Woodburn - TT:120 BR Blue and dirt.

[froobyone]

Hey all.

I've slowly been working my way back into forum life after a very long break. 

The last few years have been spent travelling around the world as a 3D specialist, but all that came to a close in December last year, when the company that developed the software I use, decided to cease its development. What's worse, is that I actually worked for the company in question! My whole team, both here and in the USA were laid off. That left me at an unexpected crossroads. As a specialist (in 3d footwear development) I've sort of painted myself into a corner. I was the only person in the world doing the specific work I was doing. Which is cool to say in a pub, not so cool when there's no one else who can use those skills, now the software is end of life. 

So I decided to invest some of my redundancy package into cnc lasers and other associated equipment, to design and produce laser cut railway related model kits. No, I can't give you a link, because I've been a member here for years and I'm not getting banned for breaking forum rules three minutes after coming back.

The upshot of all this. A little silver lining if you will, is my girlfiend (sic) thinks I should build a new layout that I can use to pose my kits on for the ebay pics etc. I'm not going to argue with that. First time I've ever been told to build a layout so I'm jumping at the chance.

I don't even know what yet. I'm a blue diesel guy, as anyone whoever saw Hullbridge will attest, so it'll more than likely be sometime in the late eighties, because I also like Intercity Executive. All I know is it'll be called Woodburn, because everyone love a pun...

Not sure whether to do urban or country. Station or goods. End to end or roundy -hidden fiddle -roundy. I even floated the idea for a roundy with two different locations on either side, or two seasons. I just don't know. I don't want o bite off more than I can chew, because that's exactly what I'm likely to do and then get swamped. So I have to be cautious and do some proper planning, which is exactly what I'm unlikely to do. 

and hopefully this layout thread won't get archived into oblivion like Hullbridge :)
 

Weird not having any pics in the thread and obviously I don't have an image in my head that I could even AI an image with, so here's some HSTs I posed on the old Hullbridge layout as it was dismantled and a photo of a couple of my shops.

Nice to be back

Daniel

 

[froobyone]

Hey

OK. In an unusual step for me, I've started planning.

Whilst I've been away from railway modelling for about ten years, model trains have never been far from me as I had a selection of my rolling stock in one of my cabinets in my home office. Despite not having anywhere to run anything, I continued to purchase the odd model now and again and it served to balance my other cabinet which holds some of my Star Wars stuff.

Thankfully, now I've been told I can build something new, those trains will finally get to go somewhere.

I didn't have any ideas, so I had a look around the internet for some inspiration and I found a user submitted design that I've remade in SCARM and heavily modified.

My criteria for the layout is wide and varied and is listed below.

1: A place to show off my kits in an in-context environment and also serve as an inspiration board to come up with new ideas for kits.
2: I want to have movement. So I'm planning a continuous run setup. One of my pet hates is seeing a consist on tight curves, so the plan is to hide all the curves under the scenery, apart from the eastern station approach.
3: Not only do I want an urban scene, but I also like to sit for several hours watching trains trundle through the countryside for no readily apparent reason. With that in mind and rather like Charles Dickens' biography of Dolly Parton, A Tail of Two Titties, this will be a dual sided board. One side housing the station and town, the other running through some low hills and a viaduct in the middle.
4: In the last ten years I have also acquired grandchildren. So I've designed something that is stupidly complicated in regards to freight operations that will give the two girls some interesting shunting problems. 
5: Location. The area of operation I have in mind is around the Basingstoke area. Somewhere fictitious on the London to Southampton line. This will allow EMUs, freight and HSTs to run through.
6: Station buildings and canopy. I want the station to look like it continues straight, while it in fact curves out of view. That way I can have longish length rakes without seeing them hang out the back.
7: Parcels platform and office. 
8: Light goods operations.
9: Stabling for locos, carriages and EMUs.

The elephant in the room is the fact that due to space constraints, I am forced to use chicane points. I would love to use medium radius points, but I'd need considerable more space. It's really going to bug me, as it's going to look like a Hornby train set, but beyond compromising the design to something that isn't as much fun, I'm stuck.

I still have no idea how this will fit into my office, have no budget for wood or track and I'm definitely not biting off more than I can chew in the same way Jaws didn't bite off more than he could chew when he ruined Chief Brody's afternoon...

It's going to be a long road and probably won't have a lot of updates for a while. I need to sell one of my motorbikes to fund the entire thing and as we don't seem to be getting a summer this year, that won't be easy.

Until next time.

Best

Daniel



 

[froobyone]

Hello all.

Long time no post. Reason being, I've made no progress on an OO layout. I had worked out that to give the layout enough room to breath and not be so setrack-looking, I was going to need a baseboard roughly the size of Kent. I knew I had to shelve the plan until I got around to buying Kent.

This realisation made me somewhat glum, but recently while discussing what I'd like for Christmas, the thought struck me. Maybe I could realise my dream in TT:120? The dream being full rake original liveried HSTs sweeping majestically though stations and countryside alike. Obviously at time of writing that isn't actually possible, but a sound equipped Scotsman set will be ravenously opened on the 25th.

