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Gluing brick paper to plastic


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Hi all,

I have just picked up a Hornby engine shed and goods shed. I do not want to use the sticky backed wall sheets that come with them. I want to play with them and alter them. So i have downloaded a new set of roof and wall textures.I was wondering what is the best glue to stick brick and roof paper to the plastic walls. Also what would be the best grade of paper to print on for this.

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15 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi all,

I have just picked up a Hornby engine shed and goods shed. I do not want to use the sticky backed wall sheets that come with them. I want to play with them and alter them. So i have downloaded a new set of roof and wall textures.I was wondering what is the best glue to stick brick and roof paper to the plastic walls. Also what would be the best grade of paper to print on for this.

You could print onto self adhesive A4 labels.

 

If paper I would use 250g/sqm. The glue I would use would be Roket card glue by Deluxe Materials.

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9 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi all,

I have just picked up a Hornby engine shed and goods shed. I do not want to use the sticky backed wall sheets that come with them. I want to play with them and alter them. So i have downloaded a new set of roof and wall textures.I was wondering what is the best glue to stick brick and roof paper to the plastic walls. Also what would be the best grade of paper to print on for this.

 

I use clear PVA to glue all my inkjet 'print at home' textured papers. Just make sure you have one of these to properly adhere the paper:

IMG_20220715_164103_resize.jpg.ee7deb80447709bc136ca0554dc017b2.jpg

 

For the paper, I've found that 100gsm is a good compromise. It's thick enough to 'feel good', and the glue doesn't penetrate through to the ink so long as you use it sparingly (and when it does, it does look like weathering!). 

 

I did originally use 'pritt sticks' (or similar equivalent), but I found them to be messy. When you go around the perimeter of anything, the glue inevitably ends up on your desk / work surface. With PVA I just use a small paint brush to apply the glue on small areas. For larger areas I spread it with an old toothbrush.

 

For the roof, it's well worth installing each row to tiles individually, overlapping as you go. It look so much better. Here's how I do mine:

IMG_20221231_205318_resize.jpg.932fef6eb7d7f799fe946b3c1acc8ff2.jpg

 

And installed on the building:

IMG_20230112_164415_resize.jpg.5c5e8b7bd2adc19c119a529a2aec5104.jpg

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ian

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I have had trouble gluing plastic brick sheets to laser cut structures in the past - I guess plastic to paper is similar to plastic to wood and my eventual solution was Rocket Card Glue, so I would second that suggestion.

The name led me to initially assume it was just for card kits, but it is much more versatile than that!

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My solution has been to do it in two steps.  First, use spray adhesive to glue plain photocopy paper (75 g/m2) to the work.  Next use a Pritt stick* (or similar) to glue the brick paper to the paper.  I have used brick printed on self adhesive labels.  These are pretty expensive though.

 

One issue I did encounter was warping.  My reasoning is that the plastic is impervious to humidity but paper is not.  So, thorough sealing may solve that.

 

* I have built a load of card buildings, mostly Scalescenes, in my time and I find glue sticks to be very good.  Some of my buildings have been on the club layout for 10 years.

 

Another possibility is to use Slaters or SEF textured sheets (0.020" thick).  The drawback is they need to be painted and you can't beat the rendering of Scalescenes (don't know know what you got).

 

John

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