SRman's Current Layout - Newton Broadway

[SRman]

Running the Bachmann refurbished 4 CEP 1522 in L&SE 'Jaffa Cake' livery in multiple (DCC consist) with 7113, an unrefurbished unit in BR blue and grey and 68008, an MLV in 'Jaffa Cake' livery. I know the blue and grey units would all have been refurbished by the time the L&SE livery was implemented, but I can't really afford another refurbished unit ... yet! All three have Lenz Silver decoders and run perfectly well together, as do all of my other Bachmann SR EMUs. This is only a very short video to demonstrate the running qualities.
 

 

[SRman]

My EFE 'Booster' arrived today from Rails, so I immediately set about testing it on DC. While it ran smoothly, it felt a little stiff, so I set it up on the rolling road for a bit over an hour, still on analogue. Anyway, it freed up nicely, so I then fitted a Zimo MX634C - it was set as a 634D but the cab lights didn't work on that setting, so I tried the 'C' trigger (programme CV8=3) - then tried again with the functions and they worked exactly as the EFE blurb said they should, with directional marker lights on F0 and cab lights on F3 and F4.

Running on the layout showed a few minor hiccups with points, where something was snagging in one direction only (that turned out to be a sharp bit on one of the dumb irons), and it didn't like the Peco code 75 3-way points. While the wheel back to backs  were within the normal tolerances, I found it was acting like they were a fraction over-gauge, so set about removing the bogie base plates and tweaking the back to backs inwards slightly, using a micrometer to set them all identically. While I had the base plates off, I also fine-tuned a couple of the pick up strips, which have to deal with a lot of side play in the wheels and axles. 

 

On reassembly, it was back onto the layout where it behaved perfectly. There was one derailment which I put down to my not having put all the wheels on the track correctly in the first place (that'll do it, every time!),then drove it into the engine shed area with the finer scale points, and it negotiated those properly too.

Happy with that, I decided to add the detailing - a coupling hook and steam pipe at each end, then trimmed to clear the tension lock couplings, plus I wanted to change it from having all lights illuminated at each end (directionally). That was a right royal pain to do because the existing lit headcodes are very tight fitting items and took a lot of persuasion to get out of their sockets. There's no danger of losing any of them in normal service, but I did damage a couple getting them out, and lost one in the carpet somewhere, but it is unlikely I'll ever want to put all the illuminated ones back in. It now has just two illuminated discs at each end and the rest are the blanked ones. I may change the painted white marker dots to a glossy grey to resemble lights that are off at some time in the future. 

And that's it, really. The model does look good, and runs well, in spite of a few niggles.

 

I took a couple of photos of it parked in the loco yard, but realised I'd left grubby fingerprint marks on the sides, so had to give it a quick clean and snap another photo, which didn't turn out quite as nicely as the first ones.

 

 

Edited January 15 by SRman
Correcting formatting errors

[St Enodoc]

20 minutes ago, SRman said:

I found it was acting like they were a fraction over-gauge, so set about removing the bogie base plates and tweaking the back to backs inwards slightly, using a micrometer to set them all identically.

What were the before and after values please??

[Gwiwer]

Good to see a Booster at Newton Broadway. 
 

Judging by comments from around the world-wide wait it would seem that the green version of ‘02 (as you and I both have) is the one giving most of the problems. And they are the same problems where ever you look. 
 

Frustrating derailments, no obvious cause but upon close examination there are issues with the wheels. BtB out by a fraction, riding high or not having any vertical play are among the issues reported. 
 

‘01 in blue runs fine on the club test track here. ‘02 has a problem with the wheels on one bogie requiring further examination. The centre set do not sit correctly when placed on glass and the leading set lifts on curves leading to derailments. 
 

I’ll have a word with those nice people I collected the loco from in Camborne last week to see what they say. 

[SRman]

3 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

What were the before and after values please??

 

The befores were anywhere between 14.3 and 14.5 mm (they varied from axle to axle).

