Newbie advice required to correct painting over enthusiasm..

[brossard]

23 minutes ago, Hal Nail said:

For me that's when you had a great finish but the varnish goes on badly.

 

 

That's what weathering is for.

 

John

[DCB]

35 minutes ago, brossard said:

That's what weathering is for.

 

John

"Weathered" is eBay speak for tatty and smeared with gunge to hide the damage.    Folk will pay good money for "Weathered" stuff which is tat over sprayed with all purpose (not car) rattle can Matt Black after being on eBay for weeks without any interest before being "Weathered"
Big issue is finish. Trying to make modified stock blend in with similar era  RTR.  Easy with blue grey and the eggshell finish but almost impossible with BR Carmine - Cream  or LNER Teak.....

[brossard]

1 hour ago, DCB said:

"Weathered" is eBay speak for tatty and smeared with gunge to hide the damage.    Folk will pay good money for "Weathered" stuff which is tat over sprayed with all purpose (not car) rattle can Matt Black after being on eBay for weeks without any interest before being "Weathered"
Big issue is finish. Trying to make modified stock blend in with similar era  RTR.  Easy with blue grey and the eggshell finish but almost impossible with BR Carmine - Cream  or LNER Teak.....

My comment was tongue in cheek.  I have seen many horrific weathering jobs and I hope mine are a far cry from that.

 

John

[DayReturn]

On 06/09/2023 at 14:22, DayReturn said:

 Spend happy hours chiselling out the little flecks that cling in the corners.

This example did not respond to Dettol, but responded rapidly to a solution specifically intended for stripping plastic models.  I can’t remember what the solution is called but it was on the model railway market maybe 30 years ago in the bottle in the picture, and I haven’t seen it around since.  I’ve got the label somewhere so if it turns up, I’ll add it.  
 

The backstory here is that I bought the carriage second hand.  It had been sprayed gloss lake (probably cellulose) and with a grey undercoat (probably etch primer). and the panelling lining had been attempted fairly coarsely in gold paint, probably Humbrol.  I oversprayed it and tried over and over to re-line it but the combined effect of the thick-setting Humbrol gold metallic, and the unevenness of the previous attempt at lining made it impossible for me to get decent lines from my pen.  The paint would flow off the pen line, helped by the fact that the honed pen broke the surface of the previous paint.  That also spoiled the flow of the pen tip itself.  So I gave up and tried to start stripping it using dettol.   That didn’t touch the red cellulose, but I would have had to scratch away to clear the original gold paint.  So I took out this aged bottle and got results in minutes.  All good, but of course I now have a tedious job to remove every fleck of wrinkled old paint.  I would have got the same result with cellulose thinners, but that would have damaged the internal plastic work.

Edited September 10, 2023 by DayReturn

[DayReturn]

Found the label of the mystery stripper.  It’s composed of 2-Propanol; Dimethyl carbinol  CAS #67-63-0; 2-Butoxyethanol CAS #111-76-2.  

[Torper]

If you've got an ultrasonic bath big enough to take a coach, it should also serve as an effective painstripper on both metals and plastic.  Pop the coach in the bath, add sufficient water, then add some concentrated ultrasonic cleaning fluid (mine was Allendale ultrasonic general purpose cleaning solution) at a ratio of about 1:10 (fluid:water) and a temperature of not less than 40 degrees,  Switch on and leave for about 45 minutes by which time the water vwill probably be considerably hotter.  Most paint will be off by then - scrub what is loose with an old toothbrush or similar and if necessary give it another 15 minutes in the bath.  Exactly the same principle applies with smaller unltrasonic baths and smaller items.

[LMRT]

I am going to try this formula from a 2011 post.  I have just ordered an airtight glass dish to put it in since it should be reusable until it is black tar. Has anyone else used this? I can't see any replies lording its success or cursing its failure. So I am going to test it myself.

 

[LMRT]

This didn't work... at all

[ejstubbs]

On 10/09/2023 at 11:46, DayReturn said:

Found the label of the mystery stripper.  It’s composed of 2-Propanol; Dimethyl carbinol  CAS #67-63-0; 2-Butoxyethanol CAS #111-76-2.  

 

For the avoidance of confusion: 2-Propanol and Dimethyl carbinol are the same thing - see "Other names" in this Wiki article.

 

Additional help to solve mystery can be found in this Wiki article which says of 2-Butoxyethanol:

 

2-Butoxyethanol ... is a colorless liquid [with] a sweet, ether-like odour.  It derives from the family of glycol ethers, and is a butyl ether of ethylene glycol [a.k.a. antifreeze].  As a relatively nonvolatile, inexpensive solvent it is used in many domestic and industrial products because of its properties as a surfactant. It is a known respiratory irritant and can be acutely toxic, but animal studies did not find it to be mutagenic, and no studies suggest it is a human carcinogen.  A study of 13 classroom air contaminants conducted in Portugal reported a statistically significant association with increased rates of nasal obstruction and a positive association below the level of statistical significance with a higher risk of obese asthma and increased child BMI.

 

Commercial uses

2-Butoxyethanol is a solvent for paints and surface coatings, as well as cleaning products and inks.  ... It is the main ingredient of many home, commercial and industrial cleaning solutions. Since the molecule has both polar and non-polarends, 2-butoxyethanol is useful for removing both polar and non-polar substances, like grease and oils.