Wall hung 00 gauge baseboard restricted height

[Michael 0701]

Hello all.  I have a 6'x4' baseboard which I have successfully had hinged on a wall for a few years.  However recently moved house and the only space is in a shed which has 1.82m high  walls (higher into the apex), if the baseboard is 1m off the ground (suitable viewing/working height) when its in the up position the top of the baseboard goes into the apex of the roof which means a loss of space inside (A).

 

What I need to do is put the baseboard on a sliding rail with possibly an electric lift so in the down position (B) its a minimalist layout, just so long as their is clearance for hedges I can take the platform off for storage.

 

What I don't want to do is over-engineer this or spend a massive amount of money on this.  Has anyone ever seen this before?

[HLT 0109]

Michael

 

Rather than having permenant hinged fixing, why not have the board removable so it can be leant against the wall (as in B)?  When required for working or running, it can then be lifted into the horizontal position.  Lifting a 6' x 4' board would be difficult on your own but two people could do it.  If it is stored with the top towards the wall, two people could lift the board to rest the lower edge of the board on to a rebated ledge whilst lowering the higher edge onto hinged legs.  The raised board can then be secured to the ledge with suitcase catches.  A rebated ledge could be achieved by attaching a wider piece of ply underneath the batten fixed to the wall.

 

Only you know whether this will be possible but I hope this helps you figure out an economical solution.

 

Harold.

 

 

[DCB]

How big is the shed?    If you are planning to stay in this house long term a permanent round the walls layout is probably easier. as you won't need to strip every bit of stock off every time you put it away.

 

If you want to keep the barely portable 6X4 monster either use HLT 0109 suggestion if you have a good mate to help set up or maybe some clever engineering with diagonals should allow it to fit  against the wall, dropping down between its supporting legs and the shed side. see pics  Should be a one man job to erect.

 

• The two long support struts should allow the board to swing over evenly while you kick the back legs and front legs into place.

[Michael 0701]

Thank you both for your replies, both really helpful.  DCB: yours hits the spot.  I do need to be able to have dual use for the shed and I never thought of effectively hinging the layout the opposite way.  I would modify it by not having the back legs but adding a shelf with a rebate, locating pins and suitcase catches.....  I did massively over engineer the layout their is no twist in it, knowing it would be wall mounted for many years , I may be able to just use the support struts as legs....  Great work, thanks very much.

Edited December 9, 2021 by Michael 0701
change

[Michael Hodgson]

If you are fixing scenery to the baseboard you need some form of protection when it is folded away - probably stops fixed to either the top of the baseboard or the side wall of the shed.

 

If the total weight is difficult to  lift, I would suggest using a system of pulleys and ropes (one such at each end of the shed) with a counterweight on the end of the rope dropping against the far wall to make it easier to pull out.  Overkill if the weight is manageable though.

 

Downside of this approach to layout is the need to remove stock every time you put it away, but if it's all the space you have ...

[Nearholmer]

DCB’s solution is very ingenious indeed, but I think I’d want to try a few “reach and lift” trials before implementing it,.

 

The move that concerns me is lowering the board onto the support strut, prior to folding things up against the wall. I can’t quite envisage how it can be lowered gently after the back legs (or support shelf/catches) have been disengaged.

 

 

Edited December 9, 2021 by Nearholmer

[Michael 0701]

I am not bothered about moving stock off the layout, quite used to it now, but I may have room to add a very long but narrow fiddle yard that will not have to be moved/lowered etc.

 

I am confident about moving it, but I am also building a bar (its also my man cave/shed) so I plan to build the bar in such a manner that the layout rests on it and gas struts on the back of the struts to the underneath of the baseboard to allow for a slow lowering.... (did I mention I want to avoid over engineering this )

[Philou]

Pah! When Noah was in short pants I did this years ago in my bedroom - about 1964. I managed to get an 8' x 10' layout hinged against the wall, the ceiling being about 9' high. It took almost the whole room with just the end of my bed showing and the airing cupboard opposite. My mother went mad as the airing cupboard was on the other side of the layout. Being an awkward 14 year-old, I suggested she do as I did and crawl under!! Ooops!! Didn't go down too well.

 

My solution was this: At the intended height of the layout, I fixed a wooden support with a wing-bolt far enough away from the wall so when the layout was vertical, my landscaping was clear of the wall. My end pieces of the layout were made from 3" x 1" and I cut and chiselled (no routers in them days) a slot in each side (at the mid-width) within which the end of the bolt was placed and pushed through. A wing nut was then secured on the inside edge (couple of washers too). At the free-end, the edge that would be closest to the ceiling in the up position, legs were bolted so that they were able to swing freely and always in the vertical position whether the layout was up or down.

 

With a bit of grunt, I was able to raise the layout up from its vertical position and whilst raising I would start to drop it down and forwards until the back edge was clear of the wall - hence the slot to act as a runner. Once horizontal, I would push tight the layout tight against the wall and tighten the wing-nuts so that it couldn't then move. Raising it was the reverse, not forgetting to secure the wing-nuts when in its vertical position - reducing any unwanted accidents.

 

It lasted about 2 years when due to the moaning by senior management, I unilaterally took over the loft instead (it wasn't being used) and I created a 27'1"x 7'6" layout in there instead. I recycled all the timberwork and baseboard too, but not the track. I went from sectional (Trix Twin) to what was then the modern Peco flexible. Never looked back.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

[RJS1977]

If you are able to cut an access hole in the middle of the baseboard, not only will it make it easier to reach the back of the layout, it will also make it easier to manhandle.

[Michael Hodgson]

15 hours ago, RJS1977 said:

If you are able to cut an access hole in the middle of the baseboard, not only will it make it easier to reach the back of the layout, it will also make it easier to manhandle.

... and you won't need a duckunder to get in !

[Michael 0701]

Thank you all very much for all your suggestions its appreciated 

[grasshopper]

One of Kalmbach's track planning bookazines had an ingenious Murphy bed* style mechanism to fold up an 8*4 layout, iirc it was a John Armstrong publication and the layout was called Murphy's Creek and Credenza. I cannot post a pic as 1) copyright, and 2) all my train stuff is buried deep in storage until our new house is ready in 6 months(fingers etc crossed). Plenty of YouTube vids show how to diy the mechanism for a bed.

 

*Bed folds out of a cupboard

 

Edit . Hate typing on a phone

Edited December 20, 2021 by grasshopper