The afters are currently 14.30 to 14.39, but I think I might take that down a fraction further, to around 14.25 to 14.30. When I said they were set identically, that was within the limitations of the delicate amount of movement I could achieve on each wheel set.

[SRman]

2 hours ago, Gwiwer said:

Good to see a Booster at Newton Broadway. 
 

Judging by comments from around the world-wide wait it would seem that the green version of ‘02 (as you and I both have) is the one giving most of the problems. And they are the same problems where ever you look. 
 

Frustrating derailments, no obvious cause but upon close examination there are issues with the wheels. BtB out by a fraction, riding high or not having any vertical play are among the issues reported. 
 

‘01 in blue runs fine on the club test track here. ‘02 has a problem with the wheels on one bogie requiring further examination. The centre set do not sit correctly when placed on glass and the leading set lifts on curves leading to derailments. 
 

I’ll have a word with those nice people I collected the loco from in Camborne last week to see what they say. 

 

I had read some of the comments on the other thread, so the first thing I looked for was the bogies being out of square, but mine seems to be OK, with all wheels sitting flat on the track, or table ,or anything else I chose to sit it on.

What I did spot straight away was that the wheels on one bogie were able to move laterally further than the pickups could reach at their extremes, but that was easily fixed. The other bogie was fine in that respect.

But yes, the back to backs were set a bit too wide.

[Typographer]

4 hours ago, SRman said:

Happy with that, I decided to add the detailing - a coupling hook and steam pipe at each end, then trimmed to clear the tension lock couplings, plus I wanted to change it from having all lights illuminated at each end (directionally). That was a right royal pain to do because the existing lit headcodes are very tight fitting items and took a lot of persuasion to get out of their sockets. There's no danger of losing any of them in normal service, but I did damage a couple getting them out, and lost one in the carpet somewhere, but it is unlikely I'll ever want to put all the illuminated ones back in. It now has just two illuminated discs at each end and the rest are the blanked ones. I may change the painted white marker dots to a glossy grey to resemble lights that are off at some time in the future. 

 

Hi @SRman what tool did you use to get the ‘lit’ head codes out of their sockets? (I have to do the same to my malachite CC1).

Thanks

[Gwiwer]

14.5mm BtB will probably cause the wheelset to “ride high” when railed which is what I found. I haven’t had the opportunity to check with fine tools but I suspect the flanges might be preventing the treads from reaching the rail heads. 

[SRman]

27 minutes ago, Typographer said:

 

Hi @SRman what tool did you use to get the ‘lit’ head codes out of their sockets? (I have to do the same to my malachite CC1).

Thanks

 

I used a small flat-bladed screwdriver, but in hindsight it might have been better to use something like a curved pair of forceps/tweezers to push them out from inside the body. That, of course, would mean removing the body first. 😉

[SRman]

11 minutes ago, Gwiwer said:

14.5mm BtB will probably cause the wheelset to “ride high” when railed which is what I found. I haven’t had the opportunity to check with fine tools but I suspect the flanges might be preventing the treads from reaching the rail heads. 

 

Most likely, Rick. Mine weren't riding high but certain points caused problems, either at the blade end or at the frog. It behaves better now, but I am inclined to take it down to the more usual 14.2 - 14.3, if I can move the wheels with sufficient delicacy to suit.

[John Tomlinson]

1 hour ago, SRman said:

 

I used a small flat-bladed screwdriver, but in hindsight it might have been better to use something like a curved pair of forceps/tweezers to push them out from inside the body. That, of course, would mean removing the body first. 😉

 

I'm awaiting my BR Black 20002 with a bit of trepidation now having read through some of the EFE thread and noted the issue of bogies not running true, which fortunately you haven't had.

 

In the course of that I saw a piece by Graham_Muz that pushing out the headcodes from inside the body is the preferable method, if one wishes to change them.

 

John.

Edited January 15 by John Tomlinson

[SRman]

A couple of things from my workbench that are complete, or very nearly so.

