SRman Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 And here are a couple more shots of progress. I have added a figure I think looks like a signalman and probably need to find another as well. I made up a train register book for the bench. All of this is based on what little I know of signalling rules and practices and rather a lot of assumptions that LT used much the same as BR and its predecessors. I think it looks reasonable and feasible, anyway, although I have no doubt there are a few experts out there who can correct me if I am wrong (please do!). 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted January 21, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 21, 2014 Good work Jeff. Catch me on Saturday at Peter's or the following Saturday here if you'd like a chat about LT signalling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Thanks Rick. I am planning to go to Peter's place but I may have a clash of dates for your open day, most regrettably - I missed the last one too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Looks good Jeff, The signabox/ groundframe I worked in at Eastleigh Depot had 3 phones a TV a sink, a little cooker a fridge and a really comfy armchair. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) Hi Peter. I am planning to add an armchair, a phone or two, a clock and possibly a stove. There is also a white metal cat awaiting painting! The interior is still a little bare at the moment.A while ago I bought some LED lighting strips from a dealer on eBay (also available from the likes of Jaycar). I bought 5 metre reels of warm white strip and cool white strip for around $AUS15 each. The strips come with resistors already built in and work off 12V DC, and are marked with cutting points and solder pads every three LEDs. I had carriage lighting in mind (Hornby 2 BILs in particular) but they are also ideal for lighting buildings. I cut one strip of three Surface Mount LEDs and soldered some wires to it, then mounted it in the ceiling of the signal box - the strips are self-adhesive but they don't stick well to the matte paint I used on the inside of the cabin so I used some black-tack to secure the strip and the wires. I had to file a small semi-circular notch in the floor assembly to let the wires pass through to baseboard level.I hooked the wires up to my test analogue controller, which has a controlled output but also has 12V DC uncontrolled and 16V AC uncontrolled outputs, noting which was the positive wire as I did so. The result was just a teensy bit bright!! I could add a higher resistance into the circuit but I thought a diffuser would serve to distribute the light as well as toning it down a bit. Some 10 thou plasticard was cut to fit the ceiling area and Blu-Tacked int place. This was somewhat better.You can see the wires running down next to the door. They will be painted to look like pipes. Edited January 21, 2014 by SRman 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 I did a little wiring this morning, so here it is in situ on the layout, with a Bachmann NSE 2 EPB passing. The lights are still a bit too bright but the overall effect is good. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 With the arrival of an ESU LokProgrammer, I decided that I needed to do something about switching the programming track, because the LokProgrammer is really only intended for ESU products. I found some spare 6 way 2 pole rotary switches left over from the cab control of my old layout's Middlehurst branch, which would allow me to switch three (or more) controls to the programming track with some 'off' positions to isolate it as well. So, I have wired the LokProgrammer/computer to one position, the original programming output from my NCE Power Pro system to another position, and a Power Cab to a third one - the Power Pro 'talks' properly to the computer allowing full read back and programming from Decoder Pro on the computer, whereas the Power Cab has some limitations on this through its USB interface but, on the other hand, the Power Cab has a little more 'oomph' for programming sound decoders. I could also add a 12V DC output to one of the spare pairs of terminals on the switch too, which would allow me to use the rolling road and run DC locomotives in before chipping them. The switch was mounted on a piece of stout plasticard and a label printed up on the computer, with a little trial and error to get things to line up satisfactorily. It's not perfect but it works well and doesn't look too bad. I must label that Power Cab Panel to ensure that no one tries to use it to drive the layout - it is programming track only 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Hi Geff, good plan using the Power Cab for programming the sound decoders. I had problems with my power pro not writing CV's properly to sound decoders, it took a bit of searching on the web to find out what was going on. Apparently there's a mod you can do to fix it but I bought a SPROG II instead. This is connected to the PC using Decoder Pro and the programming track. BTW love the lighted signal box interior. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Thanks Ray. Today I tamed the lights in the signal box even further wit a second resistor in line with the LEDs. It's still quite bright but much more acceptable now. I use Decoder Pro with the Power Pro, mostly. It does work with the Power Cab but, as I said, there are a few limitations with the USB interface. Brilliant program, especially as a freebie! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 (edited) Two new additions to the locomotive stud:A new Heljan class 33/0, D6570 with original style roof details and silencer, in green with full yellow ends and with coach stock crest. It is seen here with the earlier Heljan release of D6585 with later style roof details and modified cab roof profiles. D6570 managed to burn out a Gaugemaster decoder. It has a temporary TCS M1 decoder now but will receive a Lenz or ESU decoder once I can get hold of an 8-pin version of either. D6585 has a Zimo decoder with Digitrains (Paul Chetter) sound. A Bachmann class 47, 47 715 Haymarket, in Network SouthEast livery, which arrive today. This is straight out of the box apart from adding the coupling on one end and adding a Lenz Silver+ 21 pin decoder after some initial running-in on the rolling road on DC.It is seen here on 'menial' engineers' duties! Edited April 7, 2014 by SRman 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSLR Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Hi,Looks quite good SRman. The upgrade to that box looks particularly interesting, Signalman must be pointing at something... Cheers, Reece Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Thanks Reece. I have a second signalman (and a cat!) to go in in the near future. Presumably, signalman 1 is explaining or pointing something out on the track diagram to (not yet visible) signalman 2! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted April 7, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 7, 2014 Always good to see your update Jeff. What are your thoughts on the new Cromptons now you have one up and running? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Hi Rick. Running qualities are above reproach, as I would expect from Heljan. I like some of the extra touches like the better bogie sideframes and the vacuum exhaust pipes, and the earlier roof detail is good. It's good to have something different to the existing models.I do have reservations about the side grille mesh, and the prominent frames around same, but the rest is good. I am tempted to paint over those marker lights though, as they weren't really used. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted April 7, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 7, 2014 Very similar to my own thoughts Jeff. The mesh grilles seem to prominent and coarse and I'm not sure about those steps over the buffers - they seem large to me. But superb runners they definitely are even if double-headed they require full power to shift a long train. But that's Heljan for you - always hungry beasts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) Today I had a visit from a fried who lives around the corner but hadn't been over for a while. We chatted and ran trains for a while and I showed him what I had been up to since his last visit. He must have inspired me because I started tweaking the building positions and levels a little more. The results, so far, are shown below in pictures.There is still much to be done but each time I do these little tweaks and adjustments and rearrangements, it gets a little better and just a little closer to being finished. Ignore the glue bottle - it is fulfilling a useful function there by holding a section of roadway down while the glue sets! Edited May 11, 2014 by SRman 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 SRman this is looking like metro land of the 1930's. The terrace houses would have dated from an earlier time. I know your layout and it is a difficult little corner to become happy with. The terrace houses need to be "levelled" so the steps are even. This will make them look more even and attractive. I can only guess on a couple of people who could have dropped in 8-) I must drop in again and give you a hand with the other end. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) Hi Doug. I was cutting bases from thick card using a template and adding thicknesses by using multiples of the bases. I will do a few more to make those increments more even. As you can see, it is working! From the lower end, I think I need to add more bases for the first and third houses. The terrace houses and tudor-style hotel are in the older part of the village whereas the semi-detached and detached houses were new additions in the 1930s. A few of the original village shops have obviously been demolished and replaced with newer structures, perhaps as a result of wartime bomb damage, The road surface will be built up a little and the pavements added, then I can fix up the door steps as well. Edited May 11, 2014 by SRman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) Is this slightly better, DougN? I had some help with cutting the three extra bases I needed for this, from Toby! He insisted on holding the other end of the card sheet with his teeth and paws. Edited May 11, 2014 by SRman 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 (edited) With a view to the fact that I am hosting a BRMA meeting in August, I decided it was time to do a few improvements to the bridges and viaducts, as well as continuing work on the village roads and levels.The viaducts at the end of the layout are only currently set up as 'dummies' to make them moderately presentable. They do not represent the final arrangement or appearance, either before or after this work as it stands. The whole lot is only lightly Blu-tacked into place and the lattice girders have no visible means of support (yet!).The railway bridge at the other end of the station has also only had temporary girders and fittings previously and looked like it needed a central support structure as well. I have Blu-tacked some supporting girders into place to judge the effect and whether I think the girders look substantial enough. I do have some new Peco girder kits to use to replace the recycled ones that were previously there.The village roads are being laid in card, with various infill pieces of expanded polystyrene being added or bits cut away so that things 'flow' more. It is tedious and time consuming, particularly waiting for glues to set before doing the next bit. At the time of the photos, I had one section still weighed down with locomotives and buses.I will have to look at the car parking in the village: that AEC Merlin is going to have a tight squeeze getting past the parked mini and Austin Atlantic! Edited July 10, 2014 by SRman 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted July 9, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2014 I will have to look at the car parking in the village I'd be a lot more worried if I were driving and RT or RML and encountered diesel locomotives parked in the street!!! I'm afraid I shall have to tender my apologies for August due to being rather a long way away. I wish you a successful meeting. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 (edited) Just a few more pics continuing on from the previous post (and minus the locomotives in the road!) Edited July 10, 2014 by SRman 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 This is much nearer what I had in mind for this bridge. There is still much to do but it's a start. The idea is to open up an area to be able to see the trains, while the arched viaduct section allows only glimpses as the trains pass. The inspiration comes from a rail over road bridge at Oxted, which combines a lattice section and brick arches, although its construction appears little more complex than I am attempting - mine is intended to give the 'flavour' without taking me years to build!The main deck is balsa wood, with Plastruct 'H' section girders, in turn supported by lattice girders made up from four of the Ratio Pratt Truss kits, intended for signal gantries. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete 75C Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 Why haven't I spotted this before??? Must get my eyes tested. Truly superb... Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 Some more work done this evening on the bridge supports and retaining walls. The brickwork is Vollmer embossed card which is actually intended for N scale, but I think looks right for OO.There is much still to do, including some reinforcing around the bases of the walls and also at the joints between cards, probably using balsa wood. I can still lift the whole structure off the layout to get at the interior of the thing.The Blu-Tack is holding things together while the PVA glue sets. Once it is all dry and reasonably solid, I will dress the corner joints and colour the card edges, before weathering it all down a bit. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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