So I drastically revised the original plan, partly because sometimes less is more and mostly because have-you-seen-the-price-of-turnouts... I still want a continuous run, four tracks through a station, some light shunting possibilities and on the other side, sweeping through a country setting with a viaduct in the middle like my first plan and also, annoyingly almost exactly the same as Hornby Magazine's exhibition layout. I posted my plan first. Remember that. :P

I still really want to have an angle like the first plan, so the new plan will probably be rotated slightly. I haven't blocked out any of the features as yet as I'm not really used to the scale as of writing. However, in preparation for the 25th, I have, I believe, bought up the last UK stocks of turnouts (sorry) and 30-odd flexi tracks. All Peco Code 55. Additionally I purchased the BR Blue 08, a single bauxite wagon, some Dapol magnetic couplers and a static grass applicator. So if nothing else goes right, at least I can make a hairy gronk.

I have to make a trip to B&Q at the weekend to buy some ply and framing, but I have to make my friend come to his own conclusion that his Volvo estate is going to be a better wood carrier than my coupe. It's OK, the force can have a strong influence on the weak minded.

Here's the rub. I am no carpenter in the wood sense. I'm barely a Carpenter in the "We've only just begun" sense either... So I approach this with some trepidation. The plan is for nine equally sized baseboards, that will slot together like the parts of a Breitling watc- be hammered together until they fit dammit. It has to be portable. I live in a 18th century farmhouse that sometimes feels like it's been a house long enough and it just wants to rest now. Plus, who knows, maybe I'll fluke enough goodness into the build that I want to take it to a show. I think I might struggle using the force to get my mate to buy a massive van though. Stranger things have happened. I got him to buy a Laverda once.

There is a secondary motive. I couldn't justify this amount of spend otherwise. My aim is to make as much as I can for the build using my laser cutters and 3d printers and anything I make, that I think I can turn into a kit, I will do so and sell them on ebay.

As things develop I will obviously keep this thread as frequently updated as possible, but in tandem to this, I'm also going to chronicle the build on YouTube. Which is biting off more than I can chew, but trust me, that's exactly my MO, because I'm an idiot. Who else would put three Arduinos in a studio scale Millennium Falcon despite not knowing a pigging thing about machine code. Hi. Nice to meet you. 

And so, yet again, I give myself the hardest hill to climb. The path of most resistance -but as Nietzsche famously said "That which does not kill you, will come back in your 50s and really give you jip". I'm paraphrasing. 

Thanks for reading and if you didn't read it, you didn't read this bit either. Your mother was a hamster and your father smelled of elderberries.

Best

Daniel




 

[froobyone]

Cripes! Five months between posts and then two come along at once! It's why my friends call me 55C. Not that two 55Cs ever came along at once. You'd be lucky if one came along at once.

Anyway, preamble over. Good news! The Dacia Sander-  no wait, wrong program.

Things have started to arrive. Those things being eleven turnouts in both male and female versions, I know I should be more inclusive and have a double switch too, but they are costly.

As mentioned, I have not until now, ever seen TT:120 in the flesh. So I wasn't sure what to expect. I've had OO for 95% of my railway modelling life. I did have a brief flirtation with N twenty years ago, but didn't gel with it. My biggest issue, and this goes for accessible OO and N is how the rails look in relation to the rolling stock. I don't have the skills for P4, but I want the P4 aesthetic. 

I was hoping, as I gingerly released the first turnout from its card prison, that I would finally get to see that aesthetic. Then I realised I wasn't going to until I put some stock on it. Alas, at time of writing, the roster is bare. I mention this next bit, purely in the spirit of painting a fuller picture. The roster may be bare, but in this house as a write this, there are Pullman coaches and a 4-6-2 in a box in the next room. Now obviously only a devious and despicable cad would be tempted to wait until she-who-will-murder-you-in-your-sleep-if-you-touch-that-box goes to bed, skilfully decant one of the aforementioned Pullmans and see what it looks like on track. I wouldn't even think about something like that. It took me an hour to write that last bit. That's how honest and upstanding I am. I had to get into "character" and try to think like one of those reprehensible people that the Daily Mail probably have a column on, sorry, I mean who writes a column for them.

What was we talking about? I've clean forgot. Honest me. I wouldn't have even eyed the flap release to see if it was taped (it isn't).

No. I can be patient until the 08 and vent van arrives, sometime after the sun has started to fuse iron.

But in other news, I spoke to my mate about b&q and he suggested that it might be easier to do the wood run in his car and he's available Sunday afternoon. Amazing. Did not realise the force could be used over WhatsApp. I'm going to up the ante next time and see if I can get some point motors. I need eleven of the , plus faceplates, plus accessory switches, plus a small but reliable cold fusion generator. CDUs are so last year...

And finally. I've had to shave 600mm off the length of the build because it really didn't leave me any wiggle room, so whilst I have lost a few scale metres of trackwork, it's taken the number of 2.4m x 1.2m boards from three down to two and with savings like that, I'll be able to afford a wire for point motor, on the off chance I find the famous Saxon hoard of point motors with my metal detector. But most evidence suggests that'll be found down in the West Country and I live in East Yorkshire.

 

I still haven't figured out how I'm going to support it. I had planned on encouraging comments and compliments, but I've since discovered, they are useless against gravity. Also decisions on height. It can't be too low because my back will leave and move to Spain if I have to lean over too much during construction, but I also want my grandkids to be able to enjoy it. Obvs there will be a sign up reminding all that one looks with one's eyes, not with ones chocolate covered fingers. I'm joking. There won't be a sign. Just a mildly energized electric fence...

