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INOX MX3 fluid


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This isn't really DCC specific but couldn't find anywhere else to put it

I've noticed a few youtube videos mainly from Australia singing the praises of INOX MX3 fluid on track.

The gist of it is that this is put on track after cleaning and it leaves a residue which is supposed to keep it clean

When you read about it it says it's a lubricant so the last thing you need on railhead.

Has anyone got experience of it?

The only place I've found it for sale in the UK is a slot car specialist,  obviously a lubricant would be an advantage here to reduce friction 

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I run DCC in n gauge and use WD40 contact cleaner after cleaning with lighter fluid. It works really well. 

I believe the key is to use a non-ionic liquid for cleaning (water and IPA are ionically charged apparently but lighter fluid isn't) followed by a protective barrier of contact cleaner. 

Studies of track dirt shows that it is caused by micro arcing at the wheel rail interface which the constant high current of DCC combined with an ionically charged cleaning fluid being used accelerates dirt production/accumulation. 

 

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I reckon that whatever hair-brained scheme that is dreamt up will find at least one person out there who says it is an excellent systems and it works brilliantly for them.

 

In summary, there isn't a philosopher's stone which will solve the issue of cleaning track - with the simple common being that all the methods work for the person using them.

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2 hours ago, woodyfox said:

I run DCC in n gauge and use WD40 contact cleaner after cleaning with lighter fluid. It works really well. 

I believe the key is to use a non-ionic liquid for cleaning (water and IPA are ionically charged apparently but lighter fluid isn't) followed by a protective barrier of contact cleaner. 

Studies of track dirt shows that it is caused by micro arcing at the wheel rail interface which the constant high current of DCC combined with an ionically charged cleaning fluid being used accelerates dirt production/accumulation. 

 

 

Thanks, I have been using 99.9% IPA and  WD40 contact cleaner but I understand now  the WD40 doesn't actually leave any protective coat. It's great on wheels

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How I clean my track is irrelevant - my method works for me, however I have posted this here before and people have found that the suggestions work - essentially chemically you should be using non-polar solvents.

 

image.png.7d8cc42b208f880eb2f0ebfc4d4f2d21.png

 

Incidentally, if you search the internet you will find almost everything on that listed recommended by someone.

 

The source for this is DiaElec1.pdf

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1 hour ago, WIMorrison said:

How I clean my track is irrelevant - my method works for me, however I have posted this here before and people have found that the suggestions work - essentially chemically you should be using non-polar solvents.

 

image.png.7d8cc42b208f880eb2f0ebfc4d4f2d21.png

 

Incidentally, if you search the internet you will find almost everything on that listed recommended by someone.

 

The source for this is DiaElec1.pdf

 

Interesting,  what effect does non polar and polar have?

I wonder if that IPA is the 99.9% or the weaker stuff that they have in Australia.  Think I'll put some WD40 contact cleaner on too

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48 minutes ago, WIMorrison said:

Have you read the article I linked to in the post?

Sorry Iain I hadn't noticed the link , I've now read it

What I can't really understand is that IPA and WD40 contact cleaner completely evaporate so are just a cleaning solution and shouldn't leave anything behind

I'm about ⅔ through cleaning my layout with IPA, what I will do is clean last third with WD CC and see which parts of the layout needs cleaning again first. There is quite a bit to do as the layout has 200yds of track

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How do you go about using the contact cleaner? Spray some in a cup and dip in a Q-Tip (cotton bud) to clean the rails? Will it still evaporate quicky out of the cup? 

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Sounds good! I was just wondering about the evaporation, if I'm going to end up using the whole can because what I spray in the cup keeps evaporating before I can use it all.

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For those in this septic isle, I've always found Track Magic works well after cleaning the track. But I doubt it will be a convenient item to purchase in your country.

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1 hour ago, zarniwhoop said:

For those in this septic isle, I've always found Track Magic works well after cleaning the track. But I doubt it will be a convenient item to purchase in your country.

 

It's weird how people have good results and others don't. I found track magic horrible and It's supposed to attack plastic 

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11 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

How I clean my track is irrelevant - my method works for me, however I have posted this here before and people have found that the suggestions work - essentially chemically you should be using non-polar solvents.

 

image.png.7d8cc42b208f880eb2f0ebfc4d4f2d21.png

 

Incidentally, if you search the internet you will find almost everything on that listed recommended by someone.

 

The source for this is DiaElec1.pdf

 

I note normal WD40 is on this list. I would certainly give this a very wide berth, as it destroys insulation materials. In fact its only got one real use, and thats for spraying into your mates motorbike engine (through the spark plug hole) when he isn't looking.... The resultant cloud of smoke is something to behold!

 

Andy G 

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I would advise against using ipa as it has a high polar charge effect which encourages the micro arcing that produces dirt. I would stick to those fluid with a low polar rating. That's my reason for opting for lighter fluid. 

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The list of the chemicals above appeared in Model Railroad Hobbyist in May 2019. Its available on line.

 

Since reading it a couple of years ago, I've mostly used nothing else.

 

Note: a near equivalent is White Spirit (UK). / Mineral Spirits in the US.

 

Dave.

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53 minutes ago, dasatcopthorne said:

The list of the chemicals above appeared in Model Railroad Hobbyist in May 2019. Its available on line.

 

And i provided the link to the article in my post ....

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22 minutes ago, dasatcopthorne said:

I looked at the link and it didn't look as though it would be anything to do with MRH.

 

Looks pretty clear to me that it is MRH when you open it

 

4 minutes ago, dasatcopthorne said:

As I said, that link gives no suggestion that it might take you to MRH.

 

The link is to the article, which shows clearly that it is from MRH

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