Slaters Axlebox spings won't stay in place

[bluestag]

Hey guys,

 

I'm five locos in so far.   The 0-4-0 is compensated along classic Sharman lines.   The other four have Slaters sprung axleboxes.   I cannot seem to keep the springs in place.   Possibly I let the axleboxes drop too low in the hornguides, but I can see no way around that.

 

I'm on the verge of retaining the springs with the smallest drop of superglue on the pin at the top of the hornguides.   Any advice?

[Simond]

Can’t see it (the superglue) being a problem.  Have you tried stretching the springs?  Done gently it’ll barely change their rate, but will perhaps make them long enough not to fall out.

 

I collected a range of different springs from online sources, as that allows som adjustment of weight distribution, which in turn makes a difference to haulage.  When first built, my Dukedog would barely pull two coaches, but with some heavier springs in the front driving axleboxes, it’ll now handle five.

Edited September 12, 2022 by Simond

[ozzyo]

Hello Bluestag,

 

if it's due to the axeboxes dropping too far down and letting the springs "out" you could just use a bit of plastic card on the horn keeps stopping them dropping too far down.

 

OzzyO. 

[bluestag]

7 hours ago, ozzyo said:

Hello Bluestag,

 

if it's due to the axeboxes dropping too far down and letting the springs "out" you could just use a bit of plastic card on the horn keeps stopping them dropping too far down.

 

OzzyO. 

I can't picture it.    I restrain the axleboxes with thin wire threaded thru holes drilled in the bottom of the hornguides.   This is admittedly low on the assembly, but I can't see any place else to drill the holes.

[meil]

Are these the cast brass hornguides or the insulated hornguides?

 

The spring is retained either by an adjusting screw or a cast spigot if using the detailed cast hornblock. Either way the spring can't come out if the bearing is adjusted correctly. You only need at most 1mm of movement.

Edited September 12, 2022 by meil

[Hal Nail]

On 11/09/2022 at 21:45, bluestag said:

Hey guys,

 

I'm five locos in so far.   The 0-4-0 is compensated along classic Sharman lines.   The other four have Slaters sprung axleboxes.   I cannot seem to keep the springs in place.   Possibly I let the axleboxes drop too low in the hornguides, but I can see no way around that.

 

I'm on the verge of retaining the springs with the smallest drop of superglue on the pin at the top of the hornguides.   Any advice?

I would post a photo. Will be far quicker for people to spot if there's an issue.

[Marshall5]

ISTR I soldered a small packing piece under each axlebox to stop them dropping too far.

Ray.

[bluestag]

On 12/09/2022 at 15:51, meil said:

Are these the cast brass hornguides or the insulated hornguides?

 

The spring is retained either by an adjusting screw or a cast spigot if using the detailed cast hornblock. Either way the spring can't come out if the bearing is adjusted correctly. You only need at most 1mm of movement.

Cast brass.    I have the keepers being wire threaded thru holes drilled in the hornguides.    I drill the hole near the bottom of the hornguide, as that is the only place I see that is flat for the drill to start on.     It looks to me that I am letting the bearings drop too low in the hornguides.    I am advised to solder shims (thick) to the bottoms of the bearings, to make them stop against the wire sooner.   And I have concurence that gluing the spring to the peg should work OK.    I think I'll try that, as it is the least drastic step, needing the least disassembly of the four locos under discussion.    I'll try it on one and see if I have issues.

[bluestag]

20 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

I would post a photo. Will be far quicker for people to spot if there's an issue.

Yes, I should.   It would require stripping out the wheels to get a satisfactory view.   In which case I'd be ready to glue in the springs.

 

Perhaps I am missing something where it comes to retaining the bearing?

[meil]

On 14/09/2022 at 02:37, bluestag said:

Yes, I should.   It would require stripping out the wheels to get a satisfactory view.   In which case I'd be ready to glue in the springs.

 

Perhaps I am missing something where it comes to retaining the bearing?

The spring sits outside of an adjusting screw. The screw determines the resting height of the loco/hornblock. The spring only works one way ie down; it doesn't work as a floating spring like a car spring although you could liken it to a McPherson strut with the internal shock absorber representing the adjustment screw.

[bluestag]

5 hours ago, meil said:

The spring sits outside of an adjusting screw. The screw determines the resting height of the loco/hornblock. The spring only works one way ie down; it doesn't work as a floating spring like a car spring although you could liken it to a McPherson strut with the internal shock absorber representing the adjustment screw.

There is no screw on the hornguides that i have, for four locos.   There is a peg that the spring registers on.   I do understand that the springs are fully compressed until a wheel finds a hollow in the track.

[meil]

On 15/09/2022 at 20:53, bluestag said:

There is no screw on the hornguides that i have, for four locos.   There is a peg that the spring registers on.   I do understand that the springs are fully compressed until a wheel finds a hollow in the track.

Well I would get rid of the peg and drill and tap for a screw. How are you going to adjust the ride height and balance of the loco otherwise?