Narrow Gauge Beginnings - getting started in HOn30 and H0e

[Simond]

52 minutes ago, Keith Addenbrooke said:

also good to know you’re building models

when all is said and done, there’s been a lot more said than done this year!

 

I promise to post something on Porth Dinllaen before Christmas!

[Keith Addenbrooke]

I hope everyone has had a safe and peaceful Christmas, and may I offer good wishes to all for 2022 in these difficult times.

 

Looking back over 2021, I am grateful for all the encouragement I received: while I didn't get very far with the layout idea I had, I nevertheless made more progress than in possibly any other year I've had as a modeller.  Three things I learned:

1. I enjoyed finally having a go at making things - which all turned out better than I could have imagined.  Although I'm not very quick, and remain very much a novice, I've not been put off and am happy I have some kits lined up.
2. When it came to building my test circuit layout, I discovered I didn't really enjoy track laying - it took me longer than I'd anticipated, and was more involved than I'd thought, even for the most basic of layouts.  My next layout project has therefore been quite dramatically simplified to reflect this (I've sold my Setrack and Insulfrog points).
3. On the plus side however, I found contentment simply watching a train running through a scenic setting on the test circuit, which thankfully fits with point 2.

Here is a basic diagram of the proposal (you'll see my supplier had three unused RH Electrofrog points discounted in stock):

 

Sorry the colours aren't clear (my red pen had died, so the feeder rail is purple - not the best choice).

 

Tracklaying and wiring across baseboard joints, will be new things for me, as are Electrofrog points.  First task (as always) will be to finish the baseboards I have in the outhouse.  Take care, Keith.

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke
(Replacement image)

[Hobby]

Just a personal preference but if you are going to mount the switches for the sections in a line then I'd be tempted to keep the three "main line" ones together, so 1 siding as is, 2,3,4 the oval and 5 the left hand siding?

[Keith Addenbrooke]

The weather has been mild enough for me to fill the garden bin before lunch, thereby earning myself a free afternoon.  As a serial baseboard builder, the Christmas gift of a spirit level was a good choice by Mrs A. and a timely one.  

 

I’d previously re-shaped the boards I’d made for the Austrian H0e end-to-end layout idea to support a continuous run, but they didn’t match up quite as well as they should have done.  Now I have a simple project in mind, it was time to refurbish them.  As I wasn’t using glue or paint I could work in the cellar without spreading fumes around the house.

 

It would save time and effort if I could keep one baseboard intact and just realign the tops of the others.  One of the board tops fitted its frame without any overhang, so that was the one to use.  The top was unscrewed from the adjacent board.

 

All I then had to do was fasten the frame of the second board to it and screw the top back in place.

 

The end board proved more tricky.  It had been cobbled together from the original third baseboard, which was itself made from offcuts from the other two.  It didn’t help that the worst part of the join is the only place in the proposed layout where two tracks cross from one board to the next, so it all had to come apart as well:

 

 

 

(The gap isn’t as big as it appears in the photo)

 

Done:

 

 

 

By this time the light was fading, so it’s all been packed away back into the outhouse ready for final painting.  The boards are stored flat and raised from the floor, which will hopefully minimise any risk of winter warping.

 

It is a house rule that any baseboards being set up and left in a room are to be painted.  I’d tried popping out to the outhouses when the weather allowed in the Autumn to paint a bit at a time, but this hasn’t proved to be a good move, as too much paint dripped unnoticed when I was rushing to get back inside, so there’s some sanding and repainting to do now.

 

Not the most exciting photos, but hopefully a bit of reworking now will save problems later, and it’s nice to get something started before the end of the holidays.  As for what the project will be, I’ve been putting together an idea with a Swiss metre-gauge theme, having very much liked the Bemo electric I bought last year.   This new project now has a separate thread in the Swiss Railways Forum, here .  My HOn30 will continue to be posted in this thread.  Take care and stay safe, Keith.

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke
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[Keith Addenbrooke]

I mentioned in another thread here on RMweb that January is not really a modelling month: the attic room is a bit too cold and even in daylight is not very bright (it's the only North-facing room in the house), so other than a bit of project planning and refurbishing baseboards down in the cellar (described above) I've mainly been trading items in readiness for my planned 2022 project layout (here) over the past month. 

