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No space for turnout motor under board, how best to resolve with solenoid motor


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Hi,

on my under-construction layout, I’m unable to avoid a few (Peco 00 code 100 streamline) turnouts where it’s not possible to mount the motor under the board (my preferred method).  This is generally due to baseboard (laser cut flat pack ply) bracing being in just the wrong place. I have mostly solenoid motors removed from previous layout. It seems to me I have a couple of options.

1. I mount the motor under the board but not directly under the turnout tiebar. So I’d need to use an extended cranked rod below the board.

2. I mount the motor above the board, and try to disguise with a building etc (maybe not necessary in storage yard area), and presumably attached the rod end to the ‘pimple’ on the end of the tie bar. As I am using 3mm cork over all the surface, I could cut a slot to house the horizontal rod out of sight.

I’d be grateful for thoughts on the two options, and any other ideas. And what to use for the rod? And how to attach to the ‘pimple’?

thanks

Ian

Edited by ITG
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42 minutes ago, ITG said:

Hi,

on my under-construction layout, I’m unable to avoid a few (Peco 00 code 100 streamline) turnouts where it’s not possible to mount the motor under the board (my preferred method).  This is generally due to baseboard (laser cut flat pack ply) bracing being in just the wrong place. I have mostly solenoid motors removed from previous layout. It seems to me I have a couple of options.

1. I mount the motor under the board but not directly under the turnout tiebar. So I’d need to use an extended cranked rod below the board.

2. I mount the motor above the board, and try to disguise with a building etc (maybe not necessary in storage yard area), and presumably attached the rod end to the ‘pimple’ on the end of the tie bar. As I am using 3mm cork over all the surface, I could cut a slot to house the horizontal rod out of sight.

I’d be grateful for thoughts on the two options, and any other ideas. And what to use for the rod? And how to attach to the ‘pimple’?

thanks

Ian

Do 2 and also remove the pimple and create a L on a wire; 9mm Brass ? Put it up through the Tie Bar hole. Not sure about the motor Pin end?

I have used a piece of that Brass coated plastic for making Sleepers for soldered track, as the bar, with a pin soldered on for the Tie bar and  hole drilled the other end for the Motor driving Pin. That has a trough cut in Cork Sheet, Staples holding in place and paper laid over it once fixed!

However one of those Peco or Gaugemaster Board Mounted Solenoids (about £12) and a Microswitch works and doesn't take much disguising.

Others will describe a much simpler way.

Phil

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The simple way would be a Peco PL11

https://peco-uk.com/products/side-mounted-turnout-motor
 

You can use them remotely with whatever mechanism you need to attach to the tie bar. There’s no easy answer to that as you will be making it up as you go.

B0681E8B-3A4F-4460-8487-011F51509FE0.jpeg.4e6682b393208191c263f9f60d811c35.jpeg
This is a PL11 and the actuation is by a wire in tube underneath the scenery /ballast

6B9EF98D-4A59-4EF3-9F1D-09899E5DCC4E.jpeg.275c747daa3e36dcd0ecb6e03f7f2200.jpeg

 

When completed they look ok

79D23832-87D2-478A-9542-49B71F8BAD36.jpeg.7c7ee7d0d09c0ccfd99961d2fdda784a.jpeg

Do use a Capacitor Discharge unit though, it ensures a positive ’throw’.

 

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