These Parkside wagons were started some time ago, and sat on the layout awaiting transfers. I added transfers last night, although I haven't put the tare weights on, matt varnished them today, and they now await some weathering. Eagle-eyed people might notice the missing buffer, which can be seen on the cutting mat nearby: I dropped it while varnishing it! Fortunately, the varnish dried very quickly, and nothing from the carpet stuck to it.

 

 

Also on the workbench, but fairly quick job, are some 3D printed cats from West Hill Wagon Works. One lost most of its tail in transit, so I drilled a hole in its backside and stuck some brass wire into that. Suitable shaped, once painted you'd never know. I have done a black cat with a little white, a black and grey tabby cat, a ginger cat, and my favourite, a tortoiseshell and white female (or calico, as the Americans call it). Anyway, these are now ready to be cut from the trellis supports and planted on the layout.

The reason 98% of torties and torty & white cats are female is the gene for black or ginger is on the X chromosome, so females can get both colours, males (XY) can only get one or the other. We own a tri-coloured male, so in theory he can't exist, but in reality, it means he's probably XXY.

 

 

 

Additional info on tortie males: they occur as 1 in 3000, according to one source. I also found that with the tabby-like markings, cats like Sykes can be referred to as tortie-tabbies.

 

 

Edited January 20 by SRman
Correction and additional info.

[Southernman46]

Looks like he's ? carrying the odd extra ounce there 😁

[SRman]

37 minutes ago, Southernman46 said:

Looks like he's ? carrying the odd extra ounce there 😁

 

He's just big-boned!! 😉😉

😅

[SRman]

I decided to take some video footage comparing three of the sound and speaker combinations I have in Accurascale class 37s. Personally, I would rate the Jamie Goodman one as my favourite, but the others are good. All have their own different features and characteristics.

I edited out the bit where I didn't have 37 608 on the track properly so it derailed as soon as it hit the points. This also means I edited out the swearing! 😁🤪

 

 

[30368]

On 21/01/2024 at 00:52, SRman said:

decided to take some video footage comparing three of the sound and speaker combinations I have in Accurascale class 37s. Personally, I would rate the Jamie Goodman one as my favourite, but the others are good. All have their own different features and characteristics.

 

Interesting video SR Man. When I was Resident Engineer at Crewe in the 1980s, class 37s were overhauled at that location. I mention this because most of my diesel loco expereince was on the SR so 4SRKTs, 8LDA and shunter engines so I do not claim to be an expert on the EE 12CSVT engine. In my opinion the first example sounded very accurate although I guess a hot start is an advantage. Of the next two cold starts the last loco sounded ok. In contrast, the first (or middle loco of the three) sounded as if it needed new injectors! Perhaps it was very cold...By the way, with the cold start loco's the air pressure regulator (or perhaps vacuum reg if fitted) would not have allowed you to move that quickly.....

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

Edited January 22 by 30368

[SRman]

9 hours ago, 30368 said:

 

Interesting video SR Man. When I was Resident Engineer at Crewe in the 1980, class 37s were overhauled at that location. I mention this because most of my diesel loco expereince was on the SR so 4SRKTs, 8LDA and shunter engines so I do not claim to be an expert on the EE 12CSVT engine. In my opinion the first example sounded very accurate although I guess a hot start is an advantage. Of the next two cold starts the last loco sounded ok. In contrast, the first (or middle loco of the three) sounded as if it needed new injectors! Perhaps it was very cold...By the way, with the cold start loco's the air pressure regulator (or perhaps vacuum reg if fitted) would not have allowed you to move that quickly.....

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

 

That's great information and very informative. The middle one (37 609) does have a function to bypass the cold start (F15), but I rather like this one. Yes, it was probably recorded on a very cold day, but then I really should have dense clouds of exhaust smoke and the odd flash coming from the exhaust ports. 🤣

A lot of model timings have to be shortened. I was almost going to edit the video to skip some of the cold start, because too much of it would be boring for those watching the video.