 

I've jumped around quite a bit over the past couple of years, but this piece here by @JZset me thinking how my sideways moves haven't been random.  In a bit of spare time, I drew up a simple diagram linking it all together, and I've found it useful in helping me focus my limited budget spending.  I thought I'd share it as that's something a lot of people are conscious of at the moment, and with so many exciting things happening in railway modelling (particularly Narrow Gauge) it might just be helpful: I start at the top with the two main sources of early influence on my modelling interests, and work down to the two project areas I currently have live:

 

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke
(Replacement image)

[Keith Addenbrooke]

With the January weather ruling out project work in our outhouses, I had a look at my stash for something to do indoors.  I’d enjoyed putting together a Walthers’ Cornerstone kit in the first lockdown (shared in the lockdown modelling thread here on RMweb).  That was their HO Merchants’ Row I kit, and I’ve picked up the next kit in the Series as a second-hand bargain. It’s not specifically aimed at Narrow Gauge modellers, but is a standard HO Scale town building for general use, so here goes.

 

I find these plastic kits to be well made, not massively detailed but good and solid with crisp definition throughout.  Most of the work is painting, which unfortunately isn’t something I’m either good or quick at.  When I made another of their kits, I found weathering rather than painting the brickwork gave me the effect I was after, so before I started I just took a reference photo of one of the wall pieces - the very odd optical illusion along the base line shows I’m not very good at photos either 😜:

 

 

It is level, really 😎:

 

 

Painting lintels and window sills was as far as I got this weekend.  Unfortunately, I realised after I’d begun that I’d completely forgotten to wash the plastic pieces of the kit before starting, to remove any oily residue from the manufacturing process, so three coats of paint were needed in most places:

 

 

I’ve opted against painting all the details of the recessed window frames and sash windows - partly to save time (there are a lot of windows, all set back a few mm into the walls) but also as I’ve learned from experience that adding anything more than the thinnest layer of paint to window frames can make them look less realistic than if I’d left them alone.  My hope is that highlighting the lintels and window sills will mean the frames behind them go largely unnoticed.

 

I’m not aiming for anything sophisticated with this build, but having spent most of my modelling time in recent weeks selling and buying for my next layout, some simple relaxed modelling is better for me than more window shopping 😇.

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke
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[Keith Addenbrooke]

A second weekend on my “low intensity” kit build.  Having left the painted lintels and window sills for a week, the next task was to paint / weather the wall sections so they look a bit less like plastic.  A couple of before and after examples:

 

 

 

 

I’ve just used a thin wash of dark grey applied with a brush that’s been dipped in white spirit first.  The excess paint is brushed off onto a piece of kitchen roll and then the paintbrush is very lightly flicked across the brickwork (vertically).  It’s so simple it hardly even counts as a ‘technique’ and I did all the pieces for the kit in under an hour: it’s one of those times when being too careful isn’t required.  

 

I used to worry about messing this kind of thing up, but any overpainting is easily remedied with a dab of white spirit or a quick rub with kitchen roll.

 

I also painted the sections of the flat roof.  I’m hoping that painting dark grey plastic with dark grey paint won’t be the most exciting thing I’ll do this weekend 😲, but again it makes the kit look a bit less like plastic.  I didn’t take a photo 😮.

 

As I’ve used enamel paint, it will now be left to dry, probably until next weekend when I’ll hopefully start glazing the windows, Keith.      

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Hobby]

I tend to brush over some cream paint over the brickwork and then wipe it off quickly before it dries and then do the top coat of brown or similar, that way the courses are visible but are toned down.

[Keith Addenbrooke]

…I spoke too soon.  While my very simple approach did save me quite a bit of time, on checking how it had all dried after lunch today, it was too monochrome for my liking.

 

On 05/02/2022 at 20:56, Hobby said:

I tend to brush over some cream paint over the brickwork and then wipe it off quickly before it dries and then do the top coat of brown or similar, that way the courses are visible but are toned down.

 

I’ve also used a multi-layered approach before (not as well organised as Hobby describes, but along similar lines).  With a bit of a gap before my first afternoon commitment, I’ve added some dabs of lighter grey and brown for a less uniform result:

 

 

 

I’m not claiming any great expertise here - just sharing how very basic practical modelling gives a lot of enjoyment.  I’m having to make the most of limited modelling time now, so making the best use of the time I do have is the key (I’m no busier than I have been, but the rest of the family are, and I’m the only driver in the household).  Have a good week, Keith.

