Isolating Bullhead rail - Inspiration needed please!

[Captain_Mumbles]

I hope this is the right place, as it could be placed in other areas.

 

As the title suggests, I need inspiration for isolated rail joiners. So far, I am not using any isolated joiners on my hand laid points and I am just leaving a gap. But I can see this becoming a problem eventually. I have some plastic fish plates from the C&L sprues that I have. But one, they are difficult for me to obtain on my part of the planet and, two, if they are installed after the track is laid to avoid damage, they mostly fly apart trying to get them in.

 

Thanks for looking.

Ben

Edited October 2, 2023 by Captain_Mumbles
Grammar correction

[meil]

40 minutes ago, Captain_Mumbles said:

I hope this is the right place, as it could be placed in other areas.

 

As the title suggests, I need inspiration for isolated rail joiners. So far, I am not using any isolated joiners on my hand laid points and I am just leaving a gap. But I can see this becoming a problem eventually. I have some plastic fish plates from the C&L sprues that I have. But one, they are difficult for me to obtain on my part of the planet and, two, if they are installed after the track is laid to avoid damage, they mostly fly apart trying to get them in.

 

Thanks for looking.

Ben

For hand built and laid track a simple air gap is used - no rail joiners. C&L fish plates are installed at the time of laying the track, not after.

[Sitham Yard]

6 hours ago, Captain_Mumbles said:

I hope this is the right place, as it could be placed in other areas.

 

As the title suggests, I need inspiration for isolated rail joiners. So far, I am not using any isolated joiners on my hand laid points and I am just leaving a gap. But I can see this becoming a problem eventually. I have some plastic fish plates from the C&L sprues that I have. But one, they are difficult for me to obtain on my part of the planet and, two, if they are installed after the track is laid to avoid damage, they mostly fly apart trying to get them in.

 

Thanks for looking.

Ben

Not tried myself but in the past I have seen a very small amount of epoxy resin glue suggested. Leave to dry and then file smooth and to profile. 

Andrew

[Tankstage]

I've been using Peco "n" gauge isolators. Just glue one onto one end.

This is onto DCC Concepts Stainless Steel bullhead (Which also seems to fit into Finetrax kits OK).

Tank

[TheQ]

If you are not needing the alignment function of rail joiners but just need ensure isolation, 

Paint or glue.

[Captain_Mumbles]

These are all great ideas, thank you!!

[Stephen Freeman]

On 02/10/2023 at 17:59, Sitham Yard said:

Not tried myself but in the past I have seen a very small amount of epoxy resin glue suggested. Leave to dry and then file smooth and to profile. 

Andrew

You could try using them in the old style way. They were originally in 2 parts, so could be used after track laid. Just cut in two and superglue.

[Captain_Mumbles]

3 minutes ago, Stephen Freeman said:

You could try using them in the old style way. They were originally in 2 parts, so could be used after track laid. Just cut in two and superglue.

You mean cut the plastic fish plate? This can work! Cut biased to one side, insert into gap, and then glue the other side on?

[Stephen Freeman]

5 hours ago, Captain_Mumbles said:

You mean cut the plastic fish plate? This can work! Cut biased to one side, insert into gap, and then glue the other side on?

The originals were in 2 halves the middle portions were chamfered to maintain the gap but that is really optional as the method you suggested should work.

[Chrisbr]

I just glue some 5 or 10 thou plasticard to one end rail and once the glue has set, file to profile. Black blends in better than white.... Easier to do before hand, but perfectly possible in place

[Dominion]

I wish there were some stronger ones available.
 

I use Exactoscale plastic ones within track sections I am building and they seem to survive once installed.

But I have given up on using them on track ends when installing track section to section as they brake and ping off fairly quickly, after installation, I assume with temperature fluctuations.

 

I do use the clear Peco n-scale ones mentioned above on code 75 bullhead, but shortened on both sides of the break.

They don’t look very good but lots of my track is pinned and not ballasted yet and the rails or track seems to creep and create shorts without a mechanical insulation if some kind, and they are very hard to find. 
 

Perhaps if the layout is ever all ballasted and glued I will be able to remove the Peco clear plastic ones.

Their metal Bullhead ones are so good. I wish there were an insulated equivalent. 

Perhaps someone could design some more resilient than the Exactoscale ones and more discrete than the Peco n scale ones. 

Tom

[Captain_Mumbles]

On 05/10/2023 at 13:38, Dominion said:

I wish there were some stronger ones available.
 

I use Exactoscale plastic ones within track sections I am building and they seem to survive once installed.

But I have given up on using them on track ends when installing track section to section as they brake and ping off fairly quickly, after installation, I assume with temperature fluctuations.

 

I do use the clear Peco n-scale ones mentioned above on code 75 bullhead, but shortened on both sides of the break.

They don’t look very good but lots of my track is pinned and not ballasted yet and the rails or track seems to creep and create shorts without a mechanical insulation if some kind, and they are very hard to find. 
 

Perhaps if the layout is ever all ballasted and glued I will be able to remove the Peco clear plastic ones.

Their metal Bullhead ones are so good. I wish there were an insulated equivalent. 

Perhaps someone could design some more resilient than the Exactoscale ones and more discrete than the Peco n scale ones. 

Tom

The clear ones probably look OK after paint.