Sticking Plastikard to....

[Polar Star]

I am detailing a 7mm resin coach body with styrene sheet (actually, Evergreen strip or Plastikard sheet from Slaters). Early attempts used Deluxe Rocket Rapid and there have been some failures where the styrene has come away from the resin. Similarly, some joins between styrene and brass etch are failing with the styrene peeling away from the brass should the brass "move or flex" while handling the body.

 

I have thought of using epoxy adhesive applied to the styrene after sanding the styrene bonding surface to give some grip. An alternative could be to attach styrene sections to the resin with superglue and then to insert brass pins through the styrene and into the resin... clearly this is not going to work when styrene has to be attached to brass etch (for example the compartment screen in corridor coaches).

 

What method of fixing styrene to resin and to etch brass is going to be secure in the long term and, specifically, through assembly of the model where handling tends to induce movement within the body?

 

thank you for your thoughts and suggestions, Peter

 

 

 

 

[Andrew F]

Questions I'd like to know the answers to too Peter. I can only offer a few suggestions and possibilities as I've not worked with resin before. What I'd do is leave these details until last in the build if possible to prevent handling disturbances and let the coats of paint/lacquer really seal things in.

I've had a good bond result between Aluminium and styrene (Evergreen) strip by using Deluxe Materials R/C glue dilluted with water and a drop of washing up liquid, letting capillary action work the length of the strip ; rubbing the excess rubbery glue off afterwards with a finger and cocktail stick. I've used this method too to attach brass grille surrounds to a brass bodyside (my soldering skills have yet to evolve). I try and avoid cyano unless there's no other choice and exopy is also difficult to work without making a mess on a thin strip of styrene. I've often wondered if it's possible to thin epoxy resin down to the extent where it could be used as a cappilary action glue; probably not

Perhaps it's possible that plastic weld will stick styrene to resin, or maybe Butanol would do the job. I hope there's some more experienced replies to your problem

 

Cheers

 

Andy

[Rumblestripe]

The best solution to sticking plasticard to metal that I have ever found is to apply superglue to the metal surface and a plastic solvent (e.g. Mek-Pak) to the plasticard. I've never tried gluing anything to to resin but I can't see why it wouldn't work on that too. The theory is that superglue needs a perfect mating surface for the best results and by applying a solvent to the plasticard you get a much better contact area. Failing that I would try epoxy resin (I always prefer 24 hour formulations rather than the 5 minute versions).

[Phil Traxson]

Plasticard to brass I'm not sure about but for plasticard to resin I use Evo-Stik impact, using either a sharpened matchstick or a cocktail stick to apply and spread a thin bead on each surface. It must be a very thin bead on the plasticard or it will attack it and show on the outside of the join. Follow the instructions on the tube i.e. put it on both surfaces to be joined, leave it a couple of minutes until touch dry and bring together, I also use the same method on resin to resin joins. I have display models (which also run on our group layout) on my tradestand that are built like this and are showing no ill effects after 10 years of being knocked about in transit, and handled by customers, most of them have plastic floors and roofs with resin sides. I have noticed that when spraying with my prefered 'Halfords' primer that the joins sometimes soften slightly whilst the paint is wet but harden up again as the paint dries.

[dibateg]

I agree with Phil , I've used Evo-Stik impact for years and it seems to be the best solution. The glue has changed over the years, and for a while it was not so good, but the most recent stuff I've had is more like the old formula and is a lot better. I've also used Loctite 480, which is a rubberised black superglue, normally used for bearings I believe, effective but very expensive, and I'm not sure how much it would tolerate flexing.

 

Hope this helps, and good luck with the project Peter.

 

regards

 

Tony G

[halfwit]

I've used 'Zap-A-Gap' superglue for attaching resin and plasticard to brass with good (so far) results on my 4mm diesels, making sure that the brass is clean beforehand. I should point out that this was small detail parts (i.e. sandboxes and toolboxes), not large overlays.