I think the answer to most of my yet-to-decides will be decided when I started laying track on (insert preferred underlay). Until then, I'm going to try not to worry about it and instead and for no reason at all, check how quietly a person can open cardboard boxes.

Added pics, because show, don't te- ah .

Also the first TT:120 scale houses prototype.

Until next time.

Daniel

 

[froobyone]

Hi all

Spent a few fretful hours today working out the the number of deciduous forest that will have to be felled to create the baseboards. All of them. Every forest. That doesn't bode well for the grandkids, but they'll at least get to learn about light shunting before the sea levels rise over the top of the baseboards and short the electrics out.

Joking aside, as much as I love the environment and wish to safeguard it for future generations, I couldn't give two light shunts about the wood and care more about the cost. -_- I realise wood is expensive. After all, it doesn't grow on tress, but that B&Q trip tomorrow is going to be a hard pill to swallow. It's my fault for not costimating(sic) earlier. I costed the plywood top and didn't factor in the frames and probably more importantly, the legs. It's partly due to the fact that I couldn't work out what I exactly needed when buying wood stock in 2.4m lengths and mostly because I couldn't work out I exactly needed when buying wood stock in 2.4m lengths. I'm not good at math. So I ended up having to draw everything out in 2d, and then draw the wood stock and fit them together. It's a long process but if you're as rubbish at this stuff as me, it really helps. Using this fool proof method I've worked out that I need 7658m of wood at a cost of £17,856 no, I'm kidding. 

It runs to

2X 2.4mx1.2m 9mm ply
20x 2.4mx75mmx22mm timber
100 screws
Bolt and nuts x 30
Washers
The Saxon point motor hoard.

I don't even know why I'm gently weeping at the cost, I've literally paid more than that for virtual spaceships in Star Citizen and that isn't even real (or likely to ever be finished...)

All being well they'll have everything I need when I visit tomorrow and I'll be able to make a start. I am slightly wishing I made better life choices in my past that meant I had an arsenal of power tools at my disposal, but alas, I paid real money for internet spaceships (sigh). I have one of those ancient things that I read about in double history on a Wednesday afternoon in the 80s. Greeks had them I think. Called a saw or something like that. It's like a long piece of bendy metal with an angry bit at the bottom. I think they were originally designed for people who thought they had way too many fingers. Really not looking forward to that part. My one hope is my easily force-controlled mate has a table saw that I can whip round and use. Obviously I'm going to try and mind control him into buying me a table saw in B&Q first. I'm not an idiot.

In other news, I ttified(sic) another of my OO kits today. Prototype phase first. I actually didn't think I was going to be able to do this one due to the stairs being 3d printed. All the tests I did in TT scale failed. The hand rails are just too thin. So I thought about it over a beer and decided I could do the stairs as the solid concrete type. It slightly bugs me because they aren't like on the real one, but it's either that or it's going to be anarchy on the metals.

and finally. I've been putting some thought into point control. I will be forced to have remote control over them as some of them are miles away. I haven't decided yet what that will be. Well, I know what it won't be. Cobolts and Tortoise are out of the question, wonderful as they are. So that leaves either Peco/Seep track bangers or servo operated with an Arduino. I'm even toying with the idea of mechanically operated with point rodding. I did the point rodding thing with Hullbridge and it was a delight.
Ordinarily I would say these are future-me problems, but I kinda need to know early on as that will dictate drilling holes etc.

Added some pics of the ttified signal box prototype so you can see the stairs. Do you think they will work?

I also added the wood plan/costimate as I'm sure I was told you should always show your working out.

Until next time

Adieu

Daniel
 

[froobyone]

It's all fun and games until someone actually buys some wood.

I managed a successful sortie to B&Q, bought up the last stick timber, had my boards cut to size and got told off for blocking a fire exit.

Once home, I grabbed a pic for the album and then laid everything flat. It was only then that I could grasp the task ahead of me. I had worked out that I would need to do 80 saws. My torn rotator cuff took one look at the task ahead of me, said stuff that, took control of my arm and bought a chop saw on Ebay. Probably for the best.

I'll spend the next couple of days marking up and wait for the angry spinning disc of finger removal to arrive. After that progress will be very much weather dependant. Whilst I do have access to a Workshop (it's a shed), said shed is filled with laser cutters and a metal lathe, so it's a bit tight in there. Should we have a wet spell my plans will be scuppered. There is a well known rule about buying astronomy equipment, another of my hobbies, in that any new purchase will inevitably lead to solid cloud for three weeks. This I know to be true. I don't know if similar laws apply to chop saws. We will see.

In other news, Hornby have dispatched my little 08 and vent van, so that should arrive next week. If a sale of some audio gear goes to plan, I'll be able to buy the 8-pin HM7000 sound decoder and butche- I mean skilfully and deftly fit a massive chip into a small loco body.

And finally. I'm scared. I admit it. I have never embarked on a build of this scale before. I know there are obstacles to overcome that I haven't even thought of yet. However, at least have a plan. Something I have never started a build with in the past. I have usually made it up as I went along, preferring the Bob Ross happy accidents approach. Damn. that's made me think about trees and that's another obstacle to overcome. It'll be fun soon right?

