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VI Trains class 47 help needed


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Can anyone advise on how to unclip the keeper plates on these locos please, I can see where the clips are,but cannot see anyway of unclipping them. There doesn’t appear to be any gap to insert a screwdriver etc.

I obtained one of these recently, it runs extremely smoothly, and appears to not to have been used, so am concerned whatever lubricant was used may have dried up in the intervening years. Appreciate any help, especially pictures.

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Very carefully with a screwdriver between keeper plate and bogie if I remember rightly, there are a few bits (keeper plate and the bogie retention clips) that snap easily.  The fitting that holds the bogie into the chassis block is particularly prone to it (2 of mine (both second hand buys) have had to have repairs here)

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Thanks for your reply, don’t know if I should leave well alone then. I cannot see where a screwdriver could go in. A couple of posts have suggested it’s a sealed gearbox, not sure if I’m overthinking it as I have two or three similar locos ,one a Heljan that is at least as old and hasn’t been touched.

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2 hours ago, portsladepete said:

it runs extremely smoothly, and appears to not to have been used, so am concerned whatever lubricant was used may have dried up in the intervening years.

I'd leave alone, until it begins to complain.  On one of a pair of 1992 purchased Bachmann Peaks, I had the mechanism apart immediately after purchase to see how it compared to the 1971 Athearn centre motor mechanisms on the PA1. Felt it looked promising and left the second model mechanism alone. 32 years on both still running as well as ever with no service attention including lubrication*, smooth running, quiet, able to pull the side out of a house, etc..

 

On this basis all of my centre motor both bogies driven mechanisms have been left alone, with the sole exception of Hornby's wonky Brush 2 bogies which needed rebuilding; 6 classes from Bach, 5 classes Heljan, 1 from Dapol. No trouble at all.

 

*So much for the miserabilists compaining about motors that cannot be serviced: no, but they don't need it on evidence to date. Think I have long had my money's worth.

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To release the bogie fame/keeper, put a small screwdriver inbetween the bogie frame and the gear tower at the top of the bogies at the ends. Twist gently, but it may take a bit of wrestling.

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7 hours ago, portsladepete said:

Just had a look, think I can see what you’re talking about, so you don’t try to move the side clips? Thanks again

The bogie sides and the keeper are a single part, the only clips are either end of the bogies.

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A couple of photos from the underside of one of my GWT resprays,

IMG_9465.jpeg

Front and rear clips on the one piece bogie frame, these are pretty tough (I dont recall any failures, unlike Bachmann's similar design).  The risk point here is damage to the upper part of the bogie mount as the guides that secure it in place into the chassis block are fairly small plastic extensions.   In the unlikely case a wheel falls out you need to ensure it goes in the right way round so that the gears correctly mesh.

 

IMG_9464.jpeg

if you are wanting to oil the worm directly, there are these two clips on either side.  Again being careful not to damage those lugs that secure the bogie.  Ive found if you work on it with the wheels on the workbench at least it stops the bogies falling out while the worm clip is removed.

Edited by The Fatadder
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6 minutes ago, portsladepete said:

Thank you very much, is that a 37?
The noise I have is a very slight clicking noise, I’ll try it in a couple of weeks, want to be sure so I don’t spoil the warranty. Very kind of you to take pictures for me.

It’s a 47

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Before you go any further:

 

Does the chassis run in both directions? If it does, it is unlikely that there is a foreign body in the gear boxes as even a tiny obstruction in a gear will stop it turning.

 

A clicking noise is more likely the brake rigging (loosely fitted inside the bogie frame from underneath in line with the wheels, its got the brake shoes on it) catching on a wheel.

 

The gears were well lubricated when new without being over lubricated. I have been using them since they were released and have never needed to lubricate one. Rich's 2nd post on the thread that he details further down has the key point here. If you're doing this for the first time, there is a risk of you breaking the clips that hold the bogie in the chassis block. There aren't just the clips on the ends of the bogie keeper/bottom plate, each keeper plate has two clips on each side (visible on the photos, between the wheels) holding it onto the bogie.

 

I've bought several that have needed this repair. If you do need to remove the bogie keeper plate, hold the chassis upside down and pull the bogie into the chassis with one hand to relieve any stress on the aforementioned clips whilst levering the keeper plate off the bogie with a screwdriver. 

 

It's well worth blackening the wheels of any Vitrains model.

 

 

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Thanks for your input, I gave up before damaging it. I took the worm covers off and put a small amount of grease on the worms each end. I also put a tiny amount of oil on the motor bearings, it runs nicely now.

I will now leave it alone!  
Am away for a couple of days, next up is the detailing pack. Should only take a month or two!

The “clicking” was more like a soft sound similar to a playing card on the spokes of a bike wheel, but very much quieter,,so “clicking” was the wrong word I used.

Edited by portsladepete
Spellings
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So in case you need to do this or as a reference for anyone else, the screwdriver shows the side clips holes. The bogie frame is very flexible, even clumsy levering won't break it. But when levering the bogie frame up and off, push the wheels down to prevent stressing the clip.image0.jpeg.a2eabd845edaace07be8abb2a14a7a8b.jpeg

 

 

 

Here's a view from above showing a piece of plasticard bolted onto the bogie to replace a broken clip. 

IMG_4354.jpg.4eeff1c695d59a93e45fc38e1dde28eb.jpg

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