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Leigham Junction - N gauge first layout


Trev218
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  • RMweb Gold

Another thing I did before the fiddly bit was to make some loads for the wagons. I cut some plasticard rectangles and dolloped some filler on them, which I them sanded to shape. Then on went some pva that I could scatter some ballast in to. 

 

Before they were fixed in place I chopped up a bit of lead sheet and epoxied them into the bottom of the hoppers to give a bit of substance to the wagons.

 

Then it was on to the brass etches - blimey they were hard going and I was teetering on the brink of out of my depth! 

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  • RMweb Gold

Some of the etched parts defeated me - I had a job working out the inner frame things and couldn't get the fine wire through for the hand wheel mountings - so I just stuck the wheels on the frames - that was definitely the hardest bit. The end frame and overhead protection was quite straightforward in comparison, which was a relief as if they'd ended up cocked-up it would stuck out like a sore thumb! 

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  • RMweb Gold

The other bit I gave up on pretty much straight away was the tiny handwheels on the bogie etches - the moment I tried to fold them over they just snapped off - maybe I had the wrong end of the stick with what I was supposed to be doing! 

 

Other than that, assembling the bogies and fitting the steps etch was straightforward enough

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  • RMweb Gold

then it was a case of putting on some of the decals and giving them a spray of varnish...now I'm pleased with them...do I pluck up the courage to have a go at a bit of weathering?! I'll do the obligatory light spray of sleeper grime along the bottoms and I'll try and make the discharge chutes look a bit battered and then see where I go from there 

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  • RMweb Gold

Happy New Year one and all :D

 

The last 3 or 4 days off work have given me a chance to finish off the wagons and also make up the little Ratio coaling / watering platform. 

 

The seacows have taxed me to the limit and I'm pleased to get them to a finished state. I did try a bit more weathering on a couple of them...cant decide if it's worked or if it just looks like smudged crappy paint! The results didn't wow me anyway so the rest of them just got the sleeper grime dusting yesterday and a last spray of varnish today. 

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  • RMweb Premium

If it is rust effects you are looking for, I use Winsor & Newton Burnt Sienna oil paint. It takes a while, but can add texture too.

Dab it on in patches with a cocktail stick or stipple brush and the leave it for 24 hours or longer. It will start to dry, but if you then get a brush damp with white spirit, draw the paint downwards and you will get colours that look like newer rust and streaking too.

If you're not happy with it, more white spirit will dilute the effect further, or remove it.

The downside is the drying time....

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  • RMweb Gold
Just now, Davexoc said:

If it is rust effects you are looking for, I use Winsor & Newton Burnt Sienna oil paint. It takes a while, but can add texture too.

Dab it on in patches with a cocktail stick or stipple brush and the leave it for 24 hours or longer. It will start to dry, but if you then get a brush damp with white spirit, draw the paint downwards and you will get colours that look like newer rust and streaking too.

If you're not happy with it, more white spirit will dilute the effect further, or remove it.

The downside is the drying time....

Ta for that...I'd limited myself a bit by using acrylic paints - they sprayed nice and dried quick, but it was the quick drying that bit me in the bum when it came to trying the weathering. I was just trying to achieve a used, grubby effect, it's all a steep learning curve! :)

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  • RMweb Gold
5 minutes ago, Davexoc said:

If it is rust effects you are looking for, I use Winsor & Newton Burnt Sienna oil paint. It takes a while, but can add texture too.

Dab it on in patches with a cocktail stick or stipple brush and the leave it for 24 hours or longer. It will start to dry, but if you then get a brush damp with white spirit, draw the paint downwards and you will get colours that look like newer rust and streaking too.

If you're not happy with it, more white spirit will dilute the effect further, or remove it.

The downside is the drying time....

 

Definitely a good idea.  I've used oils for weathering some ship models and they do the job very nicely.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi,

 

Could I ask you how you have got on with the Peco turntable? I notice that you’ve motorised it?

 

Im also impressed with the Metcalfe stuff - especially how you have done the engine sheds. 
 

Thanks for posting. Again another contributor that’s inspiring me to consider some painting and making!

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  • RMweb Gold
On 27/01/2022 at 21:42, Andy_C said:

Hi,

 

Could I ask you how you have got on with the Peco turntable? I notice that you’ve motorised it?

 

Im also impressed with the Metcalfe stuff - especially how you have done the engine sheds. 
 

Thanks for posting. Again another contributor that’s inspiring me to consider some painting and making!