Best

Daniel
 

[froobyone]

Hi all.

Literally a back-breaking day today, rearranging my office/music room to allow the building of the layout. Still work to do and a new home to find for the TV and cabinet. Almost everything in the room is in a temporary position and I hate it! It'll get there though. If there's any confusion in the room photo, the entire back wall is a mirror, for no readily apparent reason. 

In other news. The Gronk and van arrived today. It marked the first time I'd seen rolling stock in this scale. Definitely smaller than I imagined, but once I'd put it under my scientific microscope, I could really see the detail. Quiet remarkable detail to be honest. I'm super happy with them. I also took the opportunity to fit my Dapol easy shunt couplers. Again marking the first time I've used something other than tension hook couplers since I was 5 years old. I can't believe how tiny they are and they look mint. Waiting for my magnets to arrive so I can test the uncouple/shunt features. I also need to source the 8-pin decoder and have a fretful few hours fitting it.  I happened upon some spare super tiny LEDS that I bought to put in a 1/32 F14 Tomcat. So I'll think I'll try to light the 08 too.

And finally. Having now seen some stock on the track I can report that the ratio between track and body width is the aesthetic I've been looking for.

I hope this frequent updates aren't becoming annoying, but I'm really trying to document all the things that are happening. Once the building in earnest starts I'm pretty sure they'll start to drop in frequency.

Thank you for your patience.

Daniel

[froobyone]

Hi all.

I was all set to start cutting the frames this week, but some weather has happened and that's prevented me from working outside. As soon as the weather stops I'll get right on it.

I manged to get hold of a TXS 8-pin decoder for my 08. I knew ahead of time that it wouldn't fit without some remodelling and I'd planned to whip my rotary tool out and fettle away. However, I couldn't find the box of accessories. During the search for aforementioned accessories, I did find my white Humbrol weathering powder, put it down somewhere safe and now for the life of me, I can't find it. So two of my jobs, the fettling and fading/weathering were scuppered. To add insult to injury, when I went to use the power supply from the TT:120 Scotsman set, it was as dead as that famous parrot. It has not been a good day. 

However, my old layout was DCC so I've got a spare Roco 15v supply and was able to use that to power some track. I needed it powered because I wanted to test the decoder and pair it to my phone. I was then hit with the "reset decoder" issue. Not realising that would trigger an auto reset code email from Hornby, I did the turn-off-phone trick and that reset it. Once the firmware and other updates had applied I downloaded the 08 profile and waited very patiently for thirteen minutes.

I've never had a sound chip before, but I've wanted one from the first time I heard one many years ago. It was worth the wait, even if I had to label every wire because I'm colour-blind. Next will be sorting out lights and I may even try to machine a flywheel on the lathe. Not in this weather though!

Until next time

Daniel

[froobyone]

Hi all.

There was a small window of dryness and I managed to cut some of my framing wood. Managed to get 3 boards worth before the weather came back, but it's a start. Did my first glue up and screw-up. The non pilot hole needing screws would in fact have benefitted from a pilot hole...

Using whatever weight I could find to get a good bond. Don't read anything into the fact that it is mostly alcohol. :P

In other news. I started the gargantuan (for me) task of wiring and fitting the HM7000 decoder. By tea-time yesterday I had the chip hardwired in and was in the process of wiring in the lights when a wire must have touched something it shouldn't have and it blew up. So that's 65 quid down the drain. I've ordered a replacement at a good price, so I'll hopefully have better luck next time.

Whilst I waited for the new chip to arrive, I cracked on with the other work that needed completing before I can fit everything in the shell. I gently and very carefully took a diamond bit in the rotary tool to the area that needed removing/thinning. The scary part was, well, all of it. I had to remove the main posts at the front where the screws fix the shell in place. Too much off in that area and it might be too weak. I also had to remove material form the inside roof and mid way down the opposite side, so the chip can sit above the motor. So far so good.

Tomorrow I'll try again to hardwire the loco, lights etc and I also plan to machine a flywheel out of some brass stock.

Until next time

Daniel

Edited December 5, 2023 by froobyone

[froobyone]

Hi

I managed to machine a flywheel for the shunter. It's just some round-stock turned down to fit between the motor mounts and a 1mm hole drilled through it. Not sure what difference it will make, but it can't hurt.

 

I was waiting most of the day for my new decoder to arrive so I thought I'd take the opportunity to start the weathering process. I wanted to depict an extremely worn example. The period I'm modelling is the 1980s, when decay and underfunding was the livery. I found weathering at this scale really challenging, so think of this as a first go.

 

 

I still have the lights to fit and some tidy up, plus I am considering a chipping pass, but I'm not sure if I can do decent looking chipping at this scale. 

 

 

 

 

The body isn't secured in these photos.

I was going to ask how to add photos to the actual posts instead of an image dump, but I figured it out. 

Best

Dan

 

[TT100 Diesels]

Very nice work on the 08, faded blue and oily, just how they should be. I am also very impressed with just how much detail is packed into that little model, very impressive indeed.

 

I myself am on with exactly the same job also with an 08, but just a tiny 0.5mm / foot scale bigger ! A TT100 version, TT3 in old money, 3mm scale but running on 12mm Peco HOm track.

