Jump to content
 

St Albans LNWR/GNR


Sithlord75
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

The return to school following the summer holidays (and the heat wave which arrived to welcome us back to work) has spiked the guns a bit but now that the initial flurry of activity has subsided I have managed to get a few things finished.  The last of the Finetrax points I have have been built - so that's enough to finish the platform area and begin on the yard.  With the resumption of mail to outside of the UK I can order the next batch.  

 

I have also built another LNWR bufferstop to put in the yard and made a start on the next one.  I put a bit of wood as the buffing area on the principle that wood looks more like wood than etched metal does, no matter how I paint it.  

 

The blue wagon body is an experiment in a different resin to help with the structural integrity of opens - particularly when they have almost scale thickness sides.  So far, the jury is still out.  Seems to be ok however so I shall persevere.  This is likely to end up as an Empire lettered wagon.

 

image.png.8b4f4efd93f635ed52983348ffaadc2d.png

  • Like 17
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 09/02/2023 at 23:56, drduncan said:

What’s the resin for the open wagon?

Duncan

It's a brand I got from my local Jaycar (electronics store down here - sells wire, plugs, switches and stuff for 3D printers) called Esun - the website is www.esun3d.net

 

I purchased on a whim because they didn't have my preferred Anycubic resin in stock when I called in.  It was little bit cheaper than the Anycubic black which I normally get and it was there so I thought I'd give it a go.  Ends up being a little more sticky and thus needs a little more cleaning with the cream cleaner and half a minute longer in the sun to harden than the black.  I suspect if similar circumstances apply in future I'll probably get some more, but on balance I'll get my normal resin if its available.

  • Thanks 2
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

A Tale of Two Goods Sheds.

 

St Albans doesn't have two I hasten to add (well the LNWR station doesn't although it would be reasonable to argue the City did given three stations!).  However I have had three versions of the Goods Shed over the journey from 1999 until now - but I've only built two.

 

The first one I had was given to me by a 7mm modeller who built it out of card from some plans he had found.  It was a bit over-scale being more akin to the Lima Deltic than the more recent Bachfar offering and didn't actually fit where it was supposed to go on the layout.  Still, I appreciated the effort Roger had gone to.

 

I used a Peco one for years as a placeholder and it wasn't until 2016 that I finally had a go myself.  The reason was I obtained in 2016 the Jack Nelson book "The LNWR Portrayed" (Peco Publications) and it has a plan for the St Albans shed - I presume this was the book Roger had although he was definately an LMS modeller rather than a pre-grouping one.  Utilising my CAD skills and the new fangled 3D printer I had (PLA not resin) I drew up the carcess and printed it, covering it was Scalescenes yellow brick (which turns out to be too dark now that I've seen some colour pictures of the station before demolishing - I presume the goods shed would have been the same colour as I haven't read anything to suggest it was built using a different type of brick or a different supplier).  I was never really happy with it - I know that brick work at 2mm scale is for all intents and purposes 2D not 3D but my eye always wants to "see" the mortar lines and so this one wasn't really good enough for me.

 

65467302_GoodsShedMk1(1).jpg.6ba25a09220ab4c8e5dd715fbdf0404e.jpg404720666_GoodsShedMk1(2).jpg.c828a597f50638a0b4e1f311cc4dc6e0.jpg

 

A few years later, I decided to redo it using Plastruct brick sheet.  I can't remember when I did it, but I'd guess 2019 as I'd by this stage seen Ross Balderson's architectural building work for Newcastle (NSW) and he'd used these sheets.  Very subtle 3D brickwork and a heck of a lot easier to work with than the Peco sheets.  However, when building it, I didn't pay as careful attention as I might have, and managed to get a section of bricks running vertical, not horizontal.  Now I suspect once painted, it wouldn't be noticed unless I pointed it out - afterall I managed to miss it and I was building it!  However, having noticed it, I said some words which I am sure Andy York wouldn't like on RMWeb and the model was consigned to a box.  This evening the box rose to the surface again...

