signalling & lighting

[rhubarb]

Morning,

Not sure if this is the correct section to be in? Nearly ready to start fitting yard,station lighting and signals. Could anyone recommend good kits for this as i've checked on line and the amount available is staggering!

 

Would prefer kits to build rather than fitting pre-built items.

 

Thanks in advance.

[beast66606]

We are going to need a lot more information ..

 

Scale modelled ?

Era modelled ?

Region modelled ?

working or static yard lamps?

working or static signals ?

semaphore or colour lights ?

[rhubarb]

We are going to need a lot more information ..

 

Scale modelled ?

Era modelled ?

Region modelled ?

working or static yard lamps?

working or static signals ?

semaphore or colour lights ?

Sorry!!,

It would help with more info!

Scale: 00 Gauge.

Era: Modern/Preserved Line intersection so i can run any loco/stock really.Have not set an era as i have a very mixed fleet and like both modern diesel and steam equally!

 

All yard and signals are to be working (electrics are not a problem). Signals to be colour light. I do prefer the old type lamp used in steam yards rather than new MPD steel work/lattice lights.

 

The layout at present is a double mainline running around outside of a bedroom. One twin platform station (capable of taking 5 coach train inc loco),Diesel MPD with refuel point and Steam Depot near station with two road engine shed. Twin sidings on other side of room for general goods/permanent way stock.

 

Hpoe this is better. I'd just prefer to build signals/lamps from kits rather than buy and fit to layout.

[beast66606]

Have you looked at the Eckon range of lamps and signals ?

[brunel]

Hi

 

I did some LSWR"barley sugar" platform lamps by simply twisting the two wires on a grain of wheat bulb and inserting the base of the wires into a short tube cut from a thin drinking straw. I sprayed the whole lot green, painted the top of the bulb green and glued a small washer onto the top of the bulb to look like a Sugg gas lamp. Each one took ten minutes, and if you wire them in two or even three in series, ie connect one to the next so the current has to go through two or three in a row, you get a faint glow just like the originals. The problem with much modern lighting is that it's too bright. Look at some photos, or even just outside your door, to see that there's a lot of darkness in between the street lights.

 

Hopr it helps Brunel

[beeman]

Thought you may be interested in this. I recently 'automated ' 16 Ratio semaphore signals using Flexinol wire. I gather many dislike like this but I imagine its because they did not succeed.I stuck a short round wood plug [broom stale] to the base of the signal, Similar diameter to the signal base.The operating wire pass thro this to the actuator below. the actuator support for a single arm post was a discarded umbrella spoke. The drawing is my 4th version and best method of using this wire. When the actuator is fitted/glued to the u/s of the wooden plug, the assembly can be 'plugged' into a accurately sized hole in the baseboard from above, this makes for easy maintenance if required on the workbench. The P.B. wire of the actuator to signal simply soldered to adjust. A length of 100 mm of Flexinol is correct for operation of the Ratio signals. A downside I found was that a small piece of resistance wire was needed cut to the necessary length to fine tune each arm although fed from a 3volt regulated supply. This is perhaps due to the 'mechanical' variations of each. The most involved I made is a double bracket lattice post with 3 dolls carrying 5 arms,with the 3 homes working.I used a piece of stripboard for this with a umbrella spoke for strength epoxied to its rear, it would be possible to produce 6 actuators on a 22 mm plug using a back to back config. With regard to lighting of buildings I have recently put in around 75 assorted 'lights', 16 of the Modelscene plastic gas lamps converted to using grain of rice bulbs and brass tube, this does need a lathe to bore out some of the bits after chopping them up, 8volt on a 12 volt bulb and they look the biz. The building lighting uses a 40 set fairy light bulbs, so 6 volt for each [240 in series]. These are fed with 5 volts ac from a transformer,the feed wire 'stuck' within the building at a suitable position [ hide the bulbs so the light is reflected within, you dont want to see the bulbs] the bulbs soldered to the end of the wires. An alternative to this is a computer PSU which have a massive output at 5vdc, and 12 volt if you need. On hind sight if starting from scratch I would opt for 6volt bulbs so all could be run from a pc psu, but many of my lights were from a Train Sale and 12 volt so Hobsons choice, good luck in your endeavours, Beeman