rynd2it Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 I have an 009 layout which has 11 Peco 009 live frog points. I also have an assortment of kit-built wagons and coaches (bought as a cheap job lot) and I've discovered that several of them seem to have flanges which are too deep for the points. I also have a Roco shunter (new) which runs great but I also suspect is almost too deep for these points - it seems to lift very slightly on some of them. So first question, I need to re-wheel the wagons & coaches but the axles are in plastic frames and I don't want to break anything. Is there a secret to getting them out safely? If so then what wheel sets should I obtain and fit so they will run over the points? On a slightly related topic, I had to modify the points in situ to separate the blades from the frog (using a fine cut wheel in a Dremel) and then jumper between the blades and their adjacent stock rails - this was fiddly on already laid track but the results are great - the little shunter will crawl through the points with no hesitation even on DC. Finally, as I'm using servos to operate the points (via MERG EzyBus modules) I wanted to remove the over-centre springs. Quite by accident I discovered that the spring sticks up very slightly from the tie bar and a gentle push with a fine bladed instrument dislodged it enough to pop out. Easily removed then with a pair of fine-nosed pliers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted October 31, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2021 I would check and adjust the back-to-back distance of the wheels before replacing them. For new wheels try Dundas Models . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erichill16 Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 Also check that the tyres aren’t loose from the wheel centres. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted October 31, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 31, 2021 Hi rynd2it, as per other postings... Check back to back settings and that metal wheel tyers are accurately centred on the plastic wheel inners and that they don't move! Also - remember that not all wheels are the same - they might say the same size but the other variables such as flange thickness and depth have a greater bearing on how they run. Standardise on one wheel make - that way you know you should have the same wheel profile and can sort the back to back/tyre issue if it os present. Beware of buying wheelsets on eBay - that's where a lot of the problems with slightly different wheel profiles start. I bought a job lot that way at what was a good price then found the wheel profile was so far out that I could not use them without putting them on a lathe and reprofiling them. Thanks Phil H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 Thank you all for the input - much appreciated. I do know that at least two sets of wheels are coarse scale with deep flanges so they will need replacing. I will check the rest for B2B. Back to my original question - is there some cunning way to remove the wheel sets without damaging the frames? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted November 1, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 1, 2021 2 hours ago, rynd2it said: Back to my original question - is there some cunning way to remove the wheel sets without damaging the frames? Practice makes perfect..... Depending on what the chassis origins are ... Most of the RTR chassis use a fairly flexible plastic of the nylon type and the wheelsets can be popped out with a bit of muxcle. Chassis under kits are a different thing and don't often use that nylon type material. It's more difficult to get wheelsets out of these without damage to the chassis, but it can be done. On this type of chassis the instructions usually say to insert wheelsets before assembling the final chassis side and that's why it's more difficul to take them out again. On this type chassis I cut a V into the plastic of the suspension/W-Iron as this makes it easier to get the wheelsets in or out once the chassis is fully assembled. For etched chassis getting the wheelsets in or out isn't as much of a problem due to the more flexible etched suspension/w-irons. The most difficult situation is with cast metal suspension/w-irons as there is no flexibilty in the materials and force can cause the castings to break. Over the years I've tried different solutions to this and the best results come from cutting the suspension/w-irons off and modifying them by cutting springs/axleboxes off and replacing the suspension support with either etched or sheet metal with the components solder to it. Thanks Phil H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 Thanks, I'm actually making some progress and have managed to remove and check a few wheel sets. They were all too narrow in gauge! I have a Watts wheel puller and have reset them, apart from one set which are fixed (moulded), they will need replacing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 More news - successfully removed all the wheels I needed to and checked gauge. The Peco moulded wheels are definitely too narrow and not adjustable so I need a few sets of those plus a couple of other sets where the tyres came off and, despite my best efforts, went back on a bit wonky - I'm a total novice at this Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted November 1, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 1, 2021 1 hour ago, rynd2it said: More news - successfully removed all the wheels I needed to and checked gauge. The Peco moulded wheels are definitely too narrow and not adjustable so I need a few sets of those plus a couple of other sets where the tyres came off and, despite my best efforts, went back on a bit wonky - I'm a total novice at this Hi there Progress always feels good! Peco wheelsets are usually 'a standard' - so, what are you comparingthe B2B against? Wheels with tyres coming off can be sorted and still be straight on the wheel. A simple jig is the answer. I use a piece of hardwood that I have hard varnished and drilled a series of holes in - from memory 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 2.5mm. The wheelrim is placed over whichever hole is the same size as the axle with the flange at the top. The pinpoint end of the axle with wheel centre is then inserted into the wheelrim and gently pushed home. Once happy with its position a tiny amount of superglue is the put into the slight gap between the wheel centre and the wheel rim - I use a cocktail stick to pick up the small amount needed as this makes it easier to place accurately. Hope this is all helping! Remember - we all had to learn at some point or other...... Phil H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 I'm using a B2B gauge, seems to work fine Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted November 2, 2021 Author Share Posted November 2, 2021 All the stock is now sorted but I need some new wheels and everyone seems to be out of stock. I need: 4 sets (8 axles) 6.1mm plain disc 2 sets (4 axles) 8mm 6-hole Anyone know of a reputable stockist, Dundas are out of greenwich wheels it seems. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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