Parkside wagon kits

[Bernard Lamb]

11 hours ago, The Johnster said:

I agree, except that I find that a heavy-handed approach to loadin the brush is needed to counter the speed at which the glue evaporates if it is free running enough to capillarate into joints, or not enough will make it into the corner, and the heavily-loaded brush is capable of making as much of a mess as the gloopy stuff

I find that holding the parts together by applying two very small drops of solvent and then applying a larger amount along the joint works best for me. A very similar technique to the real world were a long weld between two pieces of metal would be held in place with a coule of tacks. If you do apply too much, than as long as you keep your fingers away it should be OK and will not make a mess.

I last bought a 1l bottle long before Covid for the price of less than two of the hobby size bottles. I don't think that I have used half of it. Far more economical than any branded and packed variety. Decant what you use and keep the big bottle in a safe place.

Bernard

[SM42]

I'm a Liquid Poly man and my brush for applying is more of a stick nowadays 

 

A small blob on the end touched on the joint is usually sufficient. ( a bit like applying oil with a pin)  Sometimes it might need a bit more. 

 

Still got 30 odd year builds going strong. 

 

There are a few ABS parts in some kits, it this is pointed out in the instructions and I have an ancient  bottle of Plasticweld for such occasions

 

The biggest problem now is the ridiculously brittle plastic Peco use. 

 

For parts moulded flat that need shaping, like brake levers, it is totally unsuitable. 

Even some bits snap while trying to clean up parts. The vanwide is a nightmare round the bottom door runners

Axlebox tie bars, for instance, used to have enough give to be able clean off flash. Not so sure they are now. 

 

Andy