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

The glazers finally made it in today:

 

 

Modelling time has all but evaporated in recent weeks as work and family life continue to get busier - so even time for simple kitbuilding such as this is now quite a luxury.  A year ago I was able to spend three months scratchbuilding a single model, as Dad’s taxi spent most of its time parked on the roadside and most work calls were still about postponing things.  Now I can be grateful for the headstart a standard kit gives me.

There’s nothing special to show with this photo, although for modellers unused to these kits, note how the window panels are made of quite thick plastic: very different to the thin acetate sheet I find in UK models.  An enjoyable afternoon, Keith.

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

Some photos of the assembled structure; signs and downpipes are still to be added.  

The very obvious omission is the interior - something that stands out with model shops!  At this point I don’t know if this kit (and it’s counterpart, that I made at the start of the 2020 lockdown and appears in the photos), will one day grace a Maine 2’ module or even layout in HOn30, which will need to be set no later than the early 1940s*, or end up further west as part of an Oklahoma-based “ATSF in 1970 in HO” long-term dream layout**.

 

 

 

 

 

* Although the Maine two-footers didn’t really last into the 1940s, Bob Hayden and Dave Frary’s approach with their Carabassett and Dead River Ry made that assumption, as it gave them greater freedom.

 

** Subject of a separate thread in the USA & Canadian Railroads Forum.  Google Streetview shots of Pauls Valley OK, looking away from the ex-ATSF Depot reveal a Main Street of stores not too unlike these, though perhaps without the turret roof.

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

And now for something rather different.  This looks like it’ll be fun* to try:

 

 

 

I’ve never modelled using white metal before so it’ll be something new for me, and it was cheap (unopened second-hand).  It had been filed by the model shop as an “OO Gauge Man-made Scenic item - not railway related” so it took a bit of finding (it may have been there a while!).  I think it would be dwarfed by a standard gauge HO American train, but looks perfect for a slightly quirky, very small HOn30 line.  If I clear some ground it will even fit on the existing board:

 

 

 

The back story unfortunately is that both my wife and I have gone down with Covid, and while we’re thankful not to have it too badly, I don’t think I’ll be finishing my H0m Project baseboards and carting them in from the outhouse and up to the attic room any time soon.  In the meantime I’m thinking I might do some more with the HOn30 instead (which is already inside).

 

I’ve also bought another Walthers Cornerstone kit - also second hand at a good price, and a 009 society wagon kit (I have some spare couplings to find a use for).  The only problem I have with kit building at the moment is that I’m also sleeping in the same attic bedroom where modelling takes place until we’ve recovered, so I need to work that out.

 

In other news, today also saw the very welcome return to the line of Liliput O&K MV8 No.13, as shown in the photo above.  Having owned an earlier version a decade ago, I bought one new from Arcadia Models in Oldham when I returned to Narrow Gauge modelling last March.  Although in the original German RSE Brohltalbahn Livery (when it ran on 785mm gauge), I used it as 760mm gauge Austrian to reflect its later use on the Zillertalbahn, and it appears in lots of photos earlier in the thread.  I traded it to the 009 Society when I had my H0e clear out at Christmas, but I’m sure it’s the same locomotive I’ve now bought back.  I wanted one to strengthen my small roster if I’m going to be doing more in HOn30, and while it’s not American, it is a favourite locomotive (plus, 785mm is almost 30”).  Interestingly, the real V13 returned to the RSE in 2013 and I believe it is still at their museum in Asbach, so I’m kind of following prototype practice in a sense anyway. 
 

 

 

Have fun, Keith.

________
 

* which also means it’ll be OK if I make a mess of it 😉.

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

A Friday photo extra - the train arrives:

 

 

 

 

Have a good weekend, and have a great time if you’re heading to Narrow Gauge North, Keith.

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

I noted yesterday I need to be careful with paint and glue at the moment.  I’m sleeping in the same attic bedroom for a bit as we have Covid, so fumes could be an issue.  The quickest kit I had to hand was another 009 Society wagon that came yesterday, so I’ve made it up this afternoon - I’ve left painting it for another day.

 

There’s just one simple tip I’ve picked up since I built the previous kit - I’ve rubbed some graphite from a pencil into the bearing holes in the solebars, to help the wheels spin more freely in the absence of any bearing cups on these simple kits.  It doesn’t show in the photo, but it has definitely made a difference, so worth passing on.

 

I’ve also test fitted the 009 Society Merseyside and South West Lancs Group ‘Upnor Castle’ to the Kato 11-110 chassis mine came with:

 

The plastic around the 11-110 chassis is a bit narrower than the 11-109 which I think were supplied with the first batch of Upnor Castle Resin Castings.  All I’ve had to do is remove the N-Gauge couplings and the end railings, and file just a tiny bit off each end.  It’s now a comfortable push fit, and although neither set of wheels line up the way I’ve done it, it doesn’t show.

