34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Just had a little indoor rain. One of the unions on a supply pipe to our shower has 'started' and is leaking. This is one of those units that has a dial style control on the 'wall' (actually a tiled partition that forms one side of the shower enclosure) and it is behind this that the union has failed. (There's no doubt about the location as by means devious I can see into the void behind the partition from underneath using a mirror, however there is no way of reaching in from this location unless someone with a two metre long twin elbowed arm is available?) So, it must be possible to remove the Aqualisa dial faceplate, but I have never seen it done. With this out there may be a fighting chance of repairing the union without having to break out any of the tiles is my hope. Anyone know how before I start at it with the Birmingham screwdriver? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 It will depend on the model, but the one we had, you pulled off the control knob and then stripped it down in line with this drawing. I'm sure you will be able to find a similar drawing for your own model on the Aqualisa site. http://www.aqualisa.co.uk/parts-store/Controls/A-control-product/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 5, 2011 Author Share Posted January 5, 2011 Yay, just found their site. Winder if our model will be on it as it is past a dozen years old. Thanks for the info. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted January 5, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2011 Most shower models follow the principle of removing the control knob (usually a grub screw) and then the face plate simply unclips, just remember that screwdrivers and tiles don't make good bedfellows, I use something plastic to prise them off. You should be able to access any unions from this point, seems odd for it to leak after such a long time have you had a change of pump or water pressure? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 No, the unit is exactly as installed, and has had a dozen years daily (and up until now totally reliable) use; so I feel we have had good value. Been told by a friend this morning that some of the flexi pipe fittings do eventually give way and that it may be advisable to renew all the connections while the unit is out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonB Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 We had a similar problem with an Aqualiser shower unit similar to the one you describe. The hot water feed side screwed connection sprang a leak immediately after fitting a new Combi-boiler, which supplies water at (near) mains pressure. Our shower unit was about 20 years old and we replaced it with a modern similar model, Aqualisa do operate a "complaints / claims" service, and despite the age of the unit, sent us a helpful (local) engineer who advised the new unit, and ( after being assured that we were not claiming off them or their insurance) got us a hefty discount. The old unit had been fed by hot and cold header tanks, and was NOT recomended for use on mains pressure, not because of the unions, but the because mixer body was in two sections. The replacement was a single piece. Ours is also "buried" in the wall, and the unions were pig to access, the tiling having been done after installation. I was fortunate to have a few spare tiles (never throw anything away!!!) and cut out enough to access the unions, then made good and re-tiled. If you are still in trouble after getting at and tightening the unions, a call to Aqualisa might help. One last point, it took about 3 weeks for the de-humidifiers, supplied by our house insurer, to dry us out, the leak was a steady drip, for about 4 days before we realised that we had a problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Thanks for that. The system is fed from loft header tanks, presurised by a pump, nothing changed since frst installed. Not yet had an opportunity to do anything to investigate, but we know for sure that this is the first malfunction, as the storage below is where we keep bog rolls etc, and we would have noticed very quickly. I had only replenished the bog roll supply about an hour before, following a shopping run... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony_S Posted January 6, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2011 When it was time to replace our age expired non pumped shower mixer one of the plus points for me was that the Aqualisa Digitial Quartz (exposed) model I chose has "no concealed pipes". The mixing is done in the pump unit and the supply to the shower head travels down the inside of the rail that the holds the shower head. I was concerned that the output from the pump is a push-fit connector but it seems to be fine. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 We have two of these fed by a high pressure pump. As I fitted both (assuming the same model) I can tell you the way in is to remove the "maker's" tag from the front. This is only pushed in and should prize out with a stanley blade - may be harder is the installer used some sealant! Behind it is a small grub screw that will release the dome and that will give you access to 4 more screws and you are in. We had the same 'leak' problem water in the stud wall and finally through the hall ceiling a real mess. It has taken over 18 months to get it all fixed and the place redecorated. Everything creaks and groans where it never used to. The only good thing is that it was clean water. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Removing the dome, excellent that accords with the diagrams. Playing safe on this job as it is non-urgent, and awaiting a response from my insurer as to whether they feel the ned to inspect before I set about it. Looking at the site I have figured out a way to put in a concealed access door from the dry side and all out of sight. So if tiles are coming off to enable the job, I know exactly where. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonB Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 When I removed my tiles, I used my Dremel to shift the grout, thus preventing damage to the adjoining tiles when levering-off the ones to be removed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 When I removed my tiles, I used my Dremel to shift the grout, thus preventing damage to the adjoining tiles when levering-off the ones to be removed and you can even purchase special degrouting burrs for the Dremel (or any drill) that work quite well if you have a steady hand. If you don't have a steady hand and let it wander off line it can soon make a mess of the adjacent tiles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony_S Posted January 7, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2011 and you can even purchase special degrouting burrs for the Dremel (or any drill) that work quite well if you have a steady hand. If you don't have a steady hand and let it wander off line it can soon make a mess of the adjacent tiles. I purchased my Dremel as part of a special offer that included the tile cutting kit. Little did I know at the time how useful it would be when I had to cut out square holes in the bathroom tiles. Also the depth stop attachment from the tile kit has been useful when I've had to rout out a slot underneath baseboards when I've forgotten to make a slot for turnout motors! Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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