Modern ECML rolling stock (mostly). Grand Central Mk4 set in the works

[hellotojasonisaacs]

Being new to the world of kit building and detailing, I wanted to challenge myself and do something different. I had a pair of railroad power cars lying around after a whimsical purchase and nothing to do with them. Therefore I thought to have a go and convert the motorised car to have a buffer beam, whilst the dummy car will be modified for the emergency coupling. See here the donor model. Far too green and great western!

 

After stripping the body of all parts, I removed painted detail using a glass fibre pen. 

 

 

Edited January 15, 2023 by hellotojasonisaacs
Spelling mistake

[hellotojasonisaacs]

I am going for 43067 during its brief stay with GNER in the early-mid 2000s. As a result I had to cut extra guards windows in the sides and back. I used the scale drawings in modern locomotives illustrated, as well as other pictures for reference. The plastic is very sturdy and quite thick. Take your time and drill lots of holes to save your scalpel blades! A little filing will also be needed. 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

Now the big one. Deep breath! Cut the bottom of the nose off in line with the bottom of the rest of the body. Take your time, let the razor saw do the work. I did about half the cut on each side before switching sides. A little sanding was needed at the end to smoothen everything off. The same was needed on the chassis. Cutting there will leave a thin black hoop. This is needed for later so leave it on but careful, as it is fragile. 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

Cutting the chassis also means the mounting point for the forward lights are lost. I might find a way to reinstate them or just make my own lighting arrangement. Not sure yet. Anyway, the floor will need rebuilding as this is where the buffer beam will be mounted as well as giving strength to the area that was cut away. Space between the chassis and the body will need to be filed away to allow the body to be removed in the future if needed. Ensure the space is straight across and not at an angle. The prototype has cut out sections for the buffer beam to sit. Referring to pictures and my better(!) judgement this was done by carefully sawing in and drilling across.

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

Here is the buffer beam with dimensions. I used 0.5mm plastic sheet and 3mm plastic tube to create it. Please note that these dimensions are what worked for me. Please don’t have a go at me if they are different for you!

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

Finally, mounted to the chassis and with the body shell on. Waiting in the arrival of appropriate buffers before proceeding now. Will certainly be doing more of these in the future. Eventually this model will go into GNER livery. 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[RPNaylor0301]

With the new RailAdventure pairs I think this advice might be about to be very popular!

[hellotojasonisaacs]

After an extended break from modelling (that employment thing gets in the way somewhat!) I added the buffers. From a class 31 originally but they’re close enough. 2mm holes were drilled deep enough for the buffers to sit properly. Perhaps on reflection, I should have used hollow tubing. Oh well! Just need to add a draw hook which I have somewhere, then I can paint.

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs
Grammar

[hellotojasonisaacs]

So a speculative bid on eBay resulted in me winning an Express Models lighting kit for a class 90. I decided to fit it over the course of a few hours to my GNER version. The first job was to pin down the pantograph as it kept popping up when drilling! As stated in the instructions, start with a 0.8mm bit and work up to 2mm, taking time and care as I went along. Each pair of holes should be 0.5mm apart. Measure several times, drill once etc!

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

The kit was soldered in place- I decided to use the full set of functions available so each coloured wire where appropriate, including the spare purple wire off the chip. The previous owner of the loco swapped the chassis for a DCC ready one, so soldering was easy. A quick drop onto the rolling road to make sure it all works so far.

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

Finally stick the lighting board under the pantograph well and push the LEDs into place- red being the inner most lights. A little glue and glaze and that was that. Now to get used to all the functions!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs
Original pictures upside down

[Charlie]

Looks good, upside down, but good.

[Pete the Elaner]

A major upgrade for your 90 (if your layout permits) is to attach the lower front skirt to the chassis instead of the bogie.

I used 2 layers of 40 thou styrene & cut/smoothed this to match the profile of the skirt, but if you want an easier option, MGR_Hooper designed 3d printed items (with or without the buffing plate) which are available from Shapeways.

[cheesysmith]

Like the fact you are doing some proper modelling.

[hellotojasonisaacs]

On 20/06/2021 at 16:37, Charlie said:

Looks good, upside down, but good.