 

It's kind of funny we are both on with the exact same job in adjacent scales that share the same track gauge.

 

Best wishes

 

TT100 Diesels

 

[RobAllen]

22 hours ago, froobyone said:

I found weathering at this scale really challenging, so think of this as a first go.

Just found this thread. Interesting stuff and I'm following with interest. That 08 looks pretty good to me!

Edited December 7, 2023 by RobAllen

[froobyone]

Thank you both and sorry for late reply.

I've spent the last eight hours soldering recalcitrant wires to a decoder and it has not been the most fun I've ever had. After already blowing a decoder I absolutely didn't want to put this one on the track. However I had checked things probably seventeen times and whilst I wasn't confident any of it would work, because I'm an idiot, I knew I couldn't put it off. The shell and the chassis aren't together yet as I still have no idea how I'm going to stuff all the wires in there. That's future me problems and I have today me problems to deal with.

 

I gingerly put it on the track. It didn't blow up. Good start. I then had to update firmware get the 08 profile etc. Then it was a quick power off and on again and a press of the auto button. She's alive! Lights came on pointing the correct direction and the cab light worked too. I was only able to do this conversion because of the This Way Works on YouTube, but I decided to leave the floodlights out. I also didn't fit a stay alive, but I'm regretting that now as she's a terrible runner currently. I don't know if the profile needs tweaking from the OO 08 as that's the profile I'm using. There are two main problems, 1) maintaining electrical contact while moving and 2) the motor will not spin at a consistent rate. It's like it's hunting. Speeds up then slows down and repeats. I am no expert at DCC CVs so I'm a bit lost. 

Unfortunately, so few people have done this, there are few people I can ask. I did reach out to This Way Works, but I don't expect he'll be able to help.

So I'm going to chalk this up as a partial win, with some more investigation needed.

If anyone has any ideas, please drop them below.

Thank you

Dan

[bradfordbuffer]

1 hour ago, froobyone said:

Thank you both and sorry for late reply.

I've spent the last eight hours soldering recalcitrant wires to a decoder and it has not been the most fun I've ever had. After already blowing a decoder I absolutely didn't want to put this one on the track. However I had checked things probably seventeen times and whilst I wasn't confident any of it would work, because I'm an idiot, I knew I couldn't put it off. The shell and the chassis aren't together yet as I still have no idea how I'm going to stuff all the wires in there. That's future me problems and I have today me problems to deal with.

 

I gingerly put it on the track. It didn't blow up. Good start. I then had to update firmware get the 08 profile etc. Then it was a quick power off and on again and a press of the auto button. She's alive! Lights came on pointing the correct direction and the cab light worked too. I was only able to do this conversion because of the This Way Works on YouTube, but I decided to leave the floodlights out. I also didn't fit a stay alive, but I'm regretting that now as she's a terrible runner currently. I don't know if the profile needs tweaking from the OO 08 as that's the profile I'm using. There are two main problems, 1) maintaining electrical contact while moving and 2) the motor will not spin at a consistent rate. It's like it's hunting. Speeds up then slows down and repeats. I am no expert at DCC CVs so I'm a bit lost. 

Unfortunately, so few people have done this, there are few people I can ask. I did reach out to This Way Works, but I don't expect he'll be able to help.

So I'm going to chalk this up as a partial win, with some more investigation needed.

If anyone has any ideas, please drop them below.

Thank you

Dan

Brill work....love the signal box above...for the 08 marker lights unless used on the main line for transfer or trip working the 08 should have at least one red and one white light displayed at each end, not switched between directions driven in. most 08s marker lights have a hinged front face to access the lenses so removed for white inplace for red...most pre 2000 had a little toggle switches under each marker hence the reason why top marker fell out of fashion due to fizzy knitting, some in later years where fitted with flood lights for the shunter to see coupleing during hrs of darkness and some fitted with BR sealed beam headlights for transfer / trip working ...check photos for each prototype. 

Look forward to further updates.

G

[froobyone]

46 minutes ago, bradfordbuffer said:

Brill work....love the signal box above...for the 08 marker lights unless used on the main line for transfer or trip working the 08 should have at least one red and one white light displayed at each end, not switched between directions driven in. most 08s marker lights have a hinged front face to access the lenses so removed for white inplace for red...most pre 2000 had a little toggle switches under each marker hence the reason why top marker fell out of fashion due to fizzy knitting, some in later years where fitted with flood lights for the shunter to see coupleing during hrs of darkness and some fitted with BR sealed beam headlights for transfer / trip working ...check photos for each prototype. 

Look forward to further updates.

G

Thank you. I didn't know that about the marker lights. It will be tasked with some trip freight on the mainline, so I may have to leave them in an incorrect configuration for shunting. I think I can live with it, after all, I lived with red marker lights on the backs of locos hauling a rake for long enough. :)

Thanks again for the info.

Dan

[RobAllen]

I'm planning to go DCC and have a lot of pre-DCC-Ready locos to convert. That's a lot of wires!

[froobyone]

4 hours ago, RobAllen said:

I'm planning to go DCC and have a lot of pre-DCC-Ready locos to convert. That's a lot of wires!

Hi Rob.

