dibateg Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 Thanks Jim - the kit rods are fine Andreas, like any etch lamination, they just need careful finishing to get a tidy result. Sidetracking the topic? Not at all, Andreas - it is here for discussion. Best Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Hi Tony and Jim, sidetracking the topic again. You said that you aligned the hornblocks of the tender without a jig. Since I don't also have a jig and the instructions are really "fuzzy" at that point can you please explain how you did it? Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Andreas, From memory, I think it was just a case of centring the hornguides in the slots and checking that the axles were square to the frames when tacking the second hornguide in place. The fold-out tabs on the hornguide take care of getting the height right, so it is only a matter of judging when the guide is in the middle of the slot. Precise placement in the fore and aft direction is not too critical as there aren't any coupling rods to worry about, only the brake blocks, and I deliberately designed in a sensible clearance between these and the wheels so that absolute precisin is not a requirement. Regards, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 To make the cylinders demountable, I removed the top flange of the backing plate and soldered a 10 BA nut to the topside of the cylinder mounting tab. This allows the securing screws to be fitted to underneath. I'm trying to get the chassis as complete as possible, so that it can be sprayed before fitting the wheels. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 A 3-cylinder WD 2-8-0? LOL I can't see on the above where the nut is? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted May 14, 2014 Author Share Posted May 14, 2014 It's in the shadow inside the frames where the left hand cylinder is Jeff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Spotted now, thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 Saturday evening, not out on the town ( yet ) so onwards.. I wasn't happy with the positioning of the motion bracket, with the outer plate being outside the running plate, once added, it should look like it's top is behind the running plate flange. I should have checked the positioning before I added the running plate. So I cut the brackets out with the disk cutter and repositioned them further inboard. Also the top fold of the bracket was visible just below the running plate edge. I didn't like that, so added a strip of 5 thou brass that gives the flat appearance of the prototype. The outer bracket plate was then soldered over the top. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 (edited) I'm beginning to suffer from "Dibateg" withdrawal symptoms Where has that WD gone to ??? Regards Bob Edited June 10, 2014 by Silverstreak Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 Morning all, a week in Majorca, and a week working away, garden and then some weathering jobs have delayed progress. The chassis are both rolling with valve gear and with a few hours to spare I decided to roll the boilers etc. All these units are etches in 22 thou brass and I was a little daunted that I would be able to form them. Geoff Holts advice is good, I rolled the components cold initially - and the boiler and smokebox was no problem using the GW 10" rollers. The firebox was tricky, once the initial shape was formed , the reverse curve to the waist would be like trying to form a spring. So as my exploding gas torch has not been replaced, I resorted to my plumbing blowlamp outside on a brick, just heating the lower sides and letting them cool. I don't like annealing sheet really, 'cos it can distort the sheet if you don't get the heat evenly spread. However all was well and I was able to form the reverse curve using 15mm steel rod and the curvy bit of some ogee skirting board. I'll add a pic to illustrate. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Try using a Hot Air Gun/Paint Stripper tin any joints or seams wire the boilers and add the heat on the lowest setting it works a treat, leave the boiler wired and add the boiler bands in the same way use wooden cloths pegs if needed to hold anything in place. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 Thanks Pete - do you know, I think that's the one tool that I don't have! As promised, here's how the firebox waist was formed, obviously my hands are missing as they are holding the camera! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 I spent the day on and off fitting the various wrappers to the end plates. Here I've been using copper wire, twisted tight to pull the wrappers tight to the formers for soldering. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Did you get a hot air gun at the weekend or have you used an Iron to join them? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Did it with an iron Pete, I must try the hot air gun method sometime.... Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Seeing the chassis units reminds me of the etching fault where the steam pipe castings fit. Somewhere along the way between the first and second sets of artwork, the half-etched recesses for the bottom ends of the steam pipes ended up being etched right through, thus removing any support for the castings. You will need to put a piece of scrap etch under the running boards before you finish off the smoke box saddle assembly. (For anyone building a 2-10-0, this problem was corrected.) Regards, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Thanks Jim - I shall cover that when I get to it. Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted June 21, 2014 Author Share Posted June 21, 2014 With parts just placed together , and still requiring cleaning up, cabs and boilers are now made. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 (edited) Looking good......but a bit shiny for a "dubbie". can anyone show me a link to who sells these kits? I've Googled them but get nowt near. Edited June 21, 2014 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 (edited) Looking in the G0G Product Directory, there are three manufacturers of WD 2-8-0s: Roxey Mouldingswww.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/686/7l18-wd-austerity-2-8-0/ Northants Model Railway Supplieswww.nmrs-models.co.uk/ogauge/Locomotives/Page%202.html Just Like The Real Thingwww.justliketherealthing.co.uk/wd-280-austerity-o-gauge-kit-with-tender-p-193.html?cPath=5 so you have a choice! David Edited to correct link to Roxey Moulding 2-8-0 My apologies. Edited June 23, 2014 by Isambarduk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 The Snowdon ones are now with Roxey Mouldings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 David, Of the three, the NMRS one is, I believe, the original Wagon & Carriage Works kit, having passed through several owners in the mean time. It was the many shortcomings of this kit that caused me to design the Snowhill one. I can't comment on the JLTRT one, having not built it (nor would I want to), but it did miss some opportunities with its resin boiler to do some things that I couldn't do, like properly recessing the safety valves and feed valve into the cladding. It doesn't have the offset in the front section of the coupling rods, which must make the clearances behind the crosshead questionable. It does have the correct wheelbase, but then getting the brake gear in between the oversize finescale wheels is much trickier (which is why the Snowhill (now Roxey) one is slightly longer, although only a purist with calibrated eyeballs would actually notice). Regards, Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 (edited) Nearly £450 though? And another £170 for wheels? 7mm steam outline kits have shot up in price in the last two years. Yet Heljan can produce an entire model for under £500, all wheels, two motors, finished and lighting, moving fans etc? So........I either start saving, again, or wait for HJ to do it........could be a long wait. Edited June 22, 2014 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 You could go for the economy version with it's ( white metal ) slide bars, one of the worst locos that I have had the misfortune to build, so at least you have got the choice of 3 nowadays. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 Agreed...but £450? Look at MMP stuff and then tel me it's not a high price? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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