Stripping paint from whitemetal

[ladysplicer]

Hello just a quicky ive got some old kitbuilt whitemetal buildings that need the paint stripped off them can i use any paint stripper the paint looks like enamel paint been hand brushed.

 

thanxs

[Il Grifone]

Whitemetal is not affected by paint strippers so anything will do, but try a small area first just to be safe.

Nitromors will shift most paint (and dissolve glue as well). I find acrylic paints respond best to meths or IPA though. For plastic use caustic soda or, safer, brake fluid.

 

All these are corrosive so use great care in their use.

[corax67]

For a quick & cheap method, head to your nearest pound shop & get a can of foaming oven cleaner.

 

Place the structure in a sealable clear plastic bag (large ziplock sandwich bags are perfect for this) and spray in a decent amount of oven cleaner. Seal the bag and shake to ensure the structure is covered in foam then leave overnight (or 6-8 hours).

 

Remove from bag and rinse under warm water - using a toothbrush the paint should come off easily under the running water. If there are any stubborn paint patches then just repeat as necessary.

 

Elf & Safety bits - as the oven cleaner is caustic please use rubbber gloves & eye protection when applying and removing the foam.

[Il Grifone]

Most of these are caustic soda, but some are some other nasty stuff. Care needed in any case.

 

I'm always surprised that the practice of spraying caustic soda around ovens doesn't produce more accidents that it does!

[corax67]

You are supposed to use it on your oven ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

[Kenton]

Be wary of using Nitromoors on whitemetal kits - kit builders have an annoying habit of substituting plasticard for whitemetal and what may look a solid block of metal has parts that literally dissolve before your eyes. But other than that it is my recommended choice.

[Il Grifone]

You are supposed to use it on your oven ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

 

:D

[ladysplicer]

Hi thanxs for all the replies some good advice shared i think ive got some nitromores in the shed ive used this on steel but not whitemetal i had visions of turning the buildings into puddles:lol: will have ago on a small area first the ovan cleaner in a bag ive herd this idea before anyway thanxs again i will have ago later.

 

thank you

[hayfield]

I use to use Nitromores, friends kept on telling me to try caustic soda. Well I got a cheap polytheen food container from Tesco's (£1) and never looked back, bonus is that it works on plastic. 1 heaped table spoon full per Pint of luke warm water. Normally works within 2 hours, just put back in for a bit longer if the paint has not come off fully. Also the good thing about both is that it also weakens the glue on whitemetal kits.

 

I had a problem with a matt black both with caustic soda and Nitromores, both seem to have sofened it but would not come fully off. When washed off in water left oily dots in the water ?

[Il Grifone]

I had a problem with a matt black both with caustic soda and Nitromores, both seem to have sofened it but would not come fully off. When washed off in water left oily dots in the water ?

 

This sounds like it could be an acrylic paint. Alcohol will usually shift it. I've found the usual solvents struggle with acrylics.

 

I usually try brake fluid first. It doesn't attack plastic (usually) and is less nasty on the skin (Wash off at once!). Caustic soda is nasty stuff and can cause severe chemical burns (soap is made by boiling animal fat in it!). If I use soda, I keep some vinegar to hand to neuralise it. (I'm not sure if this is the recommended treatment!)

 

Cellulose thinners will also lift enamel paint (noxious vapour!!), but is death to plastic. I've used them in the past to dissolve plastic to make filler.(cheaper than Mekpak etc.)

[ladysplicer]

Hi ive had a go at stripping the lineside hut with nitromoores and its not whitemetal but some other metal not sure what it is very hard to file the item isnt kitbuilt either like i thought but made as one hollow piece cant see no makers mark anyway thanxs for the advice.

 

thank you

[Andy Y]

Hi ive had a go at stripping the lineside hut with nitromoores and its not whitemetal but some other metal not sure what it is very hard to file the item isnt kitbuilt either like i thought but made as one hollow piece cant see no makers mark anyway thanxs for the advice.

 

thank you

 

Please take some time to read this topic - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/26156-meaningless-and-pointless-topicposts/

 

No further posts will be passed until there's an improvement in the quality.

 

 

 

[Kenton]

Hi ive had a go at stripping the lineside hut with nitromoores and its not whitemetal but some other metal not sure what it is very hard to file the item isnt kitbuilt either like i thought but made as one hollow piece cant see no makers mark anyway thanxs for the advice.

 

thank you

 

Or translated for the "english" police - pretty easy and obvious if you ask me.

It is highly relevant, as it is a continuation of the Original Post, with the author reporting back on having taken actions advised by other members during the thread and so is at minimum courteous and seeking further advice. I don't think it warrants the grammar bullies attack.

 

The translation:

Hello again.

I have had a go at stripping the line-side hut with Nitromoores. It is not white metal but some other metal. I am not sure what metal. It is very hard to file. The item is not kit-built either, unlike I thought, but made as one hollow piece. I cannot see a maker's mark. Anyway, thank you for the advice.

 

Now that wasn't too difficult was it?

[eastworld]

If it is whitemetal then be careful if using Modelstrip - if left on too long it will react with the metal.

 

Stu

[Baby Deltic]

Or translated for the "english" police - pretty easy and obvious if you ask me.

It is highly relevant, as it is a continuation of the Original Post, with the author reporting back on having taken actions advised by other members during the thread and so is at minimum courteous and seeking further advice. I don't think it warrants the grammar bullies attack.

 

The translation:

Hello again.

I have had a go at stripping the line-side hut with Nitromoores. It is not white metal but some other metal. I am not sure what metal. It is very hard to file. The item is not kit-built either, unlike I thought, but made as one hollow piece. I cannot see a maker's mark. Anyway, thank you for the advice.

 

Now that wasn't too difficult was it?

 

It wasn't difficult, but readers shouldn't have to spend time translating grammar-free postings in the first place.B)

[bertiedog]

Don't worry about pure whitemetal, as used in UK locomotive kits, either Lead based, or the new Pewter types, these resist all normal strippers totally, but I suspect that these cast buildings are made from harder die cast Mazak or Zamac, which both contain magnesium and aluminium, and are attacked by caustic solutions such as Nitromors and caustic soda, (including most oven cleaners).

 

 

Old Hornby bodies could be stripped with caustics, but never leave the solution in contact for too long, wash off as soon as possible, and the same applies to these diecast buildings. The Chinese use mazak for chassis and body parts on current production, so be careful stripping these items with caustic.

 

The culprit for trouble is Aluminium, which is corrosion resistant due to an oxide surface, which however is attacked by acid, strong alkali or salts. It leaves a pitted surface and white salt like deposits on the surface of the aluminium, Mazak, or Magnesium castings.

 

In general the safest stripper for paint on Mazak is acetone, or equivalent high octane thinners, to soften and remove the paint, but work fast with caustic and wash it off very carefully and it will work.

 

Stephen.