Improving Tension Lock Couplers

[Linesman]

Sorry if I'm covering old ground here chaps. I did a forum search, but it didn't turn up much.

 

All my stock is equipped with 'narrow' tension lock couplings (as supplied on recent Bachmann models).

 

While they are quite effective in coupling one vehicle to another, and can be automatically uncoupled 'hands off' using fairly basic kit, they do look pretty awful, especially on the front ends of locos.

 

I had considered removing the hook part of the TL coupling on locos, which gives some improvement, but the spacing between vehicles is still very unprotypical.

 

If my eyes were better and my hands steadier, I would probably go for scale 3-links with screw couplings on locos, but I'm willing to forego some realism for ease of operation.

 

I had considered Kadee couplings as it seemed I could just swap out the TL for one or other of the Kadee types in the NEM socket, but further research seems to indicate that the NEM sockets are not as standard as one would wish (particularly in regards to hight above rail - even on models from the same manufacturer).

 

So, it seems my choices are: -

 

a ) stick with TL (and maybe chop the hooks off the loco couplings)

 

b ) Use Kadees (but which type?)

 

c ) Use some alternative that I am not aware of (please don't suggest Sprat and Wrinkle as I have been there and done that - life's too short)

 

d ) Bite the bullet and get some strong magnifing specs and go for 3-links and a wee shunting pole.

 

Any suggestions from the congregation are very welcome.

 

Steve

[Highlandman]

You could stick with tension lock as there are several tried and tested methods of uncoupling them including magnetic. For an idea look at this old thread Magnetic Uncoupling For Bachmann Couplings

 

Kadees i think would offer you a more prototypical operation, it would also make it easier to split rakes of vehicles or to lift an individual vehicle from a rake. Again magnets can be hidden under the track or can be retro fitted to existing track through the use of delayed action magnets on top. As to the type you need, how long is a peice of string. Most of the NEM plug ins will line up well with new stock. Bachmann seem to have got over the problem of different height coupling pockets. Older stock can be converted with the ubiquitous #5 coupler or any of the range. Just make sure you use one of Kadees gauges to check heights th en there should be no problem.

[Linesman]

Thanks for the input Highlandman.

 

I'm gravitating more and more to Kadees and will invest in a gauge and will buy some couplings for testing shortly.

 

Seems like the best compromise to me.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

The truth of it is that there is no commercially available autocoupler that really does the job on traditional 4W wagons. The Dingham coupler is nearly there, but just not quite close enough for me to spring the money; give this system a good look, it may be to your taste. Buckeye style couplers are excellent for corridor coaches where buckeyes were used in reality, a reliable autocoupler that actually resembles the prototype coupler, now that's a win. But I cannot convince myself that they suit the typical 4W wagon, if anything they are more intrusive than the miniature tension lock. Now, Bachmann's version of the miniature tension lock can be made into an efficient magnetically actuated uncoupler using the Brian Kirby (BK) method. There's a bonus too if using Kadees on coaches, the Kadee magnetic uncouplers will also actuate uncoupling of BK modded tension locks.

 

... the spacing between vehicles is still very unprotypical. ...

And this is where the NEM mounted tension lock may be readily modified to good effect. Take the couplers and pockets off the vehicle, separate couplers from pockets. Crop the front of the pocket off and shorten the prongs, so that when reassembled the bumper bar is in the same plane as the buffer heads. (I crop the pockets with a light pair of snips, the slight crushing action deforms the pocket enough to positively retain the truncated coupler prongs.) The amount to trim off varies by vehicle as not all buffers are the same length. The wagons now buffer up when pushed, but buffer locking is prevented on curves, and will still go round 24" radius; (the smallest I use, in yard locations and the like) and when the train is pulled the buffer faces have about a 2mm, scale 6 inch, gap between them which looks very good indeed for a loose coupled train.

[Linesman]

Hi 34theletterbetweenB&D.

 

A lot of info to digest there, but some great ideas on shortening the tension lock coupler.

 

Thanks for taking the time to post that.

 

Maybe I'll take a second look at modifying the TL coupler.

[Theakerr]

Repeat of what 34theleterbetweenB&D does and variations thereof. On a set of Bachman iron ore wagons I have used Roco couplings. Still a bit large but do reduce the wagon gap to gap distance to a realistic length. Since these run as a fixed consit and as an experiment on the three wagons at the front of the consist (about 20 wagons) I have used the cast on plastic hook with three link couplings. Somewhat to my surprise they work and are strong enough to support the full train load including instant on off operations. Also, on the front of some locos that I use for reverse running I just have a thin wire and use the hook on the wagon or coach to latch onto the wire.