Don't be put off. Most of those wires are for (incorrect) lighting. Without those it's only four wires and a lead for the speaker. I have converted non DCC ready OO locos in the past and it wasn't too bad a job, despite being colour-blind.

Good luck with your conversions. :)

Dan 

[froobyone]

Hi all

Quick update. I've sorted the gronk's running problems. I re-bent the wipers arms on the wheels, cleaned wheels and pickups with isopropyl alcohol which sorted the connection problems (ish) and the speed issue was down to the motor being just a little too tight on the gear. That was a bit of a worry, as the motor is super glued in place due to having to remove the motor bracket to fit the encoder in. However, a little application of heat soon freed it off. I think I'll come up with a new solution to holding the motor in place. Unfortunately the application of heat also melted some of my chassis top, so that's going to need a bit of plasticard. :-/

I've also decided to bite the bullet and fit a stay alive and to that end, removed the large chunk of metal that would impede its fitment today. Very careful hacksawing needed, but it went without a hitch.

The weather was also sort of dry today, so I managed to cut almost all of my framing wood, save for two 550mm pieces. I'm on to my third board glue up and will hopefully have the rest completed over the weekend. Then I hope, the fun begins, but I say that with the full knowledge that my future also includes ballasting and painting rail sides...

Until next time
 

Dan

[ikcdab]

On 25/11/2023 at 23:21, froobyone said:

Hi all

Spent a few fretful hours today working out the the number of deciduous forest that will have to be felled to create the baseboards. All of them. Every forest. That doesn't bode well for the grandkids, but they'll at least get to learn about light shunting before the sea levels rise over the top of the baseboards and short the electrics out.

Joking aside, as much as I love the environment and wish to safeguard it for future generations, I couldn't give two light shunts about the wood and care more about the cost. -_- I realise wood is expensive. After all, it doesn't grow on tress, but that B&Q trip tomorrow is going to be a hard pill to swallow. It's my fault for not costimating(sic) earlier. I costed the plywood top and didn't factor in the frames and probably more importantly, the legs. It's partly due to the fact that I couldn't work out what I exactly needed when buying wood stock in 2.4m lengths and mostly because I couldn't work out I exactly needed when buying wood stock in 2.4m lengths. I'm not good at math. So I ended up having to draw everything out in 2d, and then draw the wood stock and fit them together. It's a long process but if you're as rubbish at this stuff as me, it really helps. Using this fool proof method I've worked out that I need 7658m of wood at a cost of £17,856 no, I'm kidding. 

It runs to

2X 2.4mx1.2m 9mm ply
20x 2.4mx75mmx22mm timber
100 screws
Bolt and nuts x 30
Washers
The Saxon point motor hoard.

I don't even know why I'm gently weeping at the cost, I've literally paid more than that for virtual spaceships in Star Citizen and that isn't even real (or likely to ever be finished...)

All being well they'll have everything I need when I visit tomorrow and I'll be able to make a start. I am slightly wishing I made better life choices in my past that meant I had an arsenal of power tools at my disposal, but alas, I paid real money for internet spaceships (sigh). I have one of those ancient things that I read about in double history on a Wednesday afternoon in the 80s. Greeks had them I think. Called a saw or something like that. It's like a long piece of bendy metal with an angry bit at the bottom. I think they were originally designed for people who thought they had way too many fingers. Really not looking forward to that part. My one hope is my easily force-controlled mate has a table saw that I can whip round and use. Obviously I'm going to try and mind control him into buying me a table saw in B&Q first. I'm not an idiot.

In other news, I ttified(sic) another of my OO kits today. Prototype phase first. I actually didn't think I was going to be able to do this one due to the stairs being 3d printed. All the tests I did in TT scale failed. The hand rails are just too thin. So I thought about it over a beer and decided I could do the stairs as the solid concrete type. It slightly bugs me because they aren't like on the real one, but it's either that or it's going to be anarchy on the metals.

and finally. I've been putting some thought into point control. I will be forced to have remote control over them as some of them are miles away. I haven't decided yet what that will be. Well, I know what it won't be. Cobolts and Tortoise are out of the question, wonderful as they are. So that leaves either Peco/Seep track bangers or servo operated with an Arduino. I'm even toying with the idea of mechanically operated with point rodding. I did the point rodding thing with Hullbridge and it was a delight.
Ordinarily I would say these are future-me problems, but I kinda need to know early on as that will dictate drilling holes etc.

Added some pics of the ttified signal box prototype so you can see the stairs. Do you think they will work?

I also added the wood plan/costimate as I'm sure I was told you should always show your working out.

Until next time

Adieu

Daniel
 

Just found this thread and it's looking good. I see yourb comments about the price of timber. It's down the for flakes embedded in it.

But the baseboard is the most important thing. Without a decent foundation, the whole layout is in jeapordy.

You have done the right thing, but on other threads I have seen people baulk at spending £150 on timber for a decent baseboard, but will happily shell out the same amount for a single locomotive. 

[Porfuera]

On 07/12/2023 at 22:29, froobyone said:

I don't know if the profile needs tweaking from the OO 08 as that's the profile I'm using. There are two main problems, 1) maintaining electrical contact while moving and 2) the motor will not spin at a consistent rate. It's like it's hunting. Speeds up then slows down and repeats. I am no expert at DCC CVs so I'm a bit lost. 

