FlexTrack on curve in a shed

[Magyar]

Hi all,

 

Probably been answered before but having trouble finding. I'm building a layout 8' x 6' in my shed, it's insulated but obviously still prone to large temp swings. I'm making it modular purely because I plan to move in 2-4years and don't want to "have" to rip it all up.

 

I have a curve that I was planning to do with flex track as I wanted to to start gradually from the point into the curve which would be R3 at it's tightest. However it will need a join midway and I've read alot of people solder this but in a shed this option isn't great.

 

So I could just set track the curve at R3 the whole way and just have short straight after the point, which will finish the curve roughly in the same place. Would this be a better option in the shed? Certainly feels like an easier option and maybe revisit flex curve after the move (hoping for hobby room inside).

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Short answer, if most of the curve will be R3 as you describe, use set track curves. (It takes considerable effort to maintain an accurate constant radius of less than 24"with code 100 flexi, including forming the rails permanently at rail joints  to prevent 'dog legs'.)

[Les Bird]

Definitely agree with the use of settrack curves. I have R3 and R4 in my shed and they survive all temperature changes.

[Magyar]

Tidy, thanks folks

[Phil Himsworth]

I used flexitrack with a join on a bend; in hindsight I wish I had used settrack as the slight kink is the only problematic bit of track on the whole layout.

 

I did wonder whether a compromise might be to use flexitrack, but instead of joining one length of flexi to another, have a very short cut down length of settrack in between; you could still use flexi to get the curve you want, but the little bit of settrack would hold the rails in the right place at the join. Would this work?

 

Some gratuitous rail bending with pliers seems to have sorted mine out, but I have wondered about retrofitting the above as a backup option,,,

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

27 minutes ago, Phil Himsworth said:

...Some gratuitous rail bending with pliers seems to have sorted mine out...

From my long ago experience it will still be necessary to pre-bend the flexi rail ends to eliminate any 'dog leg' at the join to the set track piece. The set track railjoiners are slack fitting around the rails and thus won't reliably supply the force required for a smooth joint alignment.

[1466]

5 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

From my long ago experience it will still be necessary to pre-bend the flexi rail ends to eliminate any 'dog leg' at the join to the set track piece. The set track railjoiners are slack fitting around the rails and thus won't reliably supply the force required for a smooth joint alignment.

I have a 10 by 8 shed which is pretty well insulated . I keep a background heater on at around 10 degrees Celsius  in the winter and after 10  years haven’t had problems with heat expansion and contraction . Maximum temp was over 30 degrees Celsius .

I used EM flex track by SMP and a minimum radius of 36 radius on the inner track . The outer double track is 38 inches which just fitted within the walls ( after the thickness of insulation and ply facing ). I would have liked to arrange a transition curve but there wasn’t room . But going from straight to 36 inch radius has worked .

When bending the flex track , I used a Tracksetta adjusted for EM by gluing a sliver of plasticard to one side . I found that it helped to bend the track by starting in the middle of a yard length and working outward . If I started at the end and worked inwards , it was more difficult. It’s necessary to cut the rail at the ends as you progress. I had to relay one section 3 times !

Hope this helps and good luck !

[AndrueC]

8 hours ago, Phil Himsworth said:

I used flexitrack with a join on a bend; in hindsight I wish I had used settrack as the slight kink is the only problematic bit of track on the whole layout.

Similar deal here. Other joints on curves are nearer the start in the easement area and are fine but I got lazy on one curve and rather than make two more cuts I chose to join in almost the middle of the curve. Unfortunately mine is on a line nearest the wall and inclined using a technique that means I'd have to rip out a lot of good scenery to relay.

 

Most of my rolling stock was okay with it but I've had issues with new stock and a few months ago I managed to improve it slightly.

 

 

So I got away with mine but for sure I won't be doing that again.

Edited January 31 by AndrueC

[melmerby]

I've taken to preforming flexitrack for bends. I've got a lot of mid curve joins

Take the sleepers of and bend to the require curve by pulling the rail through finger & thumb (or with some cloth if you have "Fairy Liquid" hands) at a slight angle.

It's not easy to explain but it does the job.

Edited January 31 by melmerby

[DCB]

11 hours ago, Magyar said:

Hi all,

 

Probably been answered before but having trouble finding. I'm building a layout 8' x 6' in my shed, it's insulated but obviously still prone to large temp swings. I'm making it modular purely because I plan to move in 2-4years and don't want to "have" to rip it all up.

 

I have a curve that I was planning to do with flex track as I wanted to to start gradually from the point into the curve which would be R3 at it's tightest. However it will need a join midway and I've read alot of people solder this but in a shed this option isn't great.

 

So I could just set track the curve at R3 the whole way and just have short straight after the point, which will finish the curve roughly in the same place. Would this be a better option in the shed? Certainly feels like an easier option and maybe revisit flex curve after the move (hoping for hobby room inside).

I would use R3 set track but use the end pieces like flexi and cut the webs between sleepers and ease the set track to a progressively larger radius. The  rail ends will need  trimming as per flexi but it's what I do when radius gets towards 3rd radius , I find at 2ft radius flexi I need to support the rail ends with  screws against the fishplate and against the sides of the rails between base and railhead each side of the fishplate.   I really tweak the inner rail round before laying so it doesn't straighten out and dog leg as per #Andruec' s photo, and apologies for annotating it.  You need to pull the rail clear of the sleepers to tweak it.

[dasatcopthorne]

I think in your case it will be best to use Set Track but at the Baseboard joint, make sure a section of track straddles the joint. Bolt the boards tightly together, lay the track and fix down well. Then, with a razor saw, cut through the rails immediately above and in line with the joint.

 

Dave.

[melmerby]

1 hour ago, dasatcopthorne said:

I think in your case it will be best to use Set Track but at the Baseboard joint, make sure a section of track straddles the joint. Bolt the boards tightly together, lay the track and fix down well. Then, with a razor saw, cut through the rails immediately above and in line with the joint.

 

Dave.

I'd add

Cut and remove a sleeper each side of the proposed cut/joint and replace with copper clad ones soldered on, then cut rail when fixed down

Edited January 31 by melmerby