Ray Von Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 (edited) Firstly, is webbing the right term?! I mean the plastic that forms the sleepers and the support for rails in most track. In my case, N gauge flexitrack. Having laid down track, pinned it and then added third rail detail - my layout plan changed and I added a set of points parallel but behind these four sections of track. The problem was that the points were going to be controlled by brass rod o at baseboard level, so I needed to get a tunnel of over 1mm diameter through the plastic. I have managed to do it, but I'm not particularly proud of my method for doing so - basically inserting a scalpel blade at alternating sides of the rail until plastic finally gave. Not my best work, and I did accidentally scratch the top of the rails a few times before using a piece of plastic packaging as a guard. Here's the "tunnel": It worked - technically, but if I ever have to do this again does anyone have any ideas? I thought about a heated wire to make an initial hole and then feeding through some kind of a flexible abrasive wire or cord to form a neat aperture? Edited September 18, 2020 by Ray Von Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikcdab Posted September 18, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 18, 2020 Well as the old man said when asking for directions, I wouldn't start from here! Inevitably our plans change, so things like this have to be incorporated. I wouldn't use anything to melt it as in would worry it would go to far. You have probably done the best you can. Dodd you consider going underneath the baseboard? Ian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 (edited) Why not simply drill a hole with a pin vice or Archimedes drill If you require a 3/4th rail why not try using Peco's IL-120 conductor rail chairs cut down, and a smaller code of rail ? Full instructions on the rear of the pack I know the pots are too big but in the absence of anything else ? Edited September 18, 2020 by hayfield 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 2 minutes ago, ikcdab said: Well as the old man said when asking for directions, I wouldn't start from here! Inevitably our plans change, so things like this have to be incorporated. I wouldn't use anything to melt it as in would worry it would go to far. You have probably done the best you can. Dodd you consider going underneath the baseboard? Ian Thanks Ian, that was my original plan, and I did install rods under the board - as it was 1mm rod it tended to bend at the right angled sections, rendering it unreliable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 3 minutes ago, hayfield said: Why not simply drill a hole with a pin vice or Archimedes drill If you require a 3/4th rail why not use Pecos IL-120 conductor rail chairs and code 60 rail? Full instructions on the rear of the pack https://peco-uk.com/products/conductor-rail-chairs?_pos=2&_sid=4e010e2e0&_ss=r https://peco-uk.com/products/code-60-flat-bottom-rail?_pos=1&_sid=4e010e2e0&_ss=r The holes I needed were horizontal and at baseboard level the Archimedes drill couldn't approach the track at anywhere near the necessary angle, especially between lines. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 (edited) If its the hole in the baseboard that needs to be made oval, buy a drill bit that cuts sideways ( Dremel do them), look for side cutting drill bits http://www.dremel-direct.com/acatalog/562_Tile_Cutting_Bit.html http://www.dremel-direct.com/acatalog/652_4_8_mm_Straight_Bit.html Edited September 18, 2020 by hayfield 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 4 minutes ago, hayfield said: If its the hole in the baseboard that needs to be made oval, buy a drill bit that cuts sideways ( Dremel do them), look for side cutting drill bits Thanks, I do have a Dremel and find it invaluable - would such an attachment fit in the space between my lines though? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 (edited) Am I correct you want a slot under the tiebar ? If so drill a pilot hole with the point in place, remove the point use the cutter or router unit to open out the hole. I bought a standard Dremel drill and I think a side cutting drill was included, plus a router attachment (Plastic head) Edited September 18, 2020 by hayfield 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 No, that hasn't been an issue - my main problem was finding a way to get the brass arm from the operating area at the front of the layout, to the points at back of the layout - with four sections of laid track in the way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted September 18, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 18, 2020 If I'm reading the problem correctly, then either a gun drill if you can get the right combination of diameter and length, or as a simpler and cheaper method, get a length of steel rod of the correct diameter and file a cutting edge on the end and feed it slowly through. Mike. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 Sorry misunderstood You were correct in that you want to remove a piece of webbing between the sleepers. How about putting one of these in the drill http://www.dremel-direct.com/acatalog/118_3_2_mm_High_Speed_Cutter.html 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 (edited) I think what's needed is some sort of blade that is VERY slim (from top to bottom) starts at a point then levels off keeping a sharp edge along the horizontal plane. I used an 11 scalpel blade, which is about thirty degree angle. Edited September 18, 2020 by Ray Von Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 On second thoughts. Have you one of those flexible shafts, if so put a drill bit of the correct size Or use one of those larger Swann Morton blades with a long thin blade, see below buy the better quality handle and blade. the fourth from either the right or left blades, don't buy the thin scalpels 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 3 minutes ago, Ray Von said: I think what's needed is some sort of blade that is VERY slim (from top to bottom) starts at a point then levels off keeping a sharp edge along the horizontal plane. I used an 11 scalpel blade, which is about thirty degree angle. With scalpels I use a number 10a but the blades will break too easily 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Holliday Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 It might be possible to use something like this http://www.dremel-direct.com/acatalog/110_1_9_mm_Engraver.html or a similar dental burr to grind the webbing back from either side. It looks thin enough to fit the gap between your third rail and the webbing. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 To remove a section of webbing try a short length of piercing saw blade in a pin vice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheatley Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 (edited) Bit of brass tube the same diameter as your smallest soldering iron bit, flatten it at one end (and file it to size if necessary), bend the end over at 90deg and use it as a hot chisel. But be quick ! (And try it on a bit of scrap first !!) Edit - on reflection Enterprisingwestern's long thin drill bit is probably less hazardous ! Edited September 19, 2020 by Wheatley 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 As others have said. Use a scapel blade to slit through the webbing just next to each sleeper either side of the required gap. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISW Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 2 hours ago, Wheatley said: Bit of brass tube the same diameter as your smallest soldering iron bit, flatten it at one end (and file it to size if necessary), bend the end over at 90deg and use it as a hot chisel. I'd be inclined to use the brass tubing that will finally be used as the 'tool'. Take a short piece, bent 90-degrees (or less if access is good) and wire-wrap it to the soldering iron tip (while cold of course!). Once hot, push the brass tubing end through the flexitrack webbing under the rail, rail-by-rail. When all rails are done, you should be able to push your final brass tube under all the tracks. Ian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheatley Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 That's a much better idea, I'd forgotten about wire wrapping as a technique since I bought a temp controlled iron years ago. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve W Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 I have previously used a #11 blade in a scalpel handle as the angle is good, but heated it up first with a hot soldering iron or more recently a hot air blower to help it melt through rather than cut. Too much cutting pressure risks damage to the tracks 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 I would have used the hot wire technique and then used some tubing to run the wire through, otherwise it runs the risk of gumming up with ballast. As most ready to lay track comes with sleepers that are too close together, I now cut away the webs and lay them individually. Tedious but worth the effort IMHO. Dead frogs are going to be eliminated too. Unfortunately, the one point I've laid and ballasted is dead frog so a mini pneumatic drill is necessary.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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