Yeah for some reason I can’t flip the pictures round?! Thanks though!

[hellotojasonisaacs]

On 20/06/2021 at 17:05, Pete the Elaner said:

A major upgrade for your 90 (if your layout permits) is to attach the lower front skirt to the chassis instead of the bogie.

I used 2 layers of 40 thou styrene & cut/smoothed this to match the profile of the skirt, but if you want an easier option, MGR_Hooper designed 3d printed items (with or without the buffing plate) which are available from Shapeways.

That I’ll be doing to one end in the fullness of time, along with a more scale pantograph!

[hellotojasonisaacs]

10 hours ago, cheesysmith said:

Like the fact you are doing some proper modelling.

Thanks! My first steps into actually doing rather than just thinking

[hellotojasonisaacs]

I’m still around! Been slowly working on adding Keen couplings to my GNER mk4s. An initial test run was promising until all the wheels stopped turning! Time to add brass bearings and metal wheels. Skirts for the carriage ends and maybe DVT lighting will follow, in time. 
 

I’ll add a step by step as to how I did it in due course.  

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

 

[hellotojasonisaacs]

Fitting keen couplings to Hornby mk4s:

 

1. Goes without saying, but dismantle coach down to its component parts- very quick and easy, but the seats may need some gentle persuasion!

2. The shaded area drawn on the underside of the coach is to be cut out. 4.5mm from the end and then 23mm from the 4.5mm point. Lots on holes drilled and gentle use of a Stanley blade. File to smoothen any rough edges.

 

3. It’s best to file the opening on the keeper plate so that the coupling can move more freely. Fit thus. Adjust as needed and ensure plate is level and glue

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

4. There is a bit of a tongue on the coupler; file down to allow free movement. 
5. For the female attachment, I opened the holes a bit to make coupling easier. Fit to the coupler arm and add to keeper plate- ensure it can move freely.

6. Remove original couplings from bogies and rotate 180 degrees on refitting to coach. Reassemble coach et voilà!

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

For the DVT, the process is the same as the coaches, but with a few differences. 
 

1. On the chassis, the hole for the keeper plate needs to be 7mm from the end. There are faint mould lines with will be the edges of the hole along the length. The same 23mm from the 7mm point 

 

2. The hole is narrower than on the coaches. As a result the keeper plate needs to be reduced in width. Cut along the lines marked in red. Note- the pic shows a coach, not the DVT, but I forgot to take a picture!

 

All other steps, as previously mentioned. 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

Ok, not entirely ECML rolling stock. I also like Isle of Wight railways. 
Having missed out on a BR black version of Calbourne, I have started to set about converting a mainland DJ Models O2 into an IOW version. Vectis 3d printed model railways supplies the necessary parts, for not much at all. No relation, just a satisfied customer. 
As I can’t remove the body from the chassis (despite reading everything on how to do it) great care is the order of the day, as well as studying pictures and comparing to my EFE version of Chale. 
I’ve only got as far as fitting the extended bunker. Filling, paining and then adding the air tank, pump and pipe work to follow, eventually. 

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by hellotojasonisaacs
Grammar mistake

[hellotojasonisaacs]

Calbourne is on the back burner for now, having been screwed over by Modelmaster. There is also a 313 and 89 in the works as time and motivation permit. 
 

Latest project is turning some old Hornby mk4s into a Grand Central set as despite the real thing being shelved, I always found the rolling stock to be very smart. Being the old tooled coaches, the first task was to make changes to the coaches to reflect the refurbishment done by GNER c.2003. Filled windows and the DVT wifi dome. In the end, the coaches will be keen coupled as described previously in the thread. 

 

Edited January 7, 2023 by hellotojasonisaacs

[hellotojasonisaacs]

Further work to the GC set. The filling job has been smoothed off but some minor work still needed for it to be 100%. The glazing has also been cut away where the windows were filled as well as the roof for the TSOE being cut to size. Next job will be cutting holes in the floor for the Keen couplers. Someone also will be doing the paint job as I can’t do it in my house. 
 

Usual uploading issues when using an apple device. Deal with it.