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Yes I would agree, there are quite a few plaster bandage products out there for model railway scenics. I can't remember the one I used on my current layout, but it was really good as a way of creating land forms quickly.

 

The instructions suggested 3 layers, but I managed to only used 2. I think this all relates what substrate you use to actually create the land form shape and how flexible it is and how resistant it is to being damaged/punctured once covered in plaster. I used a medium density polystyrene and with two layers it has resulted in a rock hard surface.

 

I also had a go at creating my own using cheep cotton dish cloths and a modeling plaster. While it worked, I found the cloth once wet and impregnated with plaster slip, the resultant cloth was too limp to be layed as sheets. So I would seriously recommended using the pre impregnated cloth that come as a roll. So quick and the results were very good, to me it outweighs the cost.

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Was the stuff you obtained from jewsons foil faced? Had a look today and the recticel stuff they have in is all foil faced.

 

Yeah it has the foil on both sides.

On my layout when ive been building scenery,i pull off the foil on both sides.

You need to remove it on both sides otherwise it will bend,then i cut and carve the stuff up to suit.

 

 

Mike

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As for what to use on top of the insulation foam..

Ive been using plaster bandage or modroc.

I just buy it in rolls via ebay.

 

Ive found two layers of the stuff,and smoothed over with my fingers sets just fine.

 

Cheers

 

Ben

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  • 2 months later...
  • RMweb Gold

It looks to be more like the crumbly Celotex™ which isn't really the stuff needed...but not sure until I've seen some! I'm going into my local depot next week and will have a look at it (if they keep it).

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This is a very interesting topic! I'm considering building an 8ft x 2ft potable shelf style layout in 00 gauge. It would be analogue. Using extruded foam is an option, as my woodworking skills are abysmal. i would really appreciate any insights, as I have a very tight budget.

 

Thanks.

 

Gary

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Can you remember what the name of it was please? They seem to have a few related "Recticel" products. Is it extruded polystyrene or polyurethane do you know?

 

Sorry for all the questions

It's a polyurethane foam, faced with aluminium foil on both sides. I first encountered it about 30 years ago, when the brand name was 'Coolag'- we built an insulated warehouse within a larger warehouse using it at the former Kaleidoscope site in Banbury. Best cut using a knife, perhaps one with a finely-serrated edge.. A common brand these days is Celotex, for example https://www.insulationsuperstore.co.uk/product/celotex-tb4012-zero-odp-rigid-insulation-board-12mm-x-1200mm-x-2400mm.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwmpW6BRCf5sXp59_U_ssBEiQAGCV9GuMjFlKAtF4v1nwoOvyUbvL7FytBpdbDWXuPOFqvVFMaAnv78P8HAQ 

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I should add ive been using this stuff for scenery NOT baseboards,so i can't comment on what it would be like for that purpose.

As for cutting it,i just use a bread knife,cuts very easily and doesnt make a lot of mess.

 

Cheers

 

Ben

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

I should add ive been using this stuff for scenery NOT baseboards,so i can't comment on what it would be like for that purpose.

As for cutting it,i just use a bread knife,cuts very easily and doesnt make a lot of mess.

 

Cheers

 

Ben

I would heartily agree Ben. It lacks 'cohesive' strength and is too crumbly for my liking.

 

I have used a very small amount of it in a baseboard alteration on Balcombe' but my stock of 'Celotex' that I use for scenic work is prone to warping, not a problem for small pieces cut and glued for that work and if my method of side framing with 4mm ply and non-solvent grab adhesive is used it wont take large woodscrews that I use to retain the ply as glue goes off. It saves all that clamping up. The harder 'extruded pink/blue polyfoam will take large (No12 x 4" or whatever is convenient) being nipped up before it starts to turn. Sufficient to pull the 4mm ply tight with the glued polyfoam.

 

These can be picked up with one hand and have remained absolutely flat and true. All the end plates are being replaced by Tim Horn's excellent laser cut ply ones thus ensuring that the position of the patternmakers dowels is spot on each time.

 

The framing/bracing that I use is 33mm x 16mm (or thereabouts!).

 

post-6728-0-45015600-1465632589_thumb.jpg

 

post-6728-0-31181400-1465633354_thumb.jpg

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Never bought any foam and never will, if possible, just save all the poly packing blocks that come with everything!! or check any home restorations nearby and bin dive with permission to get insulation offcuts! All can be treated with fire retardant if you desire or you insurance insists, before applying the finishing plasters and top paints.

 

Expanded foam is actually useful, as pulling and pecking at the bubbles leaves a pretty useful rough finish for walls and landscape stone work. You can't do it so easily with solid insulation foams.

 

I use plaster roll for some surfaces and ceiling grade flexible paint for most other bits, in two or three coats. All hollows are supported with Bristol board cardboard off cuts, or vertical ceiling tiles, cut to shape. Glue is PVA throughout, but in various grades or contact versions, none attack any foams.

 

Stephen

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  • 3 weeks later...

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