 

IMG_6879.JPG.ec55af08e1224431e8bcfb73ec8b2669.JPGIMG_6878.JPG.175b686baf95e2e8a6dd757fbb8ee9b7.JPGIMG_6880.JPG.b3debcd63b43db64d94239a33b338c4c.JPG

 

It would appear, that not only has it go bricks running the wrong way, but it has also developed some bowing where I'd rather there wasn't any.  In any case, I think Mk 3 is likely to be forthcoming - I need to do something to fill in the time until a) the piggy bank refills from the more recent purchases and b) I can order from Shop 1 again.  I think I'll be back with the 3DP version, but put the Plastruct sheeting on it - this worked very well for my buildings on Ale Dock (the DJLC I brought to Derby last year) and besides, my Head of Department at work wants to see the 3D PLA printers being used - even for my train stuff he said.  Be rude not to - might do the Station Building while I'm at it, and the LNWR Stable Block.

 

 

  • Like 7
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hi Kevin,

 

I've been interested in this Plastruct brick sheet before but it only seems to come up on the .com (US) site as there is no sign of it on the UK site. Did you get yours in Oz or did you have to order from the USA?

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, DavidLong said:

Hi Kevin,

 

I've been interested in this Plastruct brick sheet before but it only seems to come up on the .com (US) site as there is no sign of it on the UK site. Did you get yours in Oz or did you have to order from the USA?

 

David

I got mine from the US of A David, simply because it was more economical!  My local hobby shop didn't stock the sheets - although it does stock other Plastruct products.  When I enquired about getting some in, the price quoted was ridiculous, and when I looked at interstate shops for mail order it became apparent that it was going to be just as quick, and cheaper, to get it from the US.  There was a trader at the DJ Expo last year who stocked either Plastruct or similar - opposite Freshwater.  I'm sure someone will be able to remember which it was (I should, I purchased stuff from them!).

  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a couple of design classes today so showed them how to use the fancy CAD program we have (Autodesk Inventor 2023).  They can use any of the free ones - Fusion 360 is a good one, but there are others depending on what your looking for or comfortable using.  Naturally, as it was just a "this is how it works" lesson - 5-10 mins of me doing stuff before letting them go and play - I took the opportunity to do some stuff for me.

 

1335618474_StAGoodsShed.jpg.d9d505e0bf47bf3c5501d56029166cb7.jpg

 

The good shed file - I've sent this to the Master of the Printers so we shall see how long before it comes back to me.

 

2138595575_TrainShedColumn.jpg.886f0bff0c6337947f3fa0fe256f3be2.jpg

This is the file for the columns which hold up the train shed - there are 9 between the "mainline" and the return track and another 4 on the platform (which I don't have a diagram for nor decent pictures to see how different they are - I am presuming they are merely shortened to allow for the platform height).  This is the track side version.  I've put a 1/8" spigot on the bottom to allow a hole to be drilled in the board to glue it in.  I'll print this on the resin printer.  The square block ends up with the top of it being at the same height as the bottom of the rail (at least that's what it looks like in the pictures).  A bit above the sleepers anyway.  This may need adjusting in thickness to allow for it to rest on the ply baseboard and then be ballasted in.  Another class tomorrow - I'll make a start on the Station Building then I think.  

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have given it a go on a freelance good shed which was a bit smaller than the St A one but drawing the bricks is a very time consuming exercise - and then it would have to be printed on the resin printer rather than the PLA one.  The volume of resin required renders the whole exercise as uneconomic compared with the alternative.   The PLA print is a much sturdier and less prone to warping etc than the resin.

  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

That was my first thought, Ian (or Wizard - my other go to source) - but I can’t remember their layout at Derby exactly now.  Hobby Holidays (Phil Atkinson in the next village to us) lists a lot of Plastruct sections but I think only plain sheet, but you’d find him very helpful if you asked him about it.  Would be worth asking him if he could order you what you want if he doesn’t stock it. 

Laurie A

  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I just don't think that it is imported into the UK. EMA are the official distributors of Plastruct products for the UK. Although they list a number of planked and corrugated sheets there is no listing for the brick sheet.

From Kevin's experience it does sound like Plastruct will ship direct to customers; this isn't always the case as you are often referred back to the the distributor for your region.

I'm always up for finding a decent N scale brick sheet but sometimes it can lead up blind alleys. A few years ago I found a seller in the US and ordered a couple of sheets. When it turned up it was the same type that can be bought from South Eastern Finecast!

Thanks for comments, chaps.

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bricks and brick coursing have always been a problem in our scale. A brick is usually 3' (75mm) tall - well in this country anyways. A course is around 0.5' (10mm) which is negligible.  I've thought about this at length and I'm coming up empty.