Hi, thanks very much, appreciate it :)

 

I've sort of been winging it all somewhat! The Peco turntable went together nicely, before everything is glued though make sure you've got decent electrical contact on the sprung plunger things with the brass strip that has the power feeds on it, I ran into a couple of issues with that - in the end it was just a case of making sure the little springs were positioned properly. I motorised it with the Locomotech kit - it's not indexed but does turns it nice and slowly and I'm getting the hang of when to let go the centre-off switch to leave it aligned! 

 

The pair of engine sheds I put together by cutting out most of the adjoining walls, just leaving enough to become the interior supports...and then tidying it up with offcuts and the brick paper sheets to cover over the joins

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47 minutes ago, Trev218 said:

Hi, thanks very much, appreciate it :)

 

I've sort of been winging it all somewhat! The Peco turntable went together nicely, before everything is glued though make sure you've got decent electrical contact on the sprung plunger things with the brass strip that has the power feeds on it, I ran into a couple of issues with that - in the end it was just a case of making sure the little springs were positioned properly. I motorised it with the Locomotech kit - it's not indexed but does turns it nice and slowly and I'm getting the hang of when to let go the centre-off switch to leave it aligned! 

 

The pair of engine sheds I put together by cutting out most of the adjoining walls, just leaving enough to become the interior supports...and then tidying it up with offcuts and the brick paper sheets to cover over the joins

Thank you for the response. I’m not sure I’ll do the turntable, but I do like the engine shed. It looks very similar to the one at mansfield that I may model. A curve ball is I’ve discovered that at the same/era time there was an engine and diesel shed, with sidings, at Kirkby in Ashfield. I’ll not bog this thread down with that, but will be watching the developments on your layout with interest.

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  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Andy_C said:

Thank you for the response. I’m not sure I’ll do the turntable, but I do like the engine shed. It looks very similar to the one at mansfield that I may model. A curve ball is I’ve discovered that at the same/era time there was an engine and diesel shed, with sidings, at Kirkby in Ashfield. I’ll not bog this thread down with that, but will be watching the developments on your layout with interest.

This is very much a make it up as I go along sort of experiment :) It's good fun learning though!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Been a quiet few weeks on the layout front...although on Monday I did get a chance to bite the bullet and make a start with ballasting the left hand baseboard. I find it both therapeutic and infuriating in equal measures, depending on how its going! Will let it thoroughly dry then pick off all the bits that have ended up where they're unwanted  

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  • RMweb Gold

While waiting for that ballast to dry I made up a bit of test track  - in the cabinet there's a load of unchipped locos and a selection 6, 18 and harness chips waiting to be fitted! The DCC Concepts rolling road is a neat little thing for a bit of running in although I found a couple of locos that have intricate bogie assemblies like the 92s didn't sit on it particularly well.

 

I also have started finding out how many Farish locos have split gears - comes from being sat in the cabinet for so long I guess - first one up was the British Steel 60 - particularly annoying after the fiddling harness soldering! Now I'm waiting for a few spares from BRLines :rolleyes:

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  • RMweb Gold
3 hours ago, woodenhead said:

I went with a couple of dinky Zimo MX615R with the pin chopped off, fitted a treat inside my Farish 04, also shorten the wires as they eat up valuable space for the chip.

Be interested to see pic of that. I've managed to get these in by butchering the cab interior a little - the lights at that end won't work but I'll make that the inside end in a train and put all the buffer beam detail and remove the coupling on the other...and not use those chips on a few more that need wired connections! 

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That’s waaaaaaay too much wire on those decoders. A Digitrax DZ126 with the wires as short as possible works well. You’ll never get all of that in sadly. I really must take a picture of a less ropey install, but this was the first loco to hand when someone asked once. 66 rather than 60, but no different. 
 

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Edit: i checked the size of that image when I uploaded it on my phone, and it was reasonable, quite why it then triples the size of it in desktop I've no idea!

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15 hours ago, njee20 said:

That’s waaaaaaay too much wire on those decoders. A Digitrax DZ126 with the wires as short as possible works well. You’ll never get all of that in sadly. I really must take a picture of a less ropey install, but this was the first loco to hand when someone asked once. 66 rather than 60, but no different. 
 

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That looks neat. I'll try those decoders on the handful of 66s that need doing. The main problem I had was the size of the connector on the chip - if it had been solder contacts it would have fitted in that space like yours has but the connector, as well as increasing the thickness, effectively lengthened the thing by around quarter of an inch longer than the space available 

Edited by Trev218
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