The Derby Line, Four Track LNER J6

[Miss Prism]

 

[dibateg]

Thanks chaps -

 

Peter  - the oil boxes are integrally cast.

 

I would say the sideplay is about 1mm at the moment on all axles. If I can reduce that I will.

 

Regards

Tony

[Guest Isambarduk]

versine.gif

 

Precisely!  And this will show you how little axle sideplay you really need in 7mm Fine Scale; for a six-coupled loco on 6' radius curves you need no more than to provide for working end float because there is so much 'slop' between wheel and rail in 7mm Fine Scale.  And remember that a MR 0-6-0T has a longer fixed wheelbase than an LMS pacific, so it doesn't depend on the type of loco. 

 

Bogies and trucks also need no more than working end float in their frames, the issue comes with fouling the main frames, cylinders, brake gear and so on.  For eight or more coupled locos and for radii of less than about 6', axle slop might be necessary to persuade a loco to negotiate curves without derailing.   

 

David

Edited February 24, 2018 by Isambarduk

[Nick Gough]

Thanks Richard - it's taking me a while to get back from this flu, I seem to be very sleepy.

I'm baffled by one or two things on this loco, the smokebox saddle doesn't seem quite right, I think it should have a flange all the way round... The sanding rod should have a crank behind the drop link for the reverser, I have no detail on what that actually looks like, I can't find anything in the kit for it.

P1040799.JPG

Sorry, I didn't see this post until today or I would have put these photos up earlier.

I attach them now for interest.

[dibateg]

Splendid - thank you Nick! I wonder where that pipe goes to, that passes over the sanding crank? Have you a photo of the rear side of the forward boiler support? There is something there to rear of it and on the running plate - a strengthening web or such like - I've not been able to make it out.

 

Thanks again!

 

Tony

[Nick Gough]

I hope these help?

Offside:

Nearside:

The pipe:

And a few others:

 

I'm sure you realise that these are from 5900 Hinderton Hall.

[dibateg]

You are an absolute star! Thanks Nick, that's really helpful! I was going to see if I could photo our local Hall on the SVR, but it is in too many pieces apparently the other nearest is at Tysley, but you'd need to make special arrangements to see it.

 

Thanks again

Tony

[Nick Gough]

You are an absolute star! Thanks Nick, that's really helpful! I was going to see if I could photo our local Hall on the SVR, but it is in too many pieces apparently the other nearest is at Tysley, but you'd need to make special arrangements to see it.

 

Thanks again

Tony

You're very welcome.

I should be at Didcot again next week. So if there's anything else you need to look at let me know.

[dibateg]

I've spent half a day grinding and cutting the underside of this engine to get around 4' curves, so I think we are there. The front of the cylinders have to be carved unfortunately. I like the way some of the pipes are tidily hidden by the reversing shaft. The snow has kept me indoors for 3 days, so I've made good progress. Despite some minor issues, I do enjoy doing the JLTRT kits, I hope that they return in some form.

 

The ATC pick up would be mounted off the rear of the buffer beam, but I've had to cheat and put it on the bogie as it was clouting the bogie frame on curves.

[dibateg]

One thing missing from my kit is balance weights, does anyone know of a source or drawings that might help?

 

Thanks

Tony

[steve fay]

They should be included, my set was missing from my kit as well so I pinched the ones from my modified Hall kit.

An email to Pete might help or if some one has an unbuilt kit you could measure from

[Hal Nail]

Was the ATC pick up in the kit already? I need a few but keep forgetting to look for a source at shows so not sure what options are about.

Edited March 7, 2018 by Hal Nail

[BWsTrains]

I have one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Kurlash-Diamondeb-Pointed-Foot-Dresser-Nail-Files-Diamond-Deb-/281397283233?var=&hash=item418495c9a1:m:m4TRd6yHVGRGi1STq8vja4w, which are very thin, and yet broad enough, and diamond coated so cut easily. they do fit between slidebars even in 4mm scale.

I have some Corundum powders in range of grades from my telescope building days and had been thinking to glue to a decent thin, even flexible substrate to make a convenient grinding tool.

 

Haven't gotten round to it, probably been done here (RMWeb), everything else has. Comments please

 

PS (edit) I'm enjoying working thru this topic hence the very late comment to this side point.

Edited March 7, 2018 by BWsTrains

[dibateg]

Hello Hal -

yes the ATC pick up was in the kit. How many do you need?

 

Tony

[Hal Nail]

Hello Hal -

yes the ATC pick up was in the kit. How many do you need?

 

Tony

Technically 4 although one would be for a prairie which I’ve been building for over 25 years now so probably not urgent!

[dibateg]

25 years? Time it was finished mate! Mine are usually done in 5-6 weeks - although I am doing it full time!

[dibateg]

We had a sunny day! I was actually able to start on some of the weathering jobs at last!