 

I know you've said in a later post that you have now sorted your 08's motor problems (more or less) but given that you're having to use the sound profile for the 00 Class 08 model, you can run an auto-calibrate using CV149 - the auto-calibrate should tune the CVs to be more suitable for the TT:120 motor. The instructions are in the linked post below.

 

The "Hornby 2023 - Bluetooth decoders and control system" thread is very useful and the writer of that particular post (RAF96) is a Hornby beta tester so he knows what he's talking about. Unfortunately the thread is now up to 85 pages so all the really useful information is now buried amongst pages of the usual types of discussions found on Hornby-related threads... That said, it might be worth a follow for future reference - I've learned quite a lot from following it.

 

I'd already watched the 'This Way Works' video about the TT:120 Class 08 sound conversion and I was amazed at what he managed to fit in - it is well worth watching for the micro-engineering 'expertise' alone! One thing that surprised me is that your TXS 8-pin sound decoder is pretty much the same size as the Next-18 decoder that he used. I had assumed that the 8-pin sound decoder would be smaller - you live and learn!

 

Anyway, I'd just like to add that this is a great thread (especially your 08 conversion) and I'm looking forward to future updates! Good luck with the rest of the project.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Neil.

 

P.S. - Just in case I haven't linked to the correct post, the auto-calibrate instructions are as follows:

 

"Each sound profile is tuned to its associated loco, be that in OO or TT . That usually works fine.

If the default control is inadequate say because the Hornby profile has been installed in another loco make, then there is auto-calibrate. This usually corrects any cross-make mismatch and is a simple procedure requiring F0 to be set to off before you start as this is the trigger. Set CV149 to value 0 to arm the system. Press F0 and the loco will race off at max chat for around 2 metres then stop. Procedure complete. CV149 is now set to value 2 and the motor PID CVs are set accordingly. FO reverts to controlling the lights.

In the event auto-cal is not good enough then full manual adjustment of the motor PID characteristics is possible. The whole process is detailed in the 130 page decoder manual.

I have found any disparate loco will reliably run back and forth on my shuttle track using speed step one after auto-cal."

 

 

 

Edited December 9, 2023 by Porfuera

[froobyone]

4 hours ago, Porfuera said:

 

I know you've said in a later post that you have now sorted your 08's motor problems (more or less) but given that you're having to use the sound profile for the 00 Class 08 model, you can run an auto-calibrate using CV149 - the auto-calibrate should tune the CVs to be more suitable for the TT:120 motor. The instructions are in the linked post below.

 

The "Hornby 2023 - Bluetooth decoders and control system" thread is very useful and the writer of that particular post (RAF96) is a Hornby beta tester so he knows what he's talking about. Unfortunately the thread is now up to 85 pages so all the really useful information is now buried amongst pages of the usual types of discussions found on Hornby-related threads... That said, it might be worth a follow for future reference - I've learned quite a lot from following it.

 

I'd already watched the 'This Way Works' video about the TT:120 Class 08 sound conversion and I was amazed at what he managed to fit in - it is well worth watching for the micro-engineering 'expertise' alone! One thing that surprised me is that your TXS 8-pin sound decoder is pretty much the same size as the Next-18 decoder that he used. I had assumed that the 8-pin sound decoder would be smaller - you live and learn!

 

Anyway, I'd just like to add that this is a great thread (especially your 08 conversion) and I'm looking forward to future updates! Good luck with the rest of the project.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Neil.

 

P.S. - Just in case I haven't linked to the correct post, the auto-calibrate instructions are as follows:

 

"Each sound profile is tuned to its associated loco, be that in OO or TT . That usually works fine.

If the default control is inadequate say because the Hornby profile has been installed in another loco make, then there is auto-calibrate. This usually corrects any cross-make mismatch and is a simple procedure requiring F0 to be set to off before you start as this is the trigger. Set CV149 to value 0 to arm the system. Press F0 and the loco will race off at max chat for around 2 metres then stop. Procedure complete. CV149 is now set to value 2 and the motor PID CVs are set accordingly. FO reverts to controlling the lights.

In the event auto-cal is not good enough then full manual adjustment of the motor PID characteristics is possible. The whole process is detailed in the 130 page decoder manual.

I have found any disparate loco will reliably run back and forth on my shuttle track using speed step one after auto-cal."

 

 

 

Thank you so much for this. I would have never found that information on the Hornby forum and I've been trawling that recently. I will try the calibration tomorrow.

Earlier today I "borrowed" the track from my Scotsman set and laid it out on two of my boards and then ran it for a good 30 mins in both directions, as per running-in advice. It does seem to be running a lot better, but it will still occasionally stall. I've got a stay alive on order, but to be honest, there's no way I'm going to be able to fit it in the space that's left. My space problems stem from having to use normal resistors instead of the micro ones that TWW uses. Five of them are taking up a lot of room.

I'm considering a bit of a cheat regarding the stay alive. Namely, permanently coupling a brake and having a stay alive in it wired to the shunter. Of course the only brake vans available are Era 4, along with my vent van. However, as I'm going to have to stretch believability anyway due to a complete lack of 80s rolling stock, I can live with it. If it's even possible. We shall see.

Constructed another baseboard today, leaving only two of the big ones and three half-sized ones left.

