shortliner Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 May be of interest http://whiteriverandnorthern.net/clinic_30.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoRS1 Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 On my last layout, I used 2 magnets, round ones, I would place them under the track the same way, they cost me $2 for 8 magnets at the Home Depot, beats the $4 for kadee. Now I don't use magnets, I want more involvement so it done with a decoupler tool. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alcanman Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 On my last layout, I used 2 magnets, round ones, I would place them under the track the same way, they cost me $2 for 8 magnets at the Home Depot, beats the $4 for kadee. Now I don't use magnets, I want more involvement so it done with a decoupler tool. Hi, Which make of uncoupler tool do you use? Although I use Kadee magnets, I also wish to include some manual uncoupling on my next layout cheers, Mal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Spooky that I was just laid in the bath thinking of how I would want to operate the "Calais" layout and now this post ,I have decided on manual uncoupling and point throws ..effectively working as the switchman ...and the driver, just as it is done in reality. I have used magnets in the past and although at the time it was a far superior system than the British tension lock,I now feel that hand uncoupling on a layout that is easily reached will be better for me and less restrictive than magnets in fixed positions ..... Regards Trevor .. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 I now feel that hand uncoupling on a layout that is easily reached will be better for me and less restrictive than magnets in fixed positions ..... Magnets really are not that restrictive if well positioned and the uncouplers are delayed release type. 3 links look great but when the operator is visually challenged or of a nervous inclination they are near useless. All other forms of manually uncoupling invoke the cries of horror "hand of god" which if it is only you watching is irrelevant but for most onlookers visually wrecks the image about as much as the "shoved by god" or "rerailed by god" incidents. But I think any system operated from the bath needs to be electrically well insulated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 All other forms of manually uncoupling invoke the cries of horror "hand of god" which if it is only you watching is irrelevant but for most onlookers visually wrecks the image about as much as the "shoved by god" or "rerailed by god" incidents. But I think any system operated from the bath needs to be electrically well insulated. But another part of the thought process is to operate from the front..do the point switching manually (ground throws) and load pulpwood racks and gondolas by hand,shunting and spotting cars, while explaining the operation to the watchers ...therefore involving people in the process and not pretending to be "Him" whose hand descends ... the only bit I haven't figured out is how to raise the bath up to layout level and fit castors to it .. B) Regards Trevor ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoRS1 Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 some people use a thin dermal sharpened to a point, I use the kadee tool. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 some people use a thin dermal sharpened to a point, I use the kadee tool. RE Manual Uncoupling tools A wood kebab skewer works for me in both HO SG, On30, and O SG, - they're cheap, - available in packs of 100, - you won't cry if you loose one, (just grab another), - and for show layouts where you may wish to get the crowd involved, one feels much more comfy handing a crowdmember a AUD$0.00.5c kebab skewer, (no, that's not a mistype, each kebab skewer works out at around half a cent/unit when bought in "bulk") than a US$15 "Rix Uncoupling tool" or similar. Alternatively, if I'm in a rush, I'll use my fave small phillips-head modelling screwdriver, (it's never far from my workbench or toolbox). Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoRS1 Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 I use a http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page241.htm cost a $1.60, going to get 2 more for the layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
signalmaintainer Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 RE Manual Uncoupling tools A wood kebab skewer works for me in both HO SG, On30, and O SG, - they're cheap, - available in packs of 100, - you won't cry if you loose one, (just grab another) That what I used in HO and something like it but smaller in N scale! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 All other forms of manually uncoupling invoke the cries of horror "hand of god" which ... for most onlookers visually wrecks the image about as much as the "shoved by god" or "rerailed by god" incidents. :D :D Despite the "hands-free" operation of Kadees with magnets, there is the small issue of the un-realistic "Kadee Dance" that the loco has to perform instead of the "Hand of God" appearances. I note the comments about wanting to be more involved as an operator; so far in US O scale I've uncoupled by hand (large 'Phillips' Jeweller's screwdriver), partly as non-Kadee buckeyes seem a bit dodgy (Atlas-strongly sprung, Weaver loose trip-pins), partly because very strong magnets seem to be needed if they're to be under-track, but partly because at one time I had British HO stock (don't ask!!) all fitted with Kadee #58's, and under-track magnets... I got bored silly just flicking the points and turning the controller knob (especially for the Kadee Dance!). I longed to be more involved with the shunting, and on British stuff this meant 3-links, which, vis-a-vis, meant a move to O scale... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 I have to own-up and say that 149th Street is a bamboo-skewer job - in the main because I wanted to be driver and switch-man, and have Caboose Industries ground-throws, so the layout is intended to be hands-on! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold grandadbob Posted October 22, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 22, 2010 That what I used in HO and something like it but smaller in N scale! I use the same for my OO layout but with the addition of a straightened paper clip taped to the end and then bent at approx 90 deg. Regards Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alcanman Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 I have to own-up and say that 149th Street is a bamboo-skewer job - in the main because I wanted to be driver and switch-man, and have Caboose Industries ground-throws, so the layout is intended to be hands-on! Hi, Are the Caboose Industries ground-throws suitable for Peco code 100 turnouts? Like others I've been reading Lance Mindheim's books and have decided to return to the simplicity of manual uncoupling & switching turnouts. cheers, Mal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted October 22, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 22, 2010 I have happily used the Rix twin-magnet hand-held uncoupler for years on my US HO freight cars, although it's now so old (20?) the plastic has failed and I'll need to effect repairs. However, this is slightly more useless than the fabled chocolate fireguard when it comes to dividing Hornby Maunsells! Ditto skewers etc - as the train is in the platform at the time of splitting, so getting in and among is impossible. Undertrack magnets look unavoidable to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveB Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Definitely in favour of the kebab sticks uncoupler.They work well, cheap and easily replaced. I sprayed a load of them yellow for my Kuppla Yard and Hoxie Harbor exhibition layouts, then give them to the kids who help operate as souvenirs - I'm all heart really!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Hi, Are the Caboose Industries ground-throws suitable for Peco code 100 turnouts? Like others I've been reading Lance Mindheim's books and have decided to return to the simplicity of manual uncoupling & switching turnouts. cheers, Mal Yes ....this one ... Caboose Industries HO 117R Ground Throw w/ 5 End Fittings, Rigid ....also comes in a multi pack .... Model Junction appear to out of stock at the moment ....could try elsewhere in the UK .. Regards Trevor .. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnteal Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 I' ve just fiited some Neodymium rod magnets, (£3.00 for 25) and they work well. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/323/entry-4982-kadees-and-magnets/ as for hand of God, if I end up using manual uncoupling aswell thats fine, non of my point work is auotmated. To be honest on a stay at home layout where all the pointwork is within arms reach it makes sense to me not spending the money on control. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 Hi, Are the Caboose Industries ground-throws suitable for Peco code 100 turnouts? Like others I've been reading Lance Mindheim's books and have decided to return to the simplicity of manual uncoupling & switching turnouts. cheers, Mal Mal - they most certainly are - - It is possible to attach them directly but I use a staple reformed with one end formed into a loop that fits over the "nub" on the throwbar, and the other end bent to go down under the CI ground throw and then up through the hole and then bend the upright leg towards the turnout after fitting under the left hand end of the CI throw is a downward pointing nub - that can be nipped off and will make the throw operate more smothly - it is intended for fitting into the hole in the end of an Atlas turnout throw-bar Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Hi, Are the Caboose Industries ground-throws suitable for Peco code 100 turnouts? Like others I've been reading Lance Mindheim's books and have decided to return to the simplicity of manual uncoupling & switching turnouts. cheers, Mal Dear Mal, Sure, Caboose Industries 216S sprung throws works with PECO HO Code100 streamline and setrack, Code 75 finescale, and Code 83 "US geometry" just fine... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoRS1 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 I just order 7 for my yard, thanks shortliner, for answers questions I had. For my 1 peco switch I not bothering with a switch seeing it has the tabs and is spring loaded. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 No problem - sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words, and it is easier to photo than to go into a long explanation. I havent removed the spring from my PECO points, although you can do The CI groundthrows that I have are the ones with built in springs - it allows them to absorb any excess " over travel" When you fit the groundthrows, set the throw lever upright and fit a bit of card or trimmed matchstick between the rails and the blades to hold the turnout in the central position then mount the CI throw - this will ensure that the turnout works fully in both directions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
signalmaintainer Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Dear Mal, Sure, Caboose Industries 216S sprung throws works with PECO HO Code100 streamline and setrack, Code 75 finescale, and Code 83 "US geometry" just fine... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr And in the For What's It's Worth Department, I've used CI ground throws designed for N scale successfully with Shinohara HO code 70 turnouts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoRS1 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 No problem - sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words, and it is easier to photo than to go into a long explanation. I havent removed the spring from my PECO points, although you can do The CI groundthrows that I have are the ones with built in springs - it allows them to absorb any excess " over travel" When you fit the groundthrows, set the throw lever upright and fit a bit of card or trimmed matchstick between the rails and the blades to hold the turnout in the central position then mount the CI throw - this will ensure that the turnout works fully in both directions. thank will do that Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 And in the For What's It's Worth Department, I've used CI ground throws designed for N scale successfully with Shinohara HO code 70 turnouts. Glad you said that, because I've always found that the C.I. throws for the scale below worked best with the scale I'm in... I used N-scale throws in HO, now I use HO throws in O scale... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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