Decent kit chassis

[Guest Max Stafford]

Having returned to the world of kit building in the last year, I've successfully built two nice 0-6-0 goods locos. However, I have three projects incomplete at the moment. All three have a common problem - poor and antiquated chassis design which makes running to the sort of standard I require extremely difficult, if not impossible. They are all older kits from the same major North East-based manufacturer. I enjoyed building up the bodywork, but to be honest the chassis arrangements supplied are far from fit for purpose. I was prepared to put the first one down to my own lack of experience, but with three gone the same way, an unfortunate pattern is emerging that is absent when I build other manufacturers items.

My plea therefore is for this manufacturer to up their game in the chassis department, or for one of the cottage industry etchers to produce a suitable replacement.

If you visit my blog you'll see some of the offending items, I'm trying to lay off naming names at the moment, but some of the components supplied wouldn't even merit the label of 'scratchbuilding aids!

 

Dave.

[Jamie]

Will be interesting to hear what response the manufacturer gives you Dave, presume you've sent an email or letter?

 

5mm x 1.2mm flat brass strip with three axle holes drilled doesn't inspire much confidence in the beginner. Learning to draw one's own etch is probably as or more difficult than scratchbuilding a chassis.

 

It may be that sales do not justify the expense of designing a replacement.

[craigwelsh]

On the plus side if you do get something with DJH frames in it running it'll survive the apocalypse.. It does look as if they are running down their 00 range anyway so you may not see any improvements from them here.

 

As for the kit chassis I found it much easier to use CAD and do some etching than work out how to cut sheet metal accurately and now others can get the benefit too (eventually anyway, I know i'm slow )..

[Guest Max Stafford]

Don't fancy doing some etches for a jumbo and a 439 then, do you?

 

Dave.

[Adam]

Don't fancy doing some etches for a jumbo and a 439 then, do you?

 

Dave.

 

I don't know if this helps (and obviously, for the Caley loco's it won't), but the various etched bits that Eastfield Models used to sell can now be had from this outfit apparently:

 

http://www.nbr4mm.co.uk/

 

Adam

[bertiedog]

On the face of of it, a brass strip chassis should be better than an unsprung etched one, (stronger), it's the lack of spring shapes and other details that let them down, but as long as the strip chassis is assembled in a way that is careful, with jig rods through the bearings, bushes added with de-burred ends, and the holes for spacer screws opened and de-burred, the overall chassis sound be stronger and better running.

 

I have never had a problem with DJH, the troubles in the past were all K's, where the stamped parts were bent, but DJH just drill, and are usually true.

 

It is quite easy to add the spring details and extras, less trouble than replacing the lot.

 

General notes on frames for all.....

 

Generally with such a frame, I add small bearings, (but you can run direct,) loose assemble with bushes, screwed, or tack solder where no screws are used). The extra bearings allow a bit of give and play to postion exactly before soldering them into the holes, (pre-tin the frame and the bushes to make the soldering easy).

 

Three silver steel rods are fitted to the axle bearings and the whole chassis is place on a channelled jig, borne by the rods not the chassis.

 

The rods have turned ends to take the coupling rods and when fitted the lot is checked square, and the screws done up with a dash of loctite. Re-check the squareness after each spacer, and after all is true, the chassis is ready for the wheels and quartering, it should al just drop into place.

 

Although tight because of the thicker frames I would always use a gear box or a gearbox attached to the motor these days, not just a plain gear on the axles. Most suppliers of the etched gearboxes do slim versions.

 

These notes are just a valid for etched chassis, but they use in general sheet etch spacers, so tacking together and adjusting is needed, then solder up as soon as it is spot on. Temporary frame spacers with cap head screws and washers can be added to the etched plates edges to act as jigs till the soldering is finalised.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Stephen.

[ianmaccormac]

I don't know if this is the correct one but this is a link to a LBSCR loco that has been used to make one. Mike may well be able to sell you a separate chassis.

All you can do is ask!

see: http://www.mjwsjw.co.uk/page2.html

or look for Arthur Kimber etching work on here somewhere.

Cheers

Ian MacCormac in Blackpool, LBSCR modeller

[bertiedog]

If anybody has decent drawings of obscure chassis not made commercially, I can supply milled edge frames in any thickness of brass or N/Silver for assembly with frame spacers, but no intricate spring assemblies, which I do separately as etches or lost wax castings and solder on. Not commercial these days, just a service.

 

Stephen.

[DerekEm8]

Dave,

 

Profile Milled C R Frames (if you are springing/compensating them)

 

http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/

On Line catalogue Pages 12/13

 

LM1-177 CR 0-4-0ST LM1-227 CR Class 60 4-6-0 LM1-174 CR Class 171 0-4-4T

LM1-165 CR Class 439 0-4-4T LM1-105 CR Class 782 0-6-0T LM1- 228 CR Class 944 4-6-2T

LM1-173 CR ‘Dunalistair' 4-4-0 LM1-157 CR Drummond '262' 0-4-2ST LM1-166 CR 'Jumbo’ 0-6-0

LM1-175 CR McIntosh ‘30’ 0-6-0 LM1-155 CR McIntosh '104' 0-4-4T

 

HTH

[bertiedog]

From the earlier reply for etched frames without frame spacers but etched spacers and shapes, add frame spacers to hold it all together for soldering on the outside, as shown and at each x to suit the frame, and solder up with the axles in place and in a jig to ensure accuracy, and no troubles later on.

 

Stephen.