 

Upnor Castle is a 4mm scale model, so I expected it to be a bit bigger than the MV8, and in my mind it will be the road engine for the line.  The quality of the kit is superb, so I’m not surprised the group sold something like 140+ of them.  A real winner.

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

As I’m increasingly looking on my scenic test circuit as a small layout in its own right, I’m thinking more about details I can add.  This switch stand is one I was given at an 009 Society meeting:

 

 

I’ve also fitted the coupling shanks to my Upnor Castle - in the first unpainted shot it does rather protrude, but when coupled up it’s not too bad (to my eyes at least, and better than risking cracking the resin body).  I’m obviously hoping it will look less obvious when painted:

 

 

I did file the sides of the chassis this afternoon so it would fit further into the body - the wheel centres are now at the correct vertical height.  The rest of the job is just painting and weathering.  Have a good week, Keith.

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

As I’m still off with Covid, I’ve a bit of free time.  I was given a Ratio Yard Office (1:76 Scale) as a magazine freebie a while back, and it made a quick job for this afternoon.  I wonder how many of these gift models find their way onto layouts?

 

 

I expected it to be a bit bigger than the existing Auhagen outhouses (also a donated magazine freebie from a while back), but the difference has made me look a bit closer at the sheds - it would appear they’re from Auhagen’s hybrid scale range of 1:100 models designed for use with either HO or TT layouts.  Checking the Auhagen website seems to confirm this: there are three identical outhouses as part of their 1:100 set #42571, with no equivalent in the HO scale range as far as I can tell.

 

Whether or not my little layout is big enough for ‘forced perspective modelling’ remains to be seen, but at least the smaller models are at the far end 😆:

 

 

I’ve also made a start painting my Upnor Castle 009 resin model - as with the Bagnall Steam Tram I did previously, the level of detail is quite incredible, so this will be a job best done carefully, in stages:

 

Keith.

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

No prizes for guessing where this American livery idea came from - I need to leave it all to dry thoroughly for a day or more and then add some weathering (the roof has been done already):

 

In other news, I’m painting the oversized Yard Office to be an Undersized Depot building instead.  I don’t know if I’ll be convinced, but it’s worth a try for a Narrow Gauge short line like this one as it was free.

 

I considered hiding the brickwork under some wooden cladding (using coffee stirrers).  It would have been possible to stick an extra layer to the components prior to assembly, but I decided working round the chimney stack and window / door was simply going to be a bit too clumsy now.

I then tried painting it in Santa Fe colours to complement the locomotive, as I have the colours in stock, but painted yellow bricks looked just like - well, you know exactly what they looked like!  

(They’ve now been over painted with grey primer and again need plenty of time to dry).

 

All good fun, Keith.

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

Today is the final day of my self-isolation and I’ll be starting the task of trying to catch up on a few more things from tomorrow, so this is really more of a status update to tie up a few loose ends:

 

Depot Bodge

 

The Ratio Yard Office still looked too big, so this morning I prized it apart again (the advantage of not having used too much glue!) and removed a couple of courses of bricks from the bottom of each side.  I narrowed the sides so the roof would overhang further, to make it (hopefully) look a little less British.  I had to remove a couple more layers of bricks from the bottom of the two ends so the diagonals still matched up with the sides.  I then chamfered new inside edges so it could be glued back together again, repainted it, and placed on the layout.  The proportions still didn’t look quite ‘right.’

 

This was when I remembered I’d also planned to lower the chimney stack by a couple of bricks as well.  Which meant a rather sticky additional bodge ensued as I quickly tried to rectify my oversight on a small building still covered in wet paint and glue:

 

I’ve gone for a more somber colour scheme, which seems to be more suitable.  Weathering will follow when the glue and paint has had a chance to dry thoroughly, and if I keep it I may add a couple of station signs before bedding it into the ground.  

 

The first thing this kit will be used for is to test out some Deluxe Materials “Glue and Glaze” which is arriving this afternoon - it’s a product I’ve not used before but has been recommended, and I’m thinking it might work for the windows on the Upnor Castle Model.

