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Help required with kit and none dcc models


farren
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  • RMweb Gold

Good morning I am currently trying to get a couple of model to run on dcc. The first is a Hornby Fowler early 1980/90s model converted to a limousine cab. So thought I could just flog the model and buy a new one I not sure if the body would fit. I’ve also fitted a DCC loco lamp to it not wire to the chip yet and don’t really want to waste all that time and effort.
 

I’ve fitted the chip (DCC Zen Black medi with 3 amp)it runs fine on DC however when setting up on test track it doesn’t do the 3 little sprits movements. And on the main track it runs backwards and forwards with no speed control and a overload message if the throttle control is tried from minimum upwards it also make a humming noise. 
 

it’s all soldered and insulated image below a bet messy (sorry) seems to be extra wires with a plug plus others which might need to be cut but don’t want to do anything like that until everything works. 

 The second loco is a kit built model (same make of chip) was wired into the tender but went puff as sone as the DC controller was switched on. It might have been because of a function wire touch the track (not sure). Is there a better and smaller chip that might fit inside the boiler. The model runs fine on DC no sparks can’t see anything touching anything it shouldn’t. The motor is just a small can motor from high level kits

 

the controller is the Gauge Master controller if that makes any difference. 
 

any help very much appreciated, £30 for a smoke cloud is a bit much. 

 

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Edited by farren
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Did you isolate the motor from the chassis before you started this? I don’t think that you did as it looks like you have soldered the red wire from the decoder (it is not called a chip) to the red wire that used to go from the track to the motor brush, though that might be wrong as I can’t really see anything useful from the practices other than this one suggestion

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  • RMweb Gold

I wired it by cutting the green wire which goes from wheels to the motor and soldered the red wire to the green going to the wheels. The orange wire is solder to the second part of the green wire going to the motor (it’s becomes red as that was already soldered on to the brush) which is attached to the brush spring which is insulated.

 

The black wire is soldered to the motor fixing screw.   grey wire goes to the brush which normally is not insulated but the spring has been insulated with some shrink insulating tub.
 

The decoder is kept insulated by sitting on a plastic card cradle glued to a platform glued to the models chassis.  plugged into a 8pin socket fixed to the same plastic card platform. 

Edited by farren
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