Traverser Construction

[St. Simon]

Hi,

 

I’m looking at converting my current cassette based fiddle yard to a Traverser type, but I want to check about methods of construction.

 

I have looked at pictures and videos of the construction of traversers and they all use a open frame construction and the draw runners are mounted as they would be in a draw, vertically (I hope that makes sense).

 

I’m thinking of building a normal baseboard and then mounting the draw runners vertically on the top and then just screwing a sheet of wood or a shelf on top of the runners.

 

I can’t see any fundamental problem with that but then I can’t see anybody else that has done the same thing. Is there any problem which that?

 

I know that a open frame would be lighter, but I don’t think we have the skills or proper tools to build an open frame.

 

Simon

[LMSfan72]

If I am understanding correctly I think it comes down to the mechanical design of the drawer runner. Those used on actual drawers will have the bearings orientated to take the load “vertically”. If they are rotated then the load is not as designed and they may not be smooth/work or fail.  I think of the 2 piece IKEA ones I have. They wouldn’t work at all in the other plane since the vertical load keeps them in contact. Others might of course!

[Guest]

Have you checked the Grainge & Hodder traverser kits?

[St. Simon]

8 hours ago, Gatesheadgeek said:

Have you checked the Grainge & Hodder traverser kits?

 

Hi,

 

Yes, but they don't do a 5ft long version which is what I need, plus the cost is slightly high for a pair of them!

 

Simon

[Jeremy Cumberland]

You want bottom mount or undermount drawer slides. They are still fitted to (or very near) the edges of the traverser, but you don't need a fixed vertical face.

[Guest]

4 hours ago, St. Simon said:

 

Hi,

 

Yes, but they don't do a 5ft long version which is what I need, plus the cost is slightly high for a pair of them!

 

Simon

 

they are expensive but thought that they might give some ideas around construction of your traverser 

[Dunalastair]

I used a pair of cheap ebay drawer runners for a very short (about 12") traverser in 6.5mm gauge (for a narrow gauge layout). I don't know whether they were undermount, but that is how I used them, and I seem to remember that they worked OK - but there was very little mass in the (perspex) traverser deck, track or stock.

[Siberian Snooper]

Open frame construction is not that difficult, if you can't square, invest in a mitre box, there's usually 3 slots 1 square and 2 at 45°. You clamp put your piece of wood in the U and either hold it or clamp it, the saw goes down the selected slot.  Drill the side members to take wood screws and countersink. Hold or clamp the side and cross member and screw them together, repeat as necessary. A couple of diagonals may be needed to stop the structure twisting, if you don't get an accurate cut on them a good dollop of PVA and a couple of pins will sort it. Don't put the diagonals where they will foul the runners.

 

 

[5BarVT]

I think G&H will do bespoke if you ask, so might be worth asking how much to extend to 5’.

Paul.

[burgundy]

The G & H traverser works well. I have two 3' units bolted together and would recommend the system. 

Best wishes 

Eric 

[tom s]

I'm attempting a simple cassette traverser using plasticard as the runner face. Made the 60cm cassettes with a jig-saw so none of them are perfectly straight, I used coffee stirrers, wood glued on to make a straight face on the front and back to mate to the plasticard, filling any gaps with milliput. I'd like to replace the cassettes with laser cut ones in future though as they don't butt up to each other straight enough to allow 2 cassettes to feed 1 road each into the 2 track station exit.

Edited November 26, 2023 by tom s