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Hornby 110 DMU


graham2650

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I am new to OO gauge having just converted from N gauge. I am looking for a Hornby 110 DMU of which there seem to be several available on a well known auction site. Can anybody tell me which are the better versions for motors/wheels as I understand that there may be subtle differences which are not immediately obvious.

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  • RMweb Gold

I obtained a secondhand version of R2297B (original green livery with speed whiskers), which I beleive was one of the later production runs. My version has traction tyres, a pancake motor (IIRC) and is not a particularly good runner. Given the amount of work needed to bring it up to today's standards I will probably just keep it as part of my older "train set" collection.

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The R2297 (A,B or C with different running numbers) versions are the later versions, with traction tyres) and are better runners than the earlier ones. I have 2 of the later types and one of the earlier ones. None are up to Bachmann DMU running qualities, indeed one of the later types is a better runner than the other, with no apparent reason. However having said all that they DO RUN and are not too bad on the detail front either. You get exactly what you pay for.

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My R377 refurbished white with blue stripe one 'goes like the clappers'!

 

It is just unfortunate that for space reasons I have to think about parting with it in the near future, so as to make room for the rest of the 'Pretendolino', a blue Cravens and all those 2011 Hornby goodies everyone is speculating about on the other thread.

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  • 1 year later...

Looking at the other two cars, it would be also worthwhile replacing the bogies on these with spares I have from 101s. Only problem is you would have to change the corridor connections as the original ones on the 110 are too long when the new bogies are fitted. I had to fit a shorter one to the power car to get it to clear.

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I would like to see Hornby re-engineer this model with a better motor, working lights and be DCC compatable. I suspect they will not touch it and some other company will come along and do a better job all because Hornby are too lazy to upgrade existing models properly. It will probably appear in the Railroad range at some time............condemned to an existance as a toy rather than a model.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Saint Johnstoun - do you have any details of the box you had to build please. I ordered a class 73 power bogie to go in my Class 104 (converted from the Hornby 110) yesterday, so it would be really appreciated to save me reinventing the wheel!

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I would add that the motor bogie units on Hornby ex Lima 101s, 121s, GWR Railcars and Class 73 all use the same basic power bogie. Sometimes it is not possible to get the exact complete unit you require but if sideframes are available too then you can swap these to suit the application you need them for.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi - thanks for posting the photos, they are really useful.

 

I am starting on my conversion to the Limby motor bogie tomorrow and will post photos when completed.

 

Thanks again!

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I have an 1990s one and fitted romford wheels all round instead of the Hornby clod hopper ones and made it pickup off all 8 wheels and it now runs beautifully for a pancake jobbie. I always run it with the driven end at the rear and you get very close coupling without having to do any mods. I've been planning to populate it and add some lighting, but its fairly low priority.

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Guest stuartp

They are (the ex-Lima ones are a bit skinny), but the 101 (121/73/GWR railcar) has the new motor rather than the Ringfield. If the Ringfield doesn't bother you I think the later Hornby ones have the 5 pole version.

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I have the last version (R2297C) purchased about 6 or 7 years ago when it was still available which is quite a good smooth runner. I think it has pickups on both bogies of the powered car so goes well through dead frog points without stalling which might be a consideration. I have cut off the big couplings on all three units, replacing the inner couplings with Bachmann couplings closer coupled. It needs a bit more work though (e.g. front end pipework etc) and weathering (especially the white cab roofs) to pass muster I think.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Brian.

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It needs a bit more work though (e.g. front end pipework etc) and weathering (especially the white cab roofs) to pass muster I think.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Brian.

Yeah I think pipework on the front would be a big bonus. Might add that to the project on mine along with peeps and lighting. :)

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