alangr Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 I am using Lenz kit and am posting this here as I am trying to use Kaydee couplers with uncoupling macros in TC. I have fitted a loco and a few items of stock with KD#20 couplers - in NEM pockets. When all is perfect, i.e. when uncoupling is done on a test track with carefully aligned couplings, all works pretty well. But after travelling around a circuit uncoupling becomes a nightmare! I have already 'solved' two problems where things were working as they should have been. The first was a bulk tipper wagon and the KD coupling was missing the thin horizontal wire/spring that runs across the coupling so that the coupling did not return to the normal/middle position after uncoupling or being over a magnet. I have not found the wire/spring in the packet so I guess that this coupling is dead unless they are available separately like the small sptings in the coupling knuckle itself - are they? The second issue was a coach bogie coupling that refused to work properly - also sticking in a position away from the normal/centre. I traced some of this to the fact that the plastic mouldings under the coach were exceessive in parts and were catching the shank of the coupler and so making it stick. It is still not quite right but very much better. So, what I am querying is whether I may be missing something obvious here. I am hoping to be able to set up shunting schedules using uncoupling macros and have achieved the desired effect (thanks John (Dew) for the pointers!) but the uncoupling part simply refuses to work as it should. It would seem that with very free-running stock uncoupling can be something of a problem. For example, weighting the tipper down with a (quite substantial) load did make things work better; the knuckles seem to attract magnetically when over the magnet and with light stock this is enough to stop the uncoupling. OK, I have gone on a bit here but I am hoping that someone wiith more experience of these things can provide some guidance. Am I alone in having problems or what? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 Try putting a small piece of sponge between the chassis and axle to create a small amount of drag Edited for typo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 That missing flat spring. With the Kadee installed in a flexibly mounted coupler pocket I don't believe it is necessary. One of mine lost this spring, but with the head superglued centred on the shank functions perfectly well, both coupling up and on track magnet uncouplers. The tip about a little axle drag on light vehicles is a good one, also eliminate any ferrous axles and tyres on the vehicles that you expect to do the auto position uncouple with. The coach coupler mechanisms quite frequently need to be 'worked over' to get them really free moving as I think you have already realised. Once all fouling or scuffing parts are smoothed off, a little powdered graphite helps maintain performance. I recently had a Bach mk1 coach displaying occasional reluctance to uncouple from any Kadee equipped loco. That Kadee worked perfectly well in any other vehicle including other Bach mk1 coaches, and the exchanged unit displayed the same problem on the coach where the trouble first appeared. On taking the bogie off , the underside hook which takes the spring at the back of the coupler yoke had broken off, so it was some lack of centering force which was upsetting the uncoupling action. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alangr Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Hmmm...interesting idea; thanks smokebox, I'll try that.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 The tip about a little axle drag on light vehicles is a good one, also eliminate any ferrous axles and tyres on the vehicles that you expect to do the auto position uncouple with. Even a steel body weight can move a free running vehicle in some cases, which is something else worth checking at the same time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alangr Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Hi 34theletterbetweenB&D Well, as far as the flat spring is concerned my coupler certainly is not working without it (and does not seem to ; but I will keep on trying. And the comment on ferrous axles/tyres is also something I had not thought about, thanks. Yes it is a Bachmann coach that is causing a problem - but one end only. The spring seems to be fitted OK and I have used some KD 'lube' (graphite powder) to try and ease things but have yet to win the centring battle completely. Thanks for your comments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 Well, as far as the flat spring is concerned my coupler certainly is not working without it (and does not seem to ; but I will keep on trying. I think what he's suggesting is that you now glue the head centrally so that it doesn't pivot at the head, then it will move the coupler bar to the side rather than just the head when it needs to go delayed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 Packets of Kadee NEM couplers should come with a little tube containing some knuckle springs and a couple of the head springs. As for the Bachmann coach, assuming that it is a Mk1, check that the shank of the coupler isn't dragging on the bufferbeam. On these coaches the bufferbeam comes down a bit (as in the prototype) and can foul the coupler mechanism - a little bit of filing will correct it. The 'attraction' is likely due to the steel weights and/or axles being attracted to the magnet and so pulling the wagons together. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 If you know which vehicles will be uncoupling (eg. loco or specific coach/wagon), then there is an alternative approach. With a HO Kadee, its not particularly hard to make the coupler open on command from a DCC decoder function output. You need to put a flat on the end of the arm which is normally pulled by the magnet, drill a tiny hole in that, and then fix a rod back underneath the vehicle. Attach a magnet to the end of the rod, and arange a cylindrical electromagnet to pull the magnet forwards. This opens the coupler. It works fine in OO; the McKinley Railway has a shunter with that fitted; I've driven the McKinley briefly, using the shunter to pull passenger stock clear of the terminus and leave the stock in the carriage sidings. Its only necessary to pull one coupler open (on the loco) for it to uncouple from a rake of coaches. For extra brownie points, use an ESU LokPilot, Zimo (any), Lenz (I think Silver/Gold) or CT decoder. Those can be set to automatically perform the "Kadee Shuffle" from a function key press. - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alangr Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Thanks for all the replies. The 'bells and whistles' bit with a 'function' approach to uncoupling looks fun - but I will leave that for a while until much else is sorted; it is a great idea though. Yes, I do have the small tube that came with the couplings and (having gone to the layout to look), yes there is a straight spring as well as a small coil spring. It was so fine that I had not noticed it before; thanks, Adrian. And, yes, I have aready shaved the bufferbeam moulding somewhat but it may need a touch more to complete the job. OK, I now see the idea about gluing the coupler. I may have a go at this if I can't free things up to work otherwise. I guess I will need a magnet to hand when fitting these couplers in order to check just how much of each piece of stock is ferrous. With this and some sponge maybe I can get things going as they should. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BR60103 Posted May 8, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 8, 2011 Alan: I've only had to replace one of the centering springs so far, but it took 2 tries. The first time I really mangled the spring with my tweezers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alangr Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 David Thanks for the comment; I guess the Optivisor and patience will be required as the spring is really small and the job will be fiddly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 I don't think it has been mentioned in the thread, there is a small secret to handling the tiny springs on Kadee, both the centring and the knuckle spring, and that is to fit a sewing cotton thread through the spring centre before fitting, leaving it there until in place and simply pull away, no lost springs, much easier to handle them....... Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 The NEM type just have a straight wire spring so the thread tip will not work with them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alangr Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 Yes, the thread/cotton tip is a neat one; springs have a habit of springing, I find, and the cotton will keep them in place (once threaded). But, as has been pointed out, it has to be eyes and patience with the straight spring wire. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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