alastairq Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 aaahh, Shortliner, I see you have issues with termites too? I have a small quantity of the old Gem point levers.....probably not as well 'engineered' as the Caboose throws, but work on a similar principle. next thing, you'll all be making up little switch indicators..or whatever they were called......poles with neat shapes on top, to indicate which direction the turnout is thrown? Years ago, I started to use those little nylon tee-shaped things one found attaching labels to new tee shirts, etc....ended up with stiff wire and little diamonds soldered to the top. With a suitable base to pivot on, and a crank attached to the turnout throw wire, they would rotate as the switch is thrown...I had better eyesight then as well! The diamonds I made out of very thin brass, cut diamond-shaped, then folded at right angles, two soldered back-to back onto a stiff wire....I also has asbestos fingers back then too. Very effective at keeping unwanted fingers away from important but delicate pointwork...once stabbed, twice shy? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 Alistair - I think that CI do that variety too - somebody also does the more modern D-loop ones, but they are fairly expensive from what I remember. I didn't notice I had managed to pick one that the termites had been at until after I put the photo on here Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 when I did my indicators...I had to consider they were going on to an NMRA module...so had to be a lot more robust than those that were commercially available....as it happened, robust also meant 'free''...... It has always amazed me how Peco could have 'got it wrong' to the extent, sleepers had to be chopped.....maybe I've become a fuss-RS? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 I thought you meant the termites that had been at the switch-stand! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoRS1 Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I been trying to put in the caboose hobby switch stands, but I have run into a little problem. it seems the movement of the bar is more than the movement of the switch so when installed it does not lock down each side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 omega loop? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoRS1 Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 omega loop? ????? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave1905 Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 The Greek letter omega is like a little horsehoe, with a little serif on each end. The suggestion it to put a hole in the throwbar and the rod of the switch stand, then connect them with a curved spring to take up the slack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I been trying to put in the caboose hobby switch stands, but I have run into a little problem. it seems the movement of the bar is more than the movement of the switch so when installed it does not lock down each side. Dear Alco, This is why I use and reccomend the 216s (the "S" stands for "Sprung"). Any Caboose Industry "S" series groundthrow has over-travel springs which take up the excess travel within the throw mech. However, if you're looking for a homegrown solution, the "omega loop" spring should work HINT! The thing at top right is the "Omega Loop", and it should be located between the groundthrow and the turnout throwbar... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Glad you said that, because I've always found that the C.I. throws for the scale below worked best with the scale I'm in... I used N-scale throws in HO, now I use HO throws in O scale... Dear F-Unit, My O scale SG "Chicago Fork" used C.I. "N scale" 216S throw on a handlaid O scale SG turnout, the 216S's are my "go to" solution... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoRS1 Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Dear Alco, This is why I use and reccomend the 216s (the "S" stands for "Sprung"). Any Caboose Industry "S" series groundthrow has over-travel springs which take up the excess travel within the throw mech. However, if you're looking for a homegrown solution, the "omega loop" spring should work Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr thanks Prof. When I ordered I did not know what the difference was, this is the first time I have used them, will order some of the 216s, will look at the N scale versions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigZ Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Or a zig-zag of brass wire as the actuator rod between the ground throw and the turnout will take up the extra travel... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 getting the actuator wire to be springy enough, yet rigid mechanically, was a problem I had....I lost count of the number of times I turned a Peco turnout into a stub switch! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 A fine metal guitar string will work for Zeds and Omega loops Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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