 

‘Upnor Castle’ update

 

The hawks in the Publicity Department wanted to get some more promotional shots of the new locomotive before I get a chance to mess it up, so it was carefully lowered into place on the layout without a chassis to see how it looks:

 

 

I’ve deliberately painted the sub-frame with a Matt Black paint, as this seems to do the best job of disappearing (given the Kato chassis won’t quite line up with the axle bearings on the model).

 

The roof is not yet glued in place, nor are the controls, which do fit rather neatly:

 

 

I learned from the Steam Tram I did before that I need to do the weathering before applying any decals, and I’ll also put the coupling loops back on, as I think they make the coupling look a little less pronounced.

 

Replenishing the Stash!

 

Along with the “Glue and Glaze” I also have a couple of pre-owned HO Scale Laser-Art Branchline Models building kits coming too.  I just happened to spot them on a retailer’s website the other day at a vastly reduced price.  I’m not sure the shop quite knew what they are, as the description said “Manufacturer to be Confirmed,” which is hopefully the reason why two kits priced new at $178 (£137) have cost me just £35.

 

Operating the Layout

 

Although I built the layout as a test circuit, some operation is possible.  Because I fitted some isolating fishplates at A (so I could test electrical conductivity using the point blades on the Insulfrog switch), a train can be held on the main line while the log train loops round to the Yard and back:

 

 

It just adds a little bit of variety.  When I build the Woodland Scenics whitemetal Depot kit I bought last week it will go on the right hand side of the layout as a Flag Stop.

 

And that’s all for now.  Take care and stay safe, Keith.

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

Weathering, glazing and signage completes the station building for now.  It’s not bedded into the ground in case I decide it no longer suits the layout when I build the American Depot kit I’ve bought:

 

For those (like me) who’ve not used a polymer like “Glue ‘n’ Glaze” before, it looks like this when first applied - though I used more than I needed and the corners are still drying several hours later:

 

The locomotive was next in line for light weathering.  
 

Decals, glazing and refitting the loops on the couplings finish the job.  The controls and roof have been glued in place and the chassis fitted for test running.  The “Glue ‘n’ Glaze” windows are still drying, but the light will disappear for taking photos today before it’s dry (I may edit in some new photos tomorrow afternoon):

 

 

 

Of course, there’s a going to be element of “cruel close-up” in these photos in order to pick out the details (and highlight the shortcomings!).  From my seated operating position it looks more like this:

 

And other than letting the glue dry, I think that’s it.

 

From the beginning, this thread has shared my interest in exploring both American-style 2’ Shortline Railroading (as here) and European ‘Mainline’ Narrow Gauge.  My thoughts are now turning back towards Europe with this purchase of a Bemo H0m RhB Ge 4/4’ - I traded the H0e version I had last year as it didn’t fit with the rest of my H0e / HOn30, but now I’ve started putting together an H0m collection for a Swiss layout it wouldn’t be long before I sought out another one:

 

 

Have a good week, Keith.

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

I mentioned yesterday I might try taking some better photos of the finished locomotive in better light today.  I also whitewashed the Depot, which I think is probably what it needed (in other words, I think it will now stay for a bit):

 

 

The choice of Matt Black for the locomotive underframe seems to do the trick of helping it all disappear (Humbrol Enamel No. 33).  Photos of the prototype “Upnor Castle” confirm I don’t need to add handrails or glazing to the sides above the doors, although headlights should be added (to both locomotives), particularly for American use.

 

 

And a couple of photos to finish: No. 54 on log train duty while No. 12 waits with the Passenger train:

 

The final photo, aided with a backlight, shows the proximity of the layout to the window.  As a portable layout I expect it will now be packed away later, and I’ll see what takes my fancy for the next build.  Have a good week, Keith.

Edited April 12, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

A couple of “proof of concept” photos - an idea I’m working on for a next layout that will use more of what I’ve already made:

 

 

 

Works for me…😀

 

I’ve traded on thecollection of second-hand Bemo H0m I was putting together due to renewed space constraints (explained in my Swiss Layout thread), so my focus is now back on HOn30 / H0e.  With funds replenished, a new kid has appeared on the block:

 

 

It’s a very impressive Ferro-Train 2095 Class, the first of their products I’ve had - initial impressions are it’’s every bit as good as the Bemo H0m, and equally weighty (despite being smaller).  As I quite like these European ‘Box’-style Bo-Bo locomotives it’s a welcome addition, courtesy of the 009 Members’ Shop:

 

 

The coach behind it also came from the Members’ Shop, and is another Ferro-Train item which has people fitted.  Both ran beautifully straight from the box when they arrived on Friday morning.  Have a good week, Keith.