While I was running in the 08 earlier I was taken aback by how satisfying it was just to sit and watch it trundle by. I've not been able to watch a diesel train trundle by for over twenty years. I have had steam trains running via DC for the grandkids to play with, but only set up on a big table and put away again. I'm even more pleased that I opted for a continuous run layout.

That's all for now. I'm off to think up a backstory as to why an LNER built Toad is still in use on the Western Region in 1984...

Best

Dan

 

[froobyone]

Hi all.

Not much of an update today. More baseboard construction. I did miss my target of completion, mostly due to the fact that I broke one of my clamps with my tremendously muscular gri- no, they were made of plastic. That meant that I could only clamp three sides at once, thus delaying things somewhat. 

In other news, the plucky 08 is running much better now. I tried to do an auto calibrate today, but for some reason the HM7000 app wouldn't let me arm it. I did however manage to drop the brightness of my (incorrect) running lights. It's nice to not have a portable sun on the front.

I am, as yet unable to properly seat the shell on the chassis. There is a .5mm gap due to, well, physics. I'll have another fettle with the wiring as I have to dismantle it soon anyway because the stay alive will need wiring in, just so I can test it's viability, despite not having room to fit it...

The net vexing issue was going to be the legs, but I've formed a plan as to their construction/ease of removal, leaving only the question of height. As mentioned previously, I'd like it to be enjoyed by my granddaughters, but (mainly) enjoyed by me -because neither of them are lifting a finger to help me build it! :D The main track level will be elevated above the base board on the town side to facilitate the viaduct on the other side. I also, for some unknown reason, want to see the mainline go over an urban road bridge. I have in mind the bridge/low key tunnel at York. I think it's nice to be able to look up at trains. It's a familiar viewpoint. After all, none of us were born as camera drones.

I've spent a few days thinking about what I'm trying to create. I know it certainly isn't a prototypical rendition of something historical. I have neither the knowledge nor the will to be able to execute something like that with anything near the skill needed. Also, I've never really understood where the line is drawn. Sure, there a big bold lines drawn like don't run an Southern EMU in Carlisle but the finer lines, such as "this class 37 never went north of Wigan" I mean, if you're going to be that exact, does that mean you have to make sure that each and every flower and tree is correct for the region and season? I take my hat of to those who really can go that far. It's a real talent. Me however, I'm not trying to create a day in a year in a region, I'm trying to create a memory. A fuzzy memory of what made the railways great. The things that made me fizz with excitement as a child. If I can create that feeling again. Then every minute of toil, will be worth it.

Best

Dan

 

 

 

[froobyone]

Hi all,

Well it's been a case of one step up, two steps back this week. I did finally finish baseboard construction and had moved on to the legs and that's where my problems started. 

 

My plan had been to drill through the side rails and attach the legs with bolts, however, I had not factored in how the bloody thing would go together. In that it wouldn't. Also, having finally laid out all the baseboards on the floor, I was hit with how big it's going to be. Like too big. It'll fit in the space, but I better not have a Ferrero Roche over Christmas, or I'm not going to. I did consider going down to two boards deep, but after spending a couple of hours redesigning the track plan to fit, I hated it. It just wasn't what I wanted from this. I'll have to be brave and stick to the original plan. 

Once I realised my (stupid) leg plan was a bust, I had to shell out from some folding leg brackets. In between cutting and dispatching some models kits today, I managed to fit four of them to a board, only to discover with much glee that the screws are too long and now I've got pretty effective tank traps/finger gougers on the top of the baseboard. I scratched my finger pretty bad, but on the plus side, it stopped a Panzer III. I'll need some shorter screws and that'll be sorted.

In other news. I had a problem with my initial Hornby DCC power supply that came with the Scotsman set. I spoke to support and they very quickly dealt with the problem by sending me another power supply. It would have been nicer if it had been the correct power supply, but it's the thought that counts. No it isn't. I had to message again to explain and they very quickly sent the correct one. I can't complain at the service. It was polite and efficient. However and this is an indication my week I guess, when I plugged it in, I still couldn't get power to the track. The connector between the supply and the two-pin only works when you put pressure on it. I'm not going to trouble Hornby again, I'll figure something else out. I won't be using the Hornby connector track anyway, as I'm all Peco code 55.

and finally. I managed to source a bunch of Peco point motors off eBay. There was twelve of them that had been taken from a layout and that's exactly how many I need. I couldn't believe my luck. It was an auction but with offers allowed. I made an offer and it was accepted. The icing on the cake was they also all have the accessory switches and a couple have CDUs. Very much looking forward to electrocuting myself and possibly the cat.

Until next bzzzzzzzzzzt! 

Dan

[Ravenser]

On 09/12/2023 at 20:01, froobyone said:

That's all for now. I'm off to think up a backstory as to why an LNER built Toad is still in use on the Western Region in 1984...

Best

Dan

 

 

A GW Toad is available in TT:120 from Osborns as 3D RTR . Some of those were still in engineers' use in1984

[froobyone]

2 minutes ago, Ravenser said:

 

A GW Toad is available in TT:120 from Osborns as 3D RTR . Some of those were still in engineers' use in1984

 
Marvellous. Thank you.

I've bookmarked the listing. If funds allow, I will pre-order.

Thanks again.