Hornby Dublo Magnetiser

[locomad2]

Owning  a reasonable Hornby Dublo collection over last 50 years I am aware that some locomotives lose the magnetic strength. Some 40 odd years ago built a simple magnetiser from old solenoids (1inch plus iron core diameter)  using a car battery as a source of current. 

 

Now I know Ron Dodd of HRCA builds and sells an excellent magnetiser and has done some excellent YouTube clips. However I can't really justify buying one for one or two locomotives which constantly lose magnetic strength, don't really want to use neo's either.

 

So using some information about original Meccano magnetiser found some 26 gauge wire and made some coils using 3/8 pole pieces, wire coiled 2600 times.

 

Did try the car battery however found just connecting coils up to an old arc welder provided more magnetic strength, not even sure it's pure DC current. However it did work remaging a "problem" Duchess lowering the amps from 0.85 @12v to acceptable 0.60amps @12v

 

Bit crude but it worked

 

 

[Il Grifone]

I assume you used some sort of counter to keep track of all those turns!

 

I usually replace dodgy magnets with a pair of 6mm cube neodymium magnets* padded with a couple of steel washers. A full sized neo. is too strong in my opinion, but I calculated this size should have roughly the same strength as an original magnet and seems to work OK. (3-4 times as strong will require roughly a quarter of the area.)

 

Tri-ang magnets do not seem to suffer from demagnetisation, though I have found a few. X.04s respond to the same treatment and I've fixed a couple of motor bogies by simply attaching a couple of magnets to the pole pieces.

 

(Bodger quietly exits....)

Edited May 14, 2021 by Il Grifone

[locomad2]

This one is based on an original Meccano design saw the plans somewhere, next stage is source all the electrical components if still available. Getting the roughly the  right number of turns is the easy bit, work out diameter of wire, think its 0.018 of an inch divide into length of coil 2 ins, then divide into 2600 which worked out about an inch from inner row. Don't forget to thread though the inner row first, use a cordless drill, great fun watching it wind.

 

It's a multi tool, idea for magnetising screw drivers etc, I've a 1 inch core solenoid for spanners.

 

Worth watching all of Ron Dodds videos, the magnetic direction is important, my pole pieces already have strong magnetic force so getting the magnet the right way is easy they attract, providing of course they don't get put in the wrong way, they are marked.

 

I've notice that most Hornby Dublo have strong magnetic fields, they will interfere with a compass if placed with 6 inches, often wonder if stored in an engine shed do they interfere with each other 

 

As for Neo's too powerful causes other problems I've seen them crack too. I've used cheap "jumper" small magnets placed on back to increase strength, does work slightly.  Think it's very important to get other things right, oil, gear mesh, armature bearing and adjustment, and run in etc. Why still getting it all checked some locomotives of the same class type etc still outperform others? - part of the fun

[Il Grifone]

I wondered myself. I try to aim for all my Dublo locomotives to achieve the specification* speed/load haulage set out in the 'bible', allowing a few seconds for age. Most manage it, but a few excel.

 

* 12 volt supply - 5 circuits of a train set 'oval' in 25 seconds for most, hauling 4 SD6 coaches. (Just over 100 scale mph.)

 

Vertical motors tend to be critical of brush tension, I have always found. For the 1/2" and Tri-ang motors it seems to make little difference.

[stewartingram]

I'm lucky in that I used to repair models for the local shops; one had a remagger which I purchased when they closed down.

 

Stewart

Edited May 16, 2021 by stewartingram

[locomad2]

8 hours ago, Il Grifone said:

I wondered myself. I try to aim for all my Dublo locomotives to achieve the specification* speed/load haulage set out in the 'bible', allowing a few seconds for age. Most manage it, but a few excel.

 

* 12 volt supply - 5 circuits of a train set 'oval' in 25 seconds for most, hauling 4 SD6 coaches. (Just over 100 scale mph.)

 

Vertical motors tend to be critical of brush tension, I have always found. For the 1/2" and Tri-ang motors it seems to make little difference.

 

 

I tend to achieve the same thing, present layout is the largest, longer trains require stronger locomotives. I find with age some are getting better, I suspect it's due to constant use as compared to sitting in the box for most of their 60 years of life. 

 

The standard 4MT's seem to the most reliable often out performing the 8F's, WC's excellent locomotives so are the R1's, and City's,  Castles not so good prehaps not been on Western layouts in past and  spent too long in glass cabinets.  As for Diesels Bo-Bo is a joke, Co-Co's better once tyres sorted and 08's ok providing you don't let them get hot.

[Il Grifone]

The 4MT was my most powerful locomotive back in the day when she (and her owner!) were almost new and easily handled all eight of my coaches. My N2 was almost as powerful. The Pacifics would lose their feet with more than five.

The solution with the Bo-Bo is to copy the prototype and run two nose to nose. For three rail one has to have the wiring or magnet reversed of course. My reversed one is D8017.

Edited May 16, 2021 by Il Grifone