Edited April 10, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

Well, the sun is out, the grass is growing (and has been cut) and with a little bit of free time post-Easter the next sign it is spring in our garden is the (re)-start of the baseboard building season.  I mentioned the latest squeeze on space in my April 10th post above, and a plan is coming together for a small freelance HOn30 / H0e layout (I have a stash of American building kits ready to use - and small mixture of rolling stock plus funds from the H0m sale).  I’m hoping re-shaping the baseboards won’t take too long, as I have two part-finished sets to begin with.

 

When assembled these are too long but the right width:

 

 

and these are too narrow but the right overall length:

 

 

If I take the ends from one set and the sides from the other, making new boards won’t take any time at all…🤣

 

Edited April 20, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

The Test Circuit Layout was originally designed to be set up in the Study when the Attic room is in use as a spare bedroom, as one of the benefits of compact Narrow Gauge modelling.  By the time I’d finished building it last summer the Attic was available again, and as the Study is converted to a Dining Room over Christmas (with Christmas Tree) it’s only now we’re at Easter that I’m trying it out - working well so far 🙂:

 

[Keith Addenbrooke]

As I mentioned in the post immediately above, Narrow Gauge modelling is compact - well, it is when it’s finished: a sunny day off today means the baseboard factory is open for business again:

 

 

Note: not showing - the obligatory cup of coffee (morning sessions) / tea (afternoons): the photo was taking while I was boiling the kettle for the first break. 
 

No tools are left in the outhouses overnight - everything goes up the stairs and back into the house.

Edited April 22, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Keith Addenbrooke]

Track Plan

This is the plan I have in mind - a variation on previous ideas for a tabletop continuous run that fits over three IKEA tables (each IKEA table is 1.0m x 0.6m, so side by side gives 1.8m x 1.0m).  There is a small central station and a scenic run instead of a fiddle yard.  Track capacity at any one time is limited as the priority is to watch trains run in as spacious a setting as possible in the available space, with the option of some simple operation.  I looked at a gentle curve through the station, but a straight loop made it easier to fit everything together and keep tracks straight over baseboard joints.  What's different is the scenic theme is American HOn30:

 

("Layout O" means the 15th iteration of this Anyrail plan)

 

Operation

The six labelled destinations are:

A - Engine Pocket and / or Interchange or Branch Junction Track

B - Combination Depot Baggage Room (also lcl freight)

C - Team Track Loading / Unloading

D - Rail-served Store (Prototype-based)

E - Principle Industry

F - Off-spot siding when running one train (can also be used for Passenger Cars)

 

Two train operation is possible, with the idea being that the track section past the Flag Stop is isolated and can serve as scenic staging while another train switches the station.  A meet is then set up using the double-ended siding.  The siding is deliberately as long as possible for aesthetic reasons, and also allows longer trains to run.  

 

Alternatively, two trains can pass in the Station, and if they each take the right-hand line the switches are in a trailing direction.  As I understand it, conventional US operation would have the superior train on the main line past the depot, with the inferior train waiting in the siding, but this is a narrow gauge line where no-one's looking.

 

Project

(Or: why is this more likely to progress?)  

 

Adopting an American Scenic Theme means I can use kits I have in my HO collection / stash - I already have every building on the plan either built or waiting.  I have more reference books and a few items of rolling stock I've made / kits waiting, in addition to a well-documented lifelong interest in American Railroading.

 

The big freelance compromise I can make is to have European H0e trains / rolling stock running on this layout too - as it is all 9mm gauge it's an option.  I know it wouldn't work for everybody, but having explored both Austrian (H0e) and Swiss (H0m) and not got as far as track laying either time (different reasons), I'm thinking the modelling path of least resistance may just be to bring it all together!

 

The open grid baseboards I built last year needed a slightly larger space (four tables).  Module size was based on 9" radius end curves and points.  Having looked at larger radius H0m plans, I'd like to use this restart to increase the radius to 12" (304.8mm) and have Electrofrog Points (also 12" Rad.).  The roadbed I'm building uses 9mm ply (my old 12mm ply has just been cut up too often).  It will mean adding some more bracing, but I'm keeping the 40mm elevation above the framework I had for the original boards (see page 1). 

 

It'd be very wise for me not to make any promises, but I'm hopeful this all draws on what I've learned.

 

Have a good weekend,  Keith.

 

Edited April 26, 2022 by Keith Addenbrooke