RMweb Gold longchap Posted October 21, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 I have two cheap airbrushes which came free with the compressor kit. The compressor works very well after years of service and having examined the airbrushes, then attended an airbrushing course at Pendon, I purchased an Iwata Eclipse brush which is a delight to use and very easy to maintain. If anyone wants two free airbrushes, you know where I live. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 18 minutes ago, Harlequin said: Are the ends of the horse boxes black or brown? It's hard to see from the photo. I believe they should be black but it would be good to get confirmation from people who know better then me! They're black Phil. I might weather those as well, just very lightly. Either with a dark grey wash or perhaps some powders. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted October 21, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2022 I got an Iwata recently as a gift from the management but so far I have not used it as it looks far too precious to put paint in. I will have to take the plunge - I used one on a Missenden course and it was lovely. But as yet my cheap Chinese brush is doing all I need. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 I should probably get a decent one, but need to save the pennies for a bit first I think... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 Hmm. Any ideas what I might have fouled up here please, chaps and chapesses? Fox transfers, soaked in warm water for a couple of minutes then applied onto a coat of gloss varnish. All as per the included guidance. But that carrier film looks hideous. I'm hoping that a coat of matt varnish tomorrow will hide it. If not, off they will come, and I will have to resort to Plan B. Hopefully that won't be required, as I don't yet have a Plan B... No wonder the newly installed driver is looking a tad downcast. 2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neal Ball Posted October 21, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2022 Probably old transfers Graham… or the carrier film hadn’t lifted, or something wrong with the green glossy surface it’s applied to. Trying spraying them with Matt varnish tomorrow, see how you get on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold longchap Posted October 21, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 9 minutes ago, Graham T said: Hopefully that won't be required, as I don't yet have a Plan B... Never worry with an apparent absence of a Plan B, because it's much the same as Plan A with just a little refinement. In the photo above, has the decal completely dried out? If so, then as Neal says, likely a dodgy old decal, so the refinement may simply be new decals applied to a very clean, dry and shiny surface. See how it looks on the morning. A blunt tooth pick and some warm soapy water should encourage the duff lettering and carrier away. What's happening with that savaged horizontal tank seam / pipe above the foreshortened handrail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 40 minutes ago, Neal Ball said: Probably old transfers Graham… or the carrier film hadn’t lifted, or something wrong with the green glossy surface it’s applied to. Trying spraying them with Matt varnish tomorrow, see how you get on. I only bought them recently, so I hope Fox haven't sent me some ancient stock... Let's see what the matt varnish does tomorrow. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 14 minutes ago, longchap said: What's happening with that savaged horizontal tank seam / pipe above the foreshortened handrail? Good point Bill, I should try to clean that up before going ahead with the matt varnish. I'd forgotten about the handrail! That should really be fixed as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Nick C Posted October 21, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 It might also be worth trying microsol/microset, if you can get them in Austria? I can never remember which is meant to be used when... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 Good idea Nick, I think I might have some lying about somewhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 The mojo, having been slightly battered by the pannier decals, has been partially recovered by the next stage of weathering on 1303. This is a dilute wash of Vallejo black grey, streaked downwards with cotton buds, and buffed away again in some areas. I might add a little bit of neat black wash here and there, and still need to do the buffer beams. I'll also add a fire iron on top of the left hand tank, and some chipped paint on the steps and cab handrails. The rear pick-up needs to be tucked back right behind the driving wheel too. I also have some LMS lamps, so will pop one of those on. What codes would they have used when running on a GWR line though? 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted October 21, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2022 1 hour ago, Graham T said: Hmm. Any ideas what I might have fouled up here please, chaps and chapesses? Fox transfers, soaked in warm water for a couple of minutes then applied onto a coat of gloss varnish. All as per the included guidance. But that carrier film looks hideous. I'm hoping that a coat of matt varnish tomorrow will hide it. If not, off they will come, and I will have to resort to Plan B. Hopefully that won't be required, as I don't yet have a Plan B... No wonder the newly installed driver is looking a tad downcast. Horrid - I would have them straight off before the get too stuck and use fresh transfers. One thing I always do as you say is soak them in quite warm water to separate from the backing paper as this seems to soften the glue better. Then I float into wet gloss water based varnish (ie paint the surface with the varnish and immediately float in the warm transfer).. Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 Never heard of applying onto wet varnish before Andy, interesting idea. I'll try that if the Micro Set doesn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 Several pints of (virtual) beer to @Nick C for his suggestion to use Micro Set. I did indeed have a bottle of the stuff on the workbench, and after a few applications the decals look a lot better. Cheers! 🍻 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted October 21, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2022 39 minutes ago, Graham T said: Never heard of applying onto wet varnish before Andy, interesting idea. I'll try that if the Micro Set doesn't work. Well there are videos out there where people float decals into Micro Set but I have tried that and Micro Gloss and I find Micro Gloss works best. It seems to better fill the space below the decal and does not soften it so it then falls apart! https://www.modellingtools.co.uk/microscale-micro-gloss-13743-p.asp I also use it when I need a gloss finish for doing brickwork painting sometimes, so I can wipe excess paint off things leaving just the pointing with paint in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted October 21, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 2 hours ago, Graham T said: Hmm. Any ideas what I might have fouled up here please, chaps and chapesses? Fox transfers, soaked in warm water for a couple of minutes then applied onto a coat of gloss varnish. All as per the included guidance. But that carrier film looks hideous. I'm hoping that a coat of matt varnish tomorrow will hide it. If not, off they will come, and I will have to resort to Plan B. Hopefully that won't be required, as I don't yet have a Plan B... No wonder the newly installed driver is looking a tad downcast. Not an unusual thing to happen to any decals, it's usually down to the gloss clear coat not being dry enough and it reacts to the carrier film - hence silvering, it will usually settle down with a few coats of Micro sol (it luckily did for you) or X-20A thinners at a push. Using Micro set can cause issues with decal break up. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 I've had similar issues with old decals, especially when they have been stored somewhere too warm, but as you found, a little Microsol does the job. Waterslide transfers have their issues, but I find they're still less of a PITA than other types. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 35 minutes ago, toboldlygo said: Not an unusual thing to happen to any decals, it's usually down to the gloss clear coat not being dry enough and it reacts to the carrier film - hence silvering, it will usually settle down with a few coats of Micro sol (it luckily did for you) or X-20A thinners at a push. Using Micro set can cause issues with decal break up. How long would you recommend leaving the gloss coat to dry for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted October 21, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 1 hour ago, Graham T said: How long would you recommend leaving the gloss coat to dry for? 24 hours 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 Thanks, it had at least that long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Keane Posted October 21, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2022 41 minutes ago, Graham T said: Thanks, it had at least that long. Was it water based or enamel? Enamel would take several days to go fully hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 A bit more firtling has been inflicted on 1303. As she would have already been quite an old loco by the 1930s I wanted to give her a fairly well-used look. It probably looks more severe in this fairly brutal close-up than it does to the naked eye! In addition to the black grey wash she had earlier, I've also added some rust powder around the sandboxes and brake shoes, a mix of black and oily steel here and there on the brake rodding, and some oily steel to represent worn paint on the steps and handrails. Hopefully not too OTT? 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 Still needs a lamp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 21, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2022 10 minutes ago, Andy Keane said: Was it water based or enamel? Enamel would take several days to go fully hard. It was for enamel, went on a few days ago but must admit I don't remember exactly when! So perhaps I hadn't given it long enough to cure... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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