 

[dibateg]

I'm on a push to get the Hall finished, but a couple of track tests have thrown up problems with the bogie. There has been a lot of grinding away material underneath! Fortunately, it's not that visible from above. I've also moved the bogie forward about a mill and a half since the photo was taken. The tender is from Randolph. I've still not been able to get balance weights for it..

 

In the meantime I made up the backhead - an enjoyable mornings work. This loco has an exhaust steam injector, I now know to add the extra pipe down from the manifold:-

[dibateg]

4967 will be returning later in the year for final assembly after painting.

 

Next up is 10001, the other twin and I'm washing up again to remove any residue from the moulds.

 

One of the cabs is for 10000, and in the past, a call to Laurie would have a replacement quickly in the post. So I had to file, scrape and emery off the extra vents on the cab roof. I've left a little ledge at the end to avoid damaging the rain strip. That was carefully removed last.

[dibateg]

Although I checked the kit carefully I still didn't spot the missing bogie outer end frames. I'm now on a hunt for them, I might have to fabricate them up:-

 

It's a bit of a JLTRT fest at the moment and yes, its a white out outside..:-

 

10001 didn't have the resistance banks in the cab, so they were cut off with a junior hacksaw, and some new panels made up from plasticard. It made a monumental mess. Hopefully I'll be able to tidy up the bulkhead a bit more...

 

The lamp irons in the kit were not quite right for the ones on the corners, so they were made up from brass strip and mounted on 0.6mm wire. The black marks are stains from Loctite 480, my superglue of choice. 10001 had extra handles on the doors at the end. I like these bit of engine picking.

[dibateg]

I might have located some end frames, I'm keeping my fingers crossed. The generosity of fellow modellers can be remarkable.

 

10001 had a different hornblock lubrication system on one of the bogies at the end, so I wanted to replicate this. I chopped off the nicely moulded little boxes and made up the pipework. I also added the spring protectors. The steps were in the wrong place, so I've taken them off and put them back on again.

 

The roof vent was changed from a grill to a set of louvers at the No1 end, so this is a test piece made up from plasticard.

[dibateg]

I do like making the JLTRT diesels, one thing I don't like though is the reliance on butt mounting some of the detail components. In my experience, these items quickly get knocked off, I'm as ham fisted as anyone, superglue is just too brittle for the task. I usually make a spigot of some sort. In this case 0.6mm wire for the bogie front steps, the wire is glued into holes drilled into the bogie frame. Once mounted up - you can't see it. You can see the hole for the lower step drilled in front of the sand box.

[dibateg]

D602 is heading off for a new home on Friday - I've grown rather fond of it!

 

Meanwhile - progress on 10001 bogies. Delrin chain drive - the sprocket next to the gearbox has to be cut down. Slaters plunger pick ups. There will be wiper pick ups on the driven axle. Tube soldered to middle axle bearing to stop it rotating ( thanks Nick Dunhill ) for the spring. Sitting on rusty accommodation wheels at the moment...

[dibateg]

I've been pretty busy catching up with weathering and spray jobs, now that we have had a good few days. Also a trip to the York show and East Yorkshire.

 

There is a job I've been putting off on the roof of 10001. The No2 end changed to accommodate the Spanner train heating boiler. This meant carving off the second vent with big files and fitting the white metal cover. Also moving the riveted strip. As usual mucking around with resin creates an unholy mess. The vacuum was on standby...

 

It was also time ( after cleaning the dust off ) to deploy the little used cross slid on the GW riveting tool. One of those tools that is little used, but great when you need it.

 

 

And there we are, there is another vent to add, and it will all look better once painted... I hope.

[dibateg]

It would be nice if these builds all went perfectly, that's the impression readers might get, but there are days when things go horribly wrong. I thought it might be a good idea to get the sides attached to the roof, and when I did my Class 24 a few years ago I used the thinnest Rocket superglue. I should have remembered how uncontrollable that was. It all started off reasonably well and this thin stuff grabs quite quickly and I re-enforced that with some medium along the join. But then matching up to the cabs again, one end had splayed.... and was solid..... Then followed a tense half hour ( with colourful language ) trying to get the joint apart. I managed to break free some of the side, the boiler end was stuck fast. The only way was to attack it with a razor saw from the inside before the medium glue went off. This ended up with the saw, me and anything else I handled covered.. Anyway eventually I cut far enough through from the back to break the side free without any visible exterior damage. I cleaned up with big files and managed to salvage the tongue and groove at the radiator end and fixed in place the side with 5 minute epoxy. The rest was left free and will be fixed when I attach the No2 cab.

 

There endeth the nightmare.. So lessons: 1. Don't use thin superglue, it goes off too quickly 2. Screw the sides to the floor to align them when glueing the roof. I did that last time but not this... why? Who knows...

 

Sometimes sh*t happens, the answer is to plan a way out and don't panic.

 

 

 

 

Sharp eyed viewers will notice the side has sprung in slightly, that will line up when the cab is attached as it's not glued this end. I made up the little brackets that attach the water pick overflows to the roof, they looked a bit plain otherwise. One has pinged off during the wrestling match.