Producing windows: 3D print or cut?

[Vistisen]

I am just about to embark on my latest scratch build project which is of Hatch Court that has a lot of windows. I have previously bought laser cut windows. but post Brexit that is not really an option thanks to a flat rate £25 handling charge by Danish customs. There are about 50 windows that need to be cut for this model. So, I was wondering about whether this is now the time to invest in a laser cutter. I can get this one for a reasonable price. https://www.xtool.com/products/xtool-d1-pro-5w-higher-accuracy-diode-diy-laser-engraving-cutting-machine But is it any good for modelling needs?

There are also a lot of ornate window decorations and balustrades, so it might be better to buy a 3d printer or (borrow my son’s printer). But could I use a 3D printer to print windows as well, or would they be too delicate?

 

[nick_bastable]

look at Darkly Labs for lasers Ive had one for several years https://darklylabs.com/  also see this thread   https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/108310-darkly-labs-emblaser-affordable-laser-cutter-review/#comment-2205417  will tell you what a small diode laser can do

[stevel]

I have 3d printed 4mm windows and doors, even printed the inside window frames so the glazing bars would be more substantial.

they slide inside the outer frame, and sandwich the glazing.

 

[froobyone]

I both 3D print and laser cut depending on needs. For me, laser cutting window frames gives me better results and frankly more accurate results, because you always get a little bloat with FDM printing.

On one of my kits, I chose to model and then 3d print the staircase for a signal box, but on another signal box kit, I opted to laser cut the stairs. I'll add a couple of pics below.

The xtool is a very pricey option for its bed size. As I've mentioned in another thread, you can puck up an Sainsmart LC-60A for under £400 and that ships with an air assist pump, is almost ready to run and has a bed size of 600mmx600mm. However, for less money, you can get a 10w laser that'll do 650mmx650mm. However, you will need an air assist pump and tubing to get clean burns. 10w just means you can do everything quicker. 

One issue that has to be addressed is location and venting. You really don't want one in your house. I ended up building a shed and putting a hydroponics tent inside and then venting outside with an inline fan. When I've got both my lasers burning, it gets tremendously smoky in there. I have seen small enclosures that might fit an xtool and you vent out of that to the outside. 

In the below photos, the windows frames are laser cut, as are the lever frames and telecoms shelf in the box.

Hope this helps.

Best

Daniel

[PhilH]

I think part of the problem people find is that 3d printing is lumped together as a single entity when it is two completely different processes, both with strengths and weaknesses. In my, admittedly comparatively limited, experience fdm is for functionality, resin is for detail. Obviously that is not hard and fast but that’s how I approach it. For my current diorama I needed a gun position and also some detail for the actual turret, so both types of printer were utilised. The battery is for size comparison (as are the remains of my breakfast…), the handles are 0.4mm thick, the hand rails 0.6mm in diameter.

Edited May 30, 2023 by PhilH

[DGO]

I have found that using resin printers getting muntins (the horizontal and vertical dividers between panes of glass) down to 0.3mm square is possible, in 00 scale thats about 2cm wide if you want narrower than that I'd go with laser cut, use thin card and laminate up the frame for more detail, if you want leaded lights on a window, print black or better yet dark grey onto heavy overhead transparency film, many copy shops have this facility, of the 3 methods the resin frames are probably the most brittle, but I would use them if I wanted to do stone window surrounds/frames I'd be tempted to use a laser to recreate wooden, metal or plastic window frames 

[PhilH]

With regard to the brittleness highlighted in the above post, I have found that ABS like resin is the way to go. I use it exclusively in all my prints now.

[Pete the Elaner]

I recommend resin printing.

 

I struggled with windows for my scratchbuilt buildings. Deciding to try 3d printing them was a game changer for me.

My first effort at this building with hand cut windows was rough by comparison.

I then found it a valid technique for making other things.

The chimneys were also 3d printed in 3 separate components. There is no way I would have been able to achieve that level of consistency with another technique. The station lamp in the background is another 3d print. I have never seen this type available as a model, but they were almost universal in the 70s & 80s.

 

I also have a laser cutter, but even my cheap one was twice the cost of my resin printer. It won't cut plastic any thinner than 2mm because the heat of the laser warps it.

[Vistisen]

Thaks to everyone for all your imput. I think I will start by trying a 3D print of the windows and stone surrounds. One of my sons is a professional 3D artist in the game industry, So I can borrow his printer which he uses for print of his designs in the real world.

Edited June 7, 2023 by Vistisen