Do we produce something that is as close as we can get within the parameters of reason that we can all live with?

As Kev will tell you I'm a bit of a scale tragic and don't take kindly to close enough is good enough.

I'm sure there's an answer out there if we all throw some ideas around. (I even thought about etching up a sheet to see how that worked).

I'll see what I can do.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Styrene sheet brickwork can be made to (near) scale, as we have on CF. 
47EFCE35-9211-4984-AE92-8E75C8CADB95.jpe

This brickwork is made from heating 20thou styrene on a photo etched zinc plate and then pealing it off at the correct moment. It produces irregularities that can be used to good effect. It then comes down to how you paint it.  The printing plate dates from the 1970s and was made by Dave Hammersley, AKA Roxey Mouldings.  
 

Slaters brick sheets can also produce an effective result, but the bricks are poorly defined and rounded. The secret with this is to sand the surface down until the bricks effectively almost disappear. There are plenty of photos on the CF thread that show various  techniques in use: getting the colour and corners right is 90% of the battle: the majority of buildings on CF don’t have any brick relief. 
 

Tim
 

  • Like 6
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

A useful trick with Slaters' brickwork is to paint the sheet a suitable mortar colour ("mid-grey" is often more effective than "sand"), let it dry very thoroughly and then sand it with a side-to-side as opposed to up-and-down motion. If you dust it off regularly during the sanding process you will soon see when to stop.

  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
9 hours ago, CF MRC said:

The secret with this is to sand the surface down until the bricks effectively almost disappear.

9 hours ago, CF MRC said:

the majority of buildings on CF don’t have any brick relief. 

That's the reason I still use (Superquick 4mm scale) brick paper from time to time. Scaling down the relief on full-sized brickwork results in almost imperceptible grooves.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I spent some time today whilst my Year 12s were doing their thing (Friday is self-directed study for Year 12 at my school - how much actual study does vary from student to student!) drawing up the St Albans station building from plans published in the July 1984 Railway Modeller.  The ten parts can be seen by the lines on the top of them - the spaces for the doors and windows are oversize to allow for models of each to be made (possibly on the resin printer) and then plugged in.  Essentially I am using the 3D Printer technology to make a kit - 10 wall pieces, 4 doors, 8x type one window, 2x type two, 2x type three and 2x type four.    There are square blocks at each end of the building which were the gents and a lamp store (I think) which I haven't put on here yet.  You can see the left hand end one here - the elevation facing you in the drawing is the platform side.1863277593_StAStationBuilding.jpg.d5fb2a03da9246756033fd7e001f133f.jpg

  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 16/02/2023 at 12:35, CF MRC said:

This brickwork is made from heating 20thou styrene on a photo etched zinc plate and then pealing it off at the correct moment. It produces irregularities that can be used to good effect. It then comes down to how you paint it.  The printing plate dates from the 1970s and was made by Dave Hammersley, AKA Roxey Mouldings.  

 

I've just remembered that David Eveleigh lists various etched "brick presses" which operate on this principle on his "small suppliers" page on the Association website.

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Set the parts for the building kit up for printing today - now just to await a slot for printing them!  (Or spend time sorting out mine at home....)  It's pretty easy to see how the building breaks down into the "kit".  The big piece at the bottom is the floor piece.  I'll build the rest around it - but probably won't glue this bit in - rather I'll use it to plot out where the building goes on the platform to allow it to "sink" into the surface.

 

56756905_PrinterLayout.jpg.2d77d9de4e71265a00398d320eb25544.jpg

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

I always built a styrene (plasticard) foundation that the building proper sat on like a sleeve. This gives you a base to scenic up against and also allows the building to be removed for maintenance and access. Apart from over scale there's nothing worse than a structure sitting on top of the ground. You can also achieve a prototype ground line that doesn't look like a table top. Flexability.

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

This type of approach also means that any gap between the scenery and the building is on the vertical plane and therefore much less noticeable. See the recent buildings in my Kirkallanmuir thread. 

 

Jim 

  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Using the "built on a base" technique, I often incorporate two or more fixed bolts into the base (depending on its size and shape) which pass down through holes in the base board enabling the building(s) on the base to be bolted down firmly from underneath using nuts or wing-nuts, but still being capable of removal for maintenance (or even use elsewhere) if required.

  • Like 5
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...