 

[SRman]

A pussy cat greets a potential hotel guest. The hotel staff really need to sweep those steps!

[30368]

8 hours ago, SRman said:

A lot of model timings have to be shortened. I was almost going to edit the video to skip some of the cold start, because too much of it would be boring for those watching the video.

 

My comment re timings was not really serious - rule 1 and all that! Keep up the good work.

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

[Southernman46]

The problem with model railways is that the wheel flanges are expected to do things they never would at 1:1 scale such as steer the wheelset through curve / straight track transitions and crossing noses whereas in the real world this is done via conicity and the use of cover check rails acting on the back of the flange. Rarely also on models do curve have transition between the circular curve and the straight which the would do on the real thing. Consequently our models have to get that bogie rotation / wheels down evenly / back to back stuff generally right to ensure the "leading flange through curve outside rails and crossing noses go in the right direction and don't climb over the rail and derail.

The CC70's have an arrangement which enables it to take 2nd radius curves with that very ling bogie and yet have the loco sit right down on the bogies without 'orrible gaps like some models we've had in the past - as someone pointed out in the actual EFE thread it has perhaps just been let down by some minor manufacturing issues which can be corrected by a bit of modelling.

[SRman]

4 minutes ago, Southernman46 said:

The problem with model railways is that the wheel flanges are expected to do things they never would at 1:1 scale such as steer the wheelset through curve / straight track transitions and crossing noses whereas in the real world this is done via conicity and the use of cover check rails acting on the back of the flange.

 

... snipped ...

 

 

True, with a few curious exceptions. Up until the 1970s/80s, Queensland Railways used vertical rails and flat wheel tread profiles making the wheels a cylinder with flanges rather than part of a cone with flanges. Riding the long distance trains in the 1970s was a very rough affair, especially where the track was not maintained well. I believe there were one or two other railways in the world like that as well. Why? I don't know but it seems rather odd in view of the rest of the world using the angled/canted rails and coned treads, and in light of their experiences over many decades. 🙄

[St Enodoc]

8 minutes ago, SRman said:

 

True, with a few curious exceptions. Up until the 1970s/80s, Queensland Railways used vertical rails and flat wheel tread profiles making the wheels a cylinder with flanges rather than part of a cone with flanges. Riding the long distance trains in the 1970s was a very rough affair, especially where the track was not maintained well. I believe there were one or two other railways in the world like that as well. Why? I don't know but it seems rather odd in view of the rest of the world using the angled/canted rails and coned treads, and in light of their experiences over many decades. 🙄

That's QLD for you...

[SRman]

My slightly early birthday present from Mrs SRman arrived today from Rails. She bought me the Deluxe Titfield Thunderbolt pack. I haven't added the figures to it yet, preferring to run it in a bit first. There is a tight spot in the running, which has freed up a bit but it needs some more running yet. It is still a smooth and powerful beast, in spite of its size. I did fit the folded chimney to the coach, though.

It is a lovely model and a good bit of fun.

 

 

 

[saxokid]

22 minutes ago, SRman said:

My slightly early birthday present from Mrs SRman arrived today from Rails. She bought me the Deluxe Titfield Thunderbolt pack. I haven't added the figures to it yet, preferring to run it in a bit first. There is a tight spot in the running, which has freed up a bit but it needs some more running yet. It is still a smooth and powerful beast, in spite of its size. I did fit the folded chimney to the coach, though.

It is a lovely model and a good bit of fun.

 

 

 

Had nice catch up on your progress SRman..

cheers neil

[SRman]

19 hours ago, 30368 said:

 

My comment re timings was not really serious - rule 1 and all that! Keep up the good work.

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

 

That's fine, because you were absolutely correct. 😊

 

I have watched various YouTube clips of cold starts on all sorts of locomotives, and some of them go for a lot longer than the models start up. I do like the compromise that Jamie Goodman adopted, though. It seems a good balance between absolute realism, and being tedious while waiting to be able to drive the model.

Thanks for the compliment, too. 👍