the Tx22 which is an earlier version. I have a railcar which has red "tail lights" at each end, connected to the receiver P outputs. You can switch these with the switch on the Tx, centre is off, switch the switch one way and they come on at one end, switch it the other and the ones at the other end come on. They stay on whether the railcar is moving or not, so they do not go off when it comes to a stand in the station. You could do the same with white running lights at the front. Frank 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted June 15, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 15, 2020 I have to say that most of what I know about these systems and what got me into them in the first place was your models, Frank, so I have you to thank/blame 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasdavetheroad Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 The switch on the TX22 is 'centre biased' which means it springs back to the OFF position. There is also a un sprung version. both work just fine as a lot of the receiver